peppermill question

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Woodnknots

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Carrollton, VA, USA.
Stupid question, really.

How dry does your blank really have to be to make a peppermill? 8%, 10%, 20%? If it's got to be bone dry, I'm pretty limited to woods I can use without laminating boards. If it's only got to be seasoned (15% or so), that opens up lots of other possibilities.
 
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The drier the wood the better is my sugestion. Damp wood will change as it dries out after turning and drilling. That will cause may problems with the fit of any hardware. [:)]
 
Another issue other than warping of the wood is that some of the moisture might seep into the pepper or salt, causing it to clump and attach itself to the inside of the mill. You might consider drilling small, microwaving the wood until dry and then drilling with the correct size. I know that the drilling is the worst part of mills, but it would allow you to dry it faster.
 
Well for what it's worth peppermills are an item I sell a lot of (over a 100) through several galleries and speciality stores here in Michigan where wood by nature is <u>about</u> 12% moisture content even after having been kiln dried. There is no fit in a mill that should be so tight that you have to worry about swelling or shrinking. Good luck and have fun turning.

Ron

www.woodfan.com



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I ruined a beautiful piece of Maple burl last fall by not knowing enough about this. My wood measured 8 - 10% in the rough. After I cut it into a 3x3x12 block for turning, it measured 12 - 14%. I thought I was good to go. I drilled for mechanism, cut the top, and finished the base before stopping for the evening. When I came out to finish up the next afternoon, my cylindrical base was egg-shaped in cross section.
After a good cry, and then cuss fit, I measured the moisture content. It had gone back to 8 - 10% like the bigger rough cut block was.
I still have that "thing" in the short box, to remind me to not get in a hurry.

Lynn
 
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