Pencil Turning

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SergeantMike

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Joined
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I use a 0.5mm pencil a lot in my work, in fact it is preferred over pen, mostly so people (including myself) can read my writing. My issue is, and the reason I am asking this question, is that the kits that I have found leave a lot to be desired. Example the eraser is the size of tic-tac and lasts about as long, the lead seems to jam if you even think a slightly bad thought about the mechanism and then it snaps quite easily. Does anyone have a premium level 0.5mm pencil kit that is of higher quality than the ones you get at Rockler's or Woodcraft?

Thank you
Mike Sergeant
 
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Mike, I can to the opinion that none of the .5mm kits seem as good as the old Pentels. I still have and use a few Pentels from the 1980s. I decided I like the 2mm kits, make quite a few of them.
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SergeantMike said:
the eraser is the size of tic-tac and lasts about as long, the lead seems to jam if you even think a slightly bad thought about the mechanism and then it snaps quite easily
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I've been using Pentel 0.5 mm pencils since they first appeared on the market more than 40 years ago - your description of the faults of 0.5mm kits apply to Pentel as well (at least, in my opinion).

Like Duncan, I've redressed Pentels to replace the chintzy plastic with pretty wood. There are several references in the IAP library, and quite a few posts on this subject. The key is to have a step drill - which is easily made from a length of 1/4" mild steel rod and a drill bit.
 
I loved the Pentel pencils from the 80's but now they are crap. I have purchased pencil mechanisms I think from Bear Tooth Woods. I got both 0.7mm and .5mm. I have not used the 0.5mm yet. I also got some 0.7mm from Exotic blanks. I put these is regular twist of bolt action pens. Not all pencil mechanisms work with all pen kits and not all mechanisms are the same. I have not tried putting a smaller mechanism in a 2mm kit.
 
Forget the step drill. Dismantle the Pentel and mark the wood a little longer than the plastic body, I add about 1/4". Then mark the centers and rough turn the blank round to 3/4". Insert in your collet chuck.

Next drill with a 17/64" drill bit. Drill 4 5/16" deep. I use a jobber but to start and then switch to a 6" long jobber bit. Keep the bit and wood cool by backing out the drill often and drilling on a slow speed. Now flip the blank and drill the nib end of the blank with a 5/32" bit. Stop as soon as you feel no resistance on the bit. Both bits available at my local hardware store. No special bits needed.
 
Another option would be the Schmidt pencil insert that replaces the Parker type refills in twists. Available in 0.5mm, 0.7mm, and 0.9mm
 
I use a sketch pencil, mainly because I have large hands and use pressure when writing and always break the pencil leads. I keep it sharp with a small piece of sandpaper on a wood slice (just like I had to use in my HS draftsman class in 1970, prior to computers). I also have my old Berol mechanical pencil from the same time period, that I use from time to time, but I much prefer the hand feel of my sketch pencil. Paul
 
Thank you everyone for your responses. I really do like my pencil I made from Cherry burl and Cacao wood (Iong story on that one safe to say it is literally a unique piece of wood) and I made it with a slimline pencil kit from Rockler and have been less that satisfied with the mechanism. I don't know if any of these inserts can be used in a slimline kit or am I just stuck with an pencil made from beautiful wood with a lousy mechanism.
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carlmorrell said:
Mike, I can to the opinion that none of the .5mm kits seem as good as the old Pentels. I still have and use a few Pentels from the 1980s. I decided I like the 2mm kits, make quite a few of them.View attachment 240779View attachment 240777
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I've been wanting to try those 2mm kits. How well does that built in sharpener work? Seems like it would be messy.

Sadly, they don't make many things like they used to. Unlike mass manufacturers, at least we take pride in our work rather than just profits.

Also, is that fordite!? It looks awesome! That stuff is hard to get ahold of. I would imagine it's very brittle, too.
 
The sharpener does not work well at all. I sharpen the way I learned when I took drafting a million years ago. I roll and rotate on a piece of paper.

#2 is fordite! Many people have nightmares with it. I started with a bench belt sander. When I did get it on the lathe all I used there was sandpaper, no gouge or skew. I have made 4 so far like that, all came out fine. No surprises. However that was a sweet piece, none have looked as nice as that one.
 
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