Pen blank squaring jig

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Mike D

Mike D

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2005
Messages
296
Location
Battle Ground Washington
This is my version of a squaring jig. It's made from MDF for the base, scrap pieces of ASH for the handle and support pieces, 1/4" threaded rod, "T" track and common hardware. If you folks are interested I can add a material list with measurements in the library. It's quite easily built and it works very well. Thanks for viewing and all comments, questions are welcome.
 

Attachments

  • 20121008_210319.jpg
    20121008_210319.jpg
    92.3 KB · Views: 908
  • 20121008_210254.jpg
    20121008_210254.jpg
    34.2 KB · Views: 654
  • 20121008_210338.jpg
    20121008_210338.jpg
    105.5 KB · Views: 1,236
  • 20121008_210527.jpg
    20121008_210527.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 797
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Mike D said:
This is my version of a squaring jig. It's made from MDF for the base, scrap pieces of ASH for the handle and support pieces, 1/4" threaded rod, "T" track and common hardware. If you folks are interested I can add a material list with measurements in the library. It's quite easily built and it works very well. Thanks for viewing and all comments, questions are welcome.
Click to expand...


I would be very interested in materials list and plans!

Thanks

Larry
 
Mike,
Yours is a very nice looking jig. The one I made used an old mandrel rod, but the bolt you used will work fine. For anyone who has not used a jig like this...DO SO! I have not so much as picked up my cutter type barrel trimmer since making a jig similar to this (based on design in the Library). I do use the specialized barrel sander after applying the finish.
Steve
 
Great idea and I like it but I have a question how do you account of the different inside diameters when squaring the end of the blank? With a barrel trimmer you have different size lead in rods to keep the blank square to the cutting edge.
 
What if you used a keyless chuck from a broken drill and fixed it where the bolt comes out. You could use those transfer punches in the chuck then
 
Thanks Larry I will post the list later today.

Thank you Steve and Rob. Rob I found that if you push too hard on the blank you do get a little deflection but if you feed it lightly it works great and you don't get deflection or heat build up.
 
triw51 said:
Great idea and I like it but I have a question how do you account of the different inside diameters when squaring the end of the blank? With a barrel trimmer you have different size lead in rods to keep the blank square to the cutting edge.
Click to expand...

I used NYLON bushings that are pre-drilled for 1/4" and depending on the inside diameter of the tube I take the bushings for the kit and turn down the nylon to the diameter of the small end bushing that goes into the brass tube. Wood would work just as well. The nylon bushings are about $.30 at the hardware stores and I keep the turned bushings in the bag with the pen kit bushings for whatever kit they go to. They turn very fast and over a short period of time you'll have all the nylon bushings you'll need. The only drawback with Nylon is don't force the blank or heat will build up and deform the nylon but then again you don't need to force the blank into the sanding disk to true it up. I cut my blank after drilling to just slightly longer than the brass tube and use 5 minute epoxy to glue the tube to the blank. That way you don't have very much to sand.
 
Last edited:
keithkarl2007 said:
What if you used a keyless chuck from a broken drill and fixed it where the bolt comes out. You could use those transfer punches in the chuck then
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. My only concern would be the size of the jig would have to be much larger to accommodate the chuck. I do like the idea of the punch set though. Give it a shot and let us know. More than one way to skin the cat!
 
I like the looks of that jig. I made one, looks ugly, but works basically the same way.

For the rod, I'm using the 7mm rod that came with my worthless PSI squaring jig.

I mounted a small block of wood on the strip that slides in the channel (don't know proper terminology without more coffee:biggrin:) I drilled a 7mm hole through the block and glued a 7mm tube inside. The 7mm rod from the PSI rhomboiding jig goes through the tube. Blanks mount on the 7mm rod. I can use all of my sleeves on the rod since that's what the rod was made for. Works great. I find that the length of the hole in the block really adds stability to the rod that I wasn't able to get with the PSI tool. The downside is that I can't fit very long (Zen) tubes between the block and the sanding disc. I'll have to work something out there.
 
Ulises Victoria said:
Would this work with large pens like the Emperor or El Grande?
Click to expand...

Why not? see below

triw51 said:
Great idea and I like it but I have a question how do you account of the different inside diameters when squaring the end of the blank? With a barrel trimmer you have different size lead in rods to keep the blank square to the cutting edge.
Click to expand...

I don't understand the need to "fill" the hole in the tube. Providing your rod is square in the first place, all that's needed is to keep a little pressure on the top (& it doesn't have to be much) of the blank, & it stays square. I actually rotate the blank as I hold it on the rod, I don't use sleeves, bushings, spacers etc for different size blanks.
Hope that helps
David
 
Curly said:
This is what I made. Transfer punches swap easily to match the tubes. You can buy or make the clamp to your own preferences.

Pete

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner because I can't reach my desktop!
Click to expand...

Nice Pete!
I use the same setup but instead of a toggle I use a flat board that tightens down on top of the punch using two screws. Like this (yours) a lot better
 
Last edited:
InvisibleMan said:
dexter0606 said:
raar25 said:
Sanding does a nice job and I like the fixture but it is slow. I did 38 pens last night with a mill in 50 minutes.
Click to expand...

Can't imagine this would be slower than a mill. You basically just slide the blank off, turn it 180 and sand. :confused:
Click to expand...

With virtually no chance of breaking anything. I pucker up the ol' cheeks every time I have to use the mill.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I haven't gotten the mill out in so long now I'm not even sure where it is!
 
Mike D said:
keithkarl2007 said:
What if you used a keyless chuck from a broken drill and fixed it where the bolt comes out. You could use those transfer punches in the chuck then
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. My only concern would be the size of the jig would have to be much larger to accommodate the chuck. I do like the idea of the punch set though. Give it a shot and let us know. More than one way to skin the cat!
Click to expand...

Actually, it wouldn't have to be that much larger. From the photo, it looks like your threaded rod is about 1.5" above the jig plate. A 3/8" drill chuck from an old drill would fit in that space.
 
alamocdc said:
Mike D said:
keithkarl2007 said:
What if you used a keyless chuck from a broken drill and fixed it where the bolt comes out. You could use those transfer punches in the chuck then
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. My only concern would be the size of the jig would have to be much larger to accommodate the chuck. I do like the idea of the punch set though. Give it a shot and let us know. More than one way to skin the cat!
Click to expand...

Actually, it wouldn't have to be that much larger. From the photo, it looks like your threaded rod is about 1.5" above the jig plate. A 3/8" drill chuck from an old drill would fit in that space.
Click to expand...

It isn't the height I was referring to, it is the distance from the disk that the vertical structure would have to be to accommodate the key-less chuck and the pen blank. On my disk sander it would be prohibitive. On my table saw with a sanding disk it would work great and there is enough table to support the larger base. I may have to give it a shot though. Always looking for better ways of doing things. Thanks Billy!
 
Kretzky said:
I don't understand the need to "fill" the hole in the tube. Providing your rod is square in the first place, all that's needed is to keep a little pressure on the top (& it doesn't have to be much) of the blank, & it stays square. I actually rotate the blank as I hold it on the rod, I don't use sleeves, bushings, spacers etc for different size blanks.
Hope that helps
David
Click to expand...

I know what you're saying, but the fact that you are rotating the blank
proves that there is a need to take up this slack. If there were truly no
deflection, rotating the blank would be pointless. (or a nervous tic :tongue: )
 
Mike D said:
alamocdc said:
Mike D said:
keithkarl2007 said:
What if you used a keyless chuck from a broken drill and fixed it where the bolt comes out. You could use those transfer punches in the chuck then
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. My only concern would be the size of the jig would have to be much larger to accommodate the chuck. I do like the idea of the punch set though. Give it a shot and let us know. More than one way to skin the cat!
Click to expand...

Actually, it wouldn't have to be that much larger. From the photo, it looks like your threaded rod is about 1.5" above the jig plate. A 3/8" drill chuck from an old drill would fit in that space.
Click to expand...

It isn't the height I was referring to, it is the distance from the disk that the vertical structure would have to be to accommodate the key-less chuck and the pen blank. On my disk sander it would be prohibitive. On my table saw with a sanding disk it would work great and there is enough table to support the larger base. I may have to give it a shot though. Always looking for better ways of doing things. Thanks Billy!
Click to expand...

Uh, DUH! I wasn't thinking along those lines, obviously! Now where is that head slap smiley?
 
NewLondon88 said:
Kretzky said:
I don't understand the need to "fill" the hole in the tube. Providing your rod is square in the first place, all that's needed is to keep a little pressure on the top (& it doesn't have to be much) of the blank, & it stays square. I actually rotate the blank as I hold it on the rod, I don't use sleeves, bushings, spacers etc for different size blanks.
Hope that helps
David
Click to expand...

I know what you're saying, but the fact that you are rotating the blank
proves that there is a need to take up this slack. If there were truly no
deflection, rotating the blank would be pointless. (or a nervous tic :tongue: )
Click to expand...

Not sure how rotating the blank takes up the "slack". I only rotate the blanks 'cos I can, there was no "technical reason" for doing it. I have squared them without rotating, with the same results. IMO (& I'm not saying I'm right) there really is no need for the sleeves. Just throwing it out there to maybe help all those who think they absolutely must have the exact size mandrel shaft when trimming.
David
 
Okay, while we are on the topic. When I use the pen mill I get a bit of an uneven end on the blank. Kind of like a wave around the blank. I bought a new mill thinking it was dull, but got the same result. Mostly doing all WC Euro's. What am I doing wrong except not using my sander?
Getting the sander square both ways is not easy for me to do, is there a trick to it?
Tom
 
I hope the supplied dimensions on the pics provide enough information to build the jig. If not let me know and I'll add the needed information. Here are some basic instructions.

The dimension for the base will depend on the size of the table on your disk sander. Mine is a 12" Delta disk sander and that is what these dimensions are base on.

Cut your base to the supplied dimensions from MDF 3/4" thick stock. Do the same with the ASH or suitable hardwood from 13/16" stock. The larger piece for the handle is cut to the rectangle shape initially.

Position the base on the table of your disk sander leaving a small gap between the disk and the base and determine the location where the Runner for the miter slot will be located. I used "T" track for mine but a hardwood runner will work. Mark it on your base then with a square transfer the lines to the bottom for routing the dado later on.

With the dimensions provided mark for the 2 dadoes on the center ASH piece and route the dadoes.

Dry fit the ash pieces then mark for the 1/4" threaded rod and drill the hole in the LH piece of ash. Next mark the handle location on the RH piece of ASH. Cut the angle and then cut out the handle. I used a 1 - 1/8" forstener bit then sanded the inside of the handle and rounded the edges with 1/8" radius router bit.

Glue and screw the ASH pieces together with the #10 FH wood screws.

Lay the ASH assembly on top of the base, mark and cut the dadoes in the base. Attach the ASH assembly to the base with glue and #8 FH wood screws. Attach the threaded rod to the jig with the 2 nuts and washers.

NOTE: When you attach the ASH assembly to the base make sure the screw location isn't in the location for the dado for the bottom runner.

Route the dado for the runner, I recommend initially routing so the runner is just snug. Drill the base for the runner, mark the "T" track and drill with a #3 drill bit & tap for 1/4-28 threads then attach the runner and lay the jig on the sander and check for horizontal square between the threaded rod and your sander disk. If not widen the dado for the runner a small amount and enlarge the holes in the base to allow for movement of the runner, enough to bring the rod so it's square to the disk in it's horizontal plane. Once square tighten the bolts. I did counter bore the holes in the base for the washers. Next check for square between the rod and disk for the vertical plane, adjust the table tilt to square the rod to the disk. If both planes are square then apply finish if you like and your done.
 

Attachments

  • Dimensioned pic 4.jpg
    Dimensioned pic 4.jpg
    57.5 KB · Views: 303
  • deminsioned pic #3.jpg
    deminsioned pic #3.jpg
    42.4 KB · Views: 414
  • 20121008_210338.jpg
    20121008_210338.jpg
    105.5 KB · Views: 360
Looks good Mike. After seeing all these jigs...Was wondering if there is a standard distance from the sanding disk to the bolt or punch? Is it 1/32th, 1/16th, 1/8th?
 
Kretzky said:
Not sure how rotating the blank takes up the "slack". I only rotate the blanks 'cos I can, there was no "technical reason" for doing it. I have squared them without rotating, with the same results. IMO (& I'm not saying I'm right) there really is no need for the sleeves. Just throwing it out there to maybe help all those who think they absolutely must have the exact size mandrel shaft when trimming.
David
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I thought you were saying you needed to rotate the blank, which
would mean that the blank wasn't approaching the sanding disc at 90º.

As for the sleeves, they take up the extra room and would probably
help stabilize any movement while sanding. Or it could be the same
reason a ballplayer puts on his lucky socks before a big game.
 
Great looking jig.Mine is just all squared up peices.Dosn't look near as good.But works well.I'm wondering,what grit sand paper do you use?Mine is a little slow and burns easy.Maybe useing to fine a grit.Thanks for sharing so well,and this too.
 
CharlesJohnson said:
Great looking jig.Mine is just all squared up peices.Dosn't look near as good.But works well.I'm wondering,what grit sand paper do you use?Mine is a little slow and burns easy.Maybe useing to fine a grit.Thanks for sharing so well,and this too.
Click to expand...

Charles I use 80 grit on my sander and it works very well, no burning. If your getting burning I would switch to a courser grit. With burning comes high heat and you are probably weakening the bond of the tube and blank and could cause cracking in the blank.
 
Quality Control and Risk Management

Kretzky said:
Ulises Victoria said:
Would this work with large pens like the Emperor or El Grande?
Click to expand...

Why not? see below

triw51 said:
Great idea and I like it but I have a question how do you account of the different inside diameters when squaring the end of the blank? With a barrel trimmer you have different size lead in rods to keep the blank square to the cutting edge.
Click to expand...

I don't understand the need to "fill" the hole in the tube. Providing your rod is square in the first place, all that's needed is to keep a little pressure on the top (& it doesn't have to be much) of the blank, & it stays square. I actually rotate the blank as I hold it on the rod, I don't use sleeves, bushings, spacers etc for different size blanks.
Hope that helps
David
Click to expand...


When the size of the tube is close to the size of the rod, the chance of a "cocked" end is pretty low. As the size differences increase, and/or the length of the tube decreases, the risk of error increases.

For higher investments in components, and higher expectations of customers, there is a higher penalty for errors.

I finish and polish the ends of blanks to assure fine fits when viewed under magnification. Think of the end of a Sierra pen with $50-$75 in components and time. On the other hand, for a friction polished Euro on a run of the mill blank,.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom