Paint Help

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truckfixr

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Aug 19, 2008
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After several evenings of preparation, I clear cast my tubes this morning in my first attempt at a watch part pen. Sadly, the paint I used on the tubes (Krylon) didn't get along with the resin, and shriveled up like scrambled eggs. The paint had plenty of time to cure, as did the CA I used to attach the watch parts.
What kind of paint can I get that won't react this way? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I'd have them powder coated. Or use high temp paint. Some here will offer powder coating service. I've made one steam punk pen and used the high temp spray paint and it worked fine. If I made another I'd have the tubes powder coated.
 
I had the same problem using Testors and Michaels PR. I changed to Rustoleum and haven't had an problem.
 
ive use nothing but krylon lately and have not had any problems. i use the quick dry formulas. i did try rustoleum early on and felt like the paint would never dry.

most of my clear casts have been with white tubes however.
 
Instead of painting the brass tube try staining the inside of the hole in the acrylic blank.
I use either leather dye, wood dye (not stain), or even the dye one uses for your acrylic.
If you take a q-tip and dip it in the dye the hole that is rough from the drill will hold the dye.
Alice
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'm going to experiment by painting portions of a sheet of brass with several different types of paint/nail polish, and clear cast it to see how each one reacts. I'm making this pen for a special lady, and I'm limited to pink.
Thanks again.
 
This is how mine turned out, I'm using the resin from woodturners if that has any bearing. I also painted clear polish over the gears after I CA'd them in place
 

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Instead of painting the brass tube try staining the inside of the hole in the acrylic blank.

This only applies when drilling a coloured resin blank, not when clear casting.

I just made a batch of steampunk blanks and was surprised to see the same thing happen. I have been using the more expensive Rustoleum and haven't had a problem before.

I made some reds, whites and greens this time. Paint had been dried for weeks but it decided to crinkle this time. It actually looks pretty good. It's a nice effect and all of the pens have gone into my selling stock
 
After several evenings of preparation, I clear cast my tubes this morning in my first attempt at a watch part pen. Sadly, the paint I used on the tubes (Krylon) didn't get along with the resin, and shriveled up like scrambled eggs. The paint had plenty of time to cure, as did the CA I used to attach the watch parts.
How did you prepare your tubes prior to painting?
 
I sanded them with 320 grit , then cleaned them with acetone. I'm considering applying a couple coats of medium CA over the painted tubes before I glue on the watch parts. The paint didn't seem to blister under the CA.
 
This is how mine turned out, I'm using the resin from woodturners if that has any bearing. I also painted clear polish over the gears after I CA'd them in place


That looks fantastic!
I used Castin Craft resin from Hobby Lobby since I ran out of Silmar 41 and my new can hadn't arrived yet. My next attempt will be with the Silmar. I don't much care for the Castin Craft. It's a lot more brittle than the Silmar 41.
 
I used 5 drops per ounce. I've used both the Castin Craft and the Silmar 41 lots of times. The Castin Craft always ends up more brittle than the Silmar. The only thing I prefer about the Castin Craft is that it will take a glossier finish.
 
Age is also a factor. Older resin makes for brittler blanks, in my experience. The casting craft may have sat on the shelf for a year, for all we know.
 
That's quite possible Steve. I generally use Silmar 41 from US Composites. They have enough volume that it's generally pretty fresh. I only picked up the Castin Craft because my Silmar hadn't arrived, and I wanted to get this pen done. Needless to say, I'm back to the drawing board.
 
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