Options for wrapping/labeling/casting tubes

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ramaroodle

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Wasn't sure if I should start a new thread as this was part of another thread I started when I was looking into clear-casting but it lead me down this path so I thought I'd share. Wayne, not sure if this qualifies as a tutorial or not but I can redo it when I get to the end of the journey.

I received my pack of ten "sublimation pens" from Amazon yesterday. (It's cool living in Seattle where at 1 am I can order those pens and they are on my porch when I wake up in the morning!) I had no intention of using anything but the tubes. After looking at them I have a better understanding of what is needed. Those tubes are smooth, white and coated by some mass production machine in Asia. I can't reproduce that. I bought a little open-box Canon SELPHY printer for $40 on eBay which was probably a waste of money for my purposes.

So, here's what I've done so far.

I already had some 2"x4" Avery brand address labels (#8163) so I started out with them. I also ordered different Avery label material types. Of the types I ordered these seemed to work the best. When printed they produced a nice, crisp, glossy label.
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Using the Avery app for the #8163 2x4 address labels made the exact sizing and manipulation of these to within a hundredth of an inch a snap, so the wraps are perfectly sized at pi times the diameter of the tube which Alexa takes 2 seconds to tell me.
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The sticker paper is just a full sheet so instead of putting the address labels in the printer I put the Sticker Paper sheet in and the app produces a pdf to print.

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From there I simply cut them out and wrapped the tube. For the best results, the tube should be painted white.

The original rabbit hole goal was to be able to do a "clear cast" style pen. I haven't gotten to that stage yet but I'm thinking that I can either paint the bare tube glossy white and wrap it and then clear cast it or like in this first trial run I just painted the bare wood white and gave it a double coating of my GluBoost finish. I bought a pre-owned Underhill cast set-up from a member that arrived yesterday so getting that to work is the next step. This first test isn't ready for prime time but I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. I wanted vibrant, glossy graphics without breaking the bank and this technique seems to have potential and offer some interesting variations.

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Don't know if this qualifies as a tutorial yet as the goal is to clear-cast but this is what I've done while gathering the tools, materials and skills to do that.

This also gives me another easy method of personalizing a pen or batch of pens with logos. Also, those "sublimation" pens from Amazoo are only $1.50 each so I'm good with harvesting the sleeve and tossing the guts. A 3/8" pen tube slides inside that smooth aluminum sleeve which is perfect and easy to wrap to be made into any of the popular pens using a 3/8" tube.
 
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If you ditch the Avery labels and buy some "weather proof" labels from Exotic Blanks ( smaller quantities) or Online Labels .com (large quantity) you don't have to paint the tube or cost the label, prior to clear casting. Works well for many of us.
 
If you ditch the Avery labels and buy some "weather proof" labels from Exotic Blanks ( smaller quantities) or Online Labels .com (large quantity) you don't have to paint the tube or cost the label, prior to clear casting. Works well for many of us.
Sounds like a plan. However, won't the sublimated ink on sublim. paper yield the best results? It's dark down in this rabbit hole so I need to feel my way around.
 
You'll will definitely need to play with it and see what works best for you. I haven't used that brand of labels but if they work as well as the brand I mentioned above, it will make the process very easy for you.
 
Seems to me there is considerable misunderstanding on this process. It does not include labels.
 
Seems to me there is considerable misunderstanding on this process. It does not include labels.
Understood. The label option is just another method of getting graphics on/in a tube or blank. Labels, sublimation, clear cast. I can see how each of those can be used in certain situations. I want to have the ability to do all of them and then use the one that fits the job.

Tell me if I'm wrong but as I see it we are talking about a few options, all unique in their own way.
1. Use sub. ink on one of those pre-treated Amazon tubes with a 3/8" brass tube inside of it then shrink-wrapping and bake it and apply GluBoost. I don't see a way to put a quality sub. coating on a bare brass tube without a lot of work to powder coat and treat it. Everything I can find says that's a really time-consuming challenge.
2. Wrap a label (of some variety) around one of those Amazon tubes and just give it my usual GluBoost treatment like in my prototype above which would be fine for most bulk or one-off applications.
3. Wrap a label (of some variety) around a bare brass tube, either painted white or not, depending on the type of label (vinyl or clear) then clear cast it.

I can do segmenting, laser engraving, and decal applications now. Just want to be able to "up my game". I'm curious to compare a sublimated and wrapped or clear cast blank to one that has a label.
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You'll will definitely need to play with it and see what works best for you. I haven't used that brand of labels but if they work as well as the brand I mentioned above, it will make the process very easy for you.
Thanks John. Tell me if I'm on the right track. I'm having a hard time figuring out what the benefit is of using the sublimation technique. The labels I'm getting using my HP Envy inkjet photo printer look awesome just the way they are.

The Ptown guy says to use matte labels vs gloss but that is a minor detail. (Just out of curiosity, is there a benefit to putting a layer of GluBoost over the label on the tube before casting it?)

I'm trying to figure out the benefit of the whole sublimation thing. I don't really see how the quality of the cast could look much better than what's getting printed on the labels.
 
I've never used the sublamination process so I can't really compare the two but I do use the weather proof labels. I agree with Fred at PTownSubbie about the Matte labels. If you use glossy in Urethane resin, the air bubbles, even after being compressed in a pressure tank, will leave spots on the gloss. I like the quality print I get as long as the image is at least 300 dpi.

There is no need to apply any CA to weather proof vinyl labels. Just print, stick, and cast. CA was needed over paper Avery labels to seal the ink from bleeding in the paper.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
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