Niche for pen blank cutting tool

[jbg230]

Although I'm new at this craft, it seems to me that there's a niche for a tool that would sit on a bench top, be less than $100 and would cut pen blanks fast, safe, simply, cleanly, and straight. A tool that would avoid the need to have to make jigs, use special clamps/vises, and avoid the need for extra parts like chucks and mandrels.

I guess that even if there was a perfect tool, there would always be variations as to how to get the job done, but I think it's because there is not a great tool, that we see so many turners using different tools, different methods, and different jigs to cut blanks. I'm surprised that one of the Chinese tool companies have not come up with a bench tool that would cut wood with depths of 1 or 2" (not 0.99" or 0.5") that would be marketed to modelers and pen turners.

I guess I wouldn't be thinking this way if I had my table saw always out and available. It's one of the small ones, made to be used at different job sites. It gets stored on a shelf below my work bench. So it would be a pleasure to go from my drill press to a small cut off/chop saw on my work table to the lathe (which sits on my work bench). Currently, I'm using a miter saw and despite all the toggle clamp things I've used to make it work well, I'm not happy with it.
The frustration as I see it is this:
The Proxxon mini saws are either very expensive or do not cut the 1" required depth. Maybe the scroll saw would be worth considering. I've read the chop saw (37160 KGS 80) will cut at least a 1" depth, but the saw is approx. $250
The True Power miter saw looked promising but 29% of the reviews were 1 & 2 stars. Maybe sufficient for pen blank needs however.
Those 2" saws that are around would be perfect, but they don't cut the required depth in one cut. This is a shame since the cut is clean and straight and would cut tubes as well.
There's a 6" inch cut off saw at Harbor Freight, but it only comes with e metal cut off blade. I'm not sure if a 5 1/2" saw blade would work. The arbor on this saw is 7/8" but has some sort of adapter to allow for a 5/8" arbor blade. It only spins at 5,000 RPMs which would allow for a wood saw blade if there was such a blade. Even if a 5 1/2" blade would fit, I'm not sure it would cut to a 1" depth since the saw is made for a 6" blade.
The lathe mounted saw seen in the Penn State catalog looks fine, but the cost just increased for us that don't have a chuck, never mind that you can't use it if you don't have a split bed lathe.

Anyway, it just seems like there's an opportunity out there for a tool company. Proxxon seems to have the best choice for a small power tool to do the job of pen blank cutting fast, easy, and accurate. I just have to start selling lots of pens before the price is validly justified.

I was thinking of just doing it manually and getting that little aluminum miter box with the thin kerf mini miter saw, but even this only cuts up to 3/4".

Certainly there's never only one way to get a job done, but seeing what's available for this step in pen turning (blank cutting) I just see a niche for a tool that would blow away the competition and become the go to method for newbies like me.

 

[Rockytime]

Although I'm new at this craft, it seems to me that there's a niche for a tool that would sit on a bench top, be less than $100 and would cut pen blanks fast, safe, simply, cleanly, and straight. A tool that would avoid the need to have to make jigs, use special clamps/vises, and avoid the need for extra parts like chucks and mandrels.<SNIP>

Lots of ways to cut blanks. Here is my way. My often denigrated HF 9" band saw. Works perfectly, safe, accurate and quick. And not to mention CHEAP.

 

[Edgar]

I cut my blanks on an old benchtop Craftsman 10" bandsaw with a setup similar to Rocky's.

Although I can make nice straight cuts if I take my time, it's not really necessary. The ends of the blank need to be sanded or milled to be perpendicular with the tube anyway.

FWIW, I drill first then cut the blanks to size. If it's a 2-tube kit, I drill then cut one blank (the shorter one if they aren't the same size), then drill the hole for the second tube & cut off the excess. No worries about blowout from drilling all the way through the blank.

 

[Curly]

One solution is to put your table saw on a shallow drawer with full extension drawer slides so it just clears the bottom of your bench top. Pull it out when you need it and push it back when done. If bending over for the few minutes you'll need to cut a blank is uncomfortable then a stool or chair is an option.

Otherwise a handsaw and the vice on the bench works too and is cheaper.

 

[mecompco]

PSI has a cut-off saw that clamps onto your lathe for around $60, IIRC.

Personally, I use a HF portable band saw that I fitted with a stand and table that works great. With a good bi-metal blade, it will cut just about anything, including steel.

Regards,
Michael

 

[leehljp]

There are three ideas in your description that unfortunately in this day and age are almost mutually exclusive, at least two from the other:

1. Accurate (dependably so)
2. Safe
3. for under a hundred dollars

Pick the first two and you got it. Pick the last and something has to give. Byrnes has a very good counter top hobby saw with plenty of features:
Byrnes Model Machines - Table Saw

The problem with most "table top hobby saws" is that they are way underpowered. OK for 1/4 inch balsa wood and such. I had two given to me and they were not even worth keeping for the motors.

I constructed my own saw a few years back and it did much of what you are wanting. I saw another one here recently, somewhat different from mine and better. Not sure who posted it. The next link is mine and I have a couple of more jigs that are not shown there:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/home-made-table-saw-pen-making-3838/

Another link to small tablesaw discussions:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/table-saw-45803/index2.html

I feel your pain. I got into pen turning when I lived in Japan back in 2004. I love woodworking and with limited space living in large cities (Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya), I had to put tools up and take them out - usually a 20 to 30 minute process both ways. So I got into pen turning. I did have a 9 X 12 shed with a full size table saw, 12 inch bandsaw, lathe, 6 x 36 sander, 12 inch thickness planer, 12 inch Rikon lathe, Dust Collector, plus a ton of hand tools and measuring devices. My only easily accessible tool was the lathe. So I made the table top saw for some precision cutting.

Now that I am back home (USA), I haven't used it but thinking about getting it out again. While I was overseas, I bought carbide tipped blades for the saw that had .9 mm kerf and 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm 1.5mm and 2mm kerf. I haven't really looked for them and haven't seen them but I know I have them somewhere.

 

[mark james]

There are three ideas in your description that unfortunately in this day and age are almost mutually exclusive, at least two from the other:

1. Accurate (dependably so)
2. Safe
3. for under a hundred dollars

Pick the first two and you got it. Pick the last and something has to give. Byrnes has a very good counter top hobby saw with plenty of features:
Byrnes Model Machines - Table Saw

The problem with most "table top hobby saws" is that they are way underpowered. OK for 1/4 inch balsa wood and such. I had two given to me and they were not even worth keeping for the motors.

I constructed my own saw a few years back and it did much of what you are wanting. I saw another one here recently, somewhat different from mine and better. Not sure who posted it. The next link is mine and I have a couple of more jigs that are not shown there:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/home-made-table-saw-pen-making-3838/

Another link to small tablesaw discussions:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/table-saw-45803/index2.html

I feel your pain. I got into pen turning when I lived in Japan back in 2004. I love woodworking and with limited space living in large cities (Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya), I had to put tools up and take them out - usually a 20 to 30 minute process both ways. So I got into pen turning. I did have a 9 X 12 shed with a full size table saw, 12 inch bandsaw, lathe, 6 x 36 sander, 12 inch thickness planer, 12 inch Rikon lathe, Dust Collector, plus a ton of hand tools and measuring devices. My only easily accessible tool was the lathe. So I made the table top saw for some precision cutting.

Now that I am back home (USA), I haven't used it but thinking about getting it out again. While I was overseas, I bought carbide tipped blades for the saw that had .9 mm kerf and 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm 1.5mm and 2mm kerf. I haven't really looked for them and haven't seen them but I know I have them somewhere.

Oh to be a fly-on-the-wall in that shop!

 

[jttheclockman]

Edgar hit the nail on the head. Many times unless you are building a blank there is no need in the world that the ends need to be true and straight. Band saw with out any sled will work fine if you are comfortable with your fingers that close to the blade. If not then a sled is the way to go with clamps. Work safe and smart.

As to your table saw. Sounds like it is a small table top. Why not mount on a board and hang some hinges on it and hang on the wall or under a table. Swing up in place and have a steady leg to support it. There are hundreds of examples of how people cut blanks here and different tools and sleds made over the years. Thumb through some of these and choose one or take the idea and add your own touch.

Many many people here have small shops and have to resort to thinking outside the box to make all their tools work. You need to do the same. When buying tools you need to look at them beyond what you want them to do. You need to look at them to see what their full capabilities are and versatility. A band saw will do that more so than a small chop saw. To me a waste of money. Again just an opinion.

 

[jbg230]

Thanks!

Thanks for these replies. Good things to think about. Good suggestions about a pull out drawer for my small table saw or mounting on hinged board! Another project to organize my shop. Good to part of this group. -Jake

 

[MTViper]

There are several 7.25" miter saws on the market that are accurate, inexpensive, and able to cut through a 2x4. Ryobi has one that sells at Home Depot for $89 and B&D has one at Walmart for $68. I have one and love it for pen blanks and bottle stopper blanks.

 

[jbg230]

Well it turns out I purchased one of the True Power mini miter saws (3 1/8") in "Like New" but used condition for $41.00. The darn thing works fairly well for my needs at this point. It's about 12" wide and sits just to the left of my lathe on the work bench. I've cut hardwood and acrylic blanks and with the use a mini bar clamp it cuts nice and straight. It's quick and I really enjoy the work flow since the drill press stands right next to the work table. So cut, drill, glue, square and turn all happen at arms length.
For now, I like that I'm learning to walk before I run. My new 2 wheel buffer system on the lathe has me amazed at my finished product and has made me even more consumed by this great hobby. I love that the possibilities seem endless. Then again so does the need (want) for tools.
I'll be needing a grinder soon and of course a sharpening jig, a band saw so I can cut larger wood than my table saw can manage, maybe I'll start drilling on the lathe so I'll need...
BTW: Thanks again Curly for the suggestion to put the table saw that sits on a shelf under my work bench, on drawer slides. I think this will work perfect. I don't have the wall space to mount it on a hinged board. I look at it all the time now, realizing that sliding it out will be a pleasure. I didn't realize they made heavy duty ones that will support it. I'm putting this on my project list for the shop!

 

[KBs Pensnmore]

Welcome to an excellent forum. If you're short of bench space for the grinder, use full extension runners to mount the grinder on with a drop bolt on the front to lock it in place. When you do get the grinder get a white stone for it to sharpen HSS tooling, the standard grey stones aren't good for tool steel which most decent lathe tools are made from.
Kryn