Newby quest.

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Marnat3

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
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394
Location
St Paul Minnesota
I have received a few very nice blanks from members here that need to be stabilized. I have a hand vacuum pump (mighty-vac) and a jar setup.
Right now I am having a lot of difficulty finding Minwax Wood-hardener local. Is there something else I can use?
what would be the time to be in the vacuum (do I wait till it stops bubbling or longer) and what would be the removal (drying)process. I have a general idea but want to do it right. Thanks
 
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I use Cactus Juice which is a muck better product but also a more involved process. Go to turntex.com to see what is necessary to use this product. Cactus Juice is a product made for stabilizing and Minwax is a cheap method to just get by. The last comment wasn't intended to upset anyone but I've done both and that was the outcome I had. Minwax will make the wood easier to turn but I wouldn't call it stabilized.
 
I guess I really wanted to know more about the process than brand stuff.
I just want to stabilize the few I have kind of quickly so I can turn them.
 
Sorry I wasn't trying to push a particular brand. My point was that I don't consider Minwax stabilizing. Minwax will get you by as far as turning soft punkie wood but you can't compare the final product. It's not comparing apples to apples so to speak. As far as a general procedure submerse the blanks in the solution and pull a vacuum until the bubbles stop. Let the blanks soak 30 min. with the vacuum off to give the wood time to absorb as much liquid as possible. When finished soaking wrap the blanks in plastic wrap so the liquid will not drain from the blanks and let dry. I hope this helps answer your questions.
 
Thanks. I was not taking offense, I just wanted clarification on the process. I guess Minwax is not the way to go then. Just trying to find a simple way for a few blanks.
 
Here is a quick and simple way to stabilize a blank you want to turn in a hurry. If your wood is realy punky or cracked give it a good soaking coat of thin CA. I use Accelerator to speed up the process, but let the thin Ca cure for a minute before using or it will smoke and turn white. If my blank has a lot of cracks or holes in it, I will use thick CA to fill them and wrap the blank tightly in Duct Tape before drilling. This will not turn white when accelerator is added. Drill out for your tubes and coat the inside of the blank well with thin CA again. Run your drill back through the hole to clear it of any build-up. Glue in your tubes. Mount on your lathe and turn round. Coat with thin CA. Every 2 or 3 passes on the blank, recoat with the thin CA. If there are any cracks or holes in your blank, this will bond it to your tube. If the imperfections are large, fill with saw dust and slowley add thin CA. I have been making pen for almost 20 years, and have used this method all the time. If you are making a larger number of blanks, by all means use a better method of vacuum or pressure to save time, money, and to remove any air trapped in the blank. As for the amount of time to leave the blanks under vacuum, wait for the bubbles to stop, release the vacuum, and let your wood sit in the solution for another 15-30 minutes. You can air dry on racks, or wrap your blanks in tin foil so they are not touching each other and place in a toaster oven for 30 minutes at 200 degrees. Put some type of pan under your blanks so it will catch any leakage. There are many other ways to stablelize wood. Look in the library for ideas. I have seen the Min Wax Wood Hardner used for this purpose on single blanks and porous items such as bone before. Jim S
 
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Miniwax wood hardener is hydrocarbon solvent based. If you pull a vacuum, the first thing that happens is that the hydrocarbon solvent boils off (at pretty low vacuum) After the 80-90% of the contents that is solvent passed through the vacuum pump into the space where you are doing this - then you will be able to pull air out of the wood along with any residual moisture.

Miniwax wood hardener is designed for soaking for a fairly long period of time followed by a period of additional time for the solvent to evaporate out of the wood.


You will likely have more success with pressure than vacuum with an organic solvent based material like Wood Hardner --

The CA method will give better results than the Wood Hardener - though I have used wood hardener with log soaks (months) followed by long evaporation periods (also months).

Was not as good as the commercial stabilization processes.
 
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