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RGVPens

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I just joined this happy group! I've never turned a pen...or anything else! My lathe won't even be here for a couple more days.
What is the simplest and easiest pen kit to start out on? What would be the second choice? And where are the 2-3 best places to buy kits? I'll buy a few blanks to start then I'll probably make my own wood blanks. I "assume" wood is the best and easiest to start on...?
Thanks
 
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Wow, those are some really broad questions. I am sure you will get a plethora of opinions, so here are a few from me.

Most turners seem to start with a Slimline, Trimline, Funline, etc. 7mm tube pen kit, primarily because they are relatively inexpensive. (That is what I started with also). In my opinion it is not on the "easy" side of the scale though, because after turning the material left can be quite thin. My second pen style was the Cigar. It is a much heftier pen and it is still pretty high on my list of favorites, especially because the cost is very reasonable compared with some of the higher end kits. The Cigar pens use a 10mm tube. Many of the IAP members will also recommend the Sierra, Gatsby, Monarch, Wall Street, style of pen kits. Their advantage is that they are a single tube design whereas the Slimline and Cigar styles have both an upper and lower tube to deal with. The Sierra style pens use a 27/64 inch tube. They too are pretty cost effective, especially when you can get two pens from a single blank. (I chose the Cigar simply because of personal appeal for the look of the Cigar vs the Sierra). I don't think you can go wrong either way.

As for places to buy kits and supplies, etc. My go to places for online ordering are Exotic Blanks, WoodTurningz, PSI (Penn State Industries), Classic Nib, Rockler, and Turners Warehouse. The only local store (about a 90 mile drive) is WoodCraft, so that is where I go for retail, but they also have an online ordering system. There are a lot of suppliers out there and there is a "Vendor Forums" forum that is a great source for other suppliers.

It is a lot of fun!

Dave
 
Wow, those are some really broad questions. I am sure you will get a plethora of opinions, so here are a few from me.

Most turners seem to start with a Slimline, Trimline, Funline, etc. 7mm tube pen kit, primarily because they are relatively inexpensive. (That is what I started with also). In my opinion it is not on the "easy" side of the scale though, because after turning the material left can be quite thin. My second pen style was the Cigar. It is a much heftier pen and it is still pretty high on my list of favorites, especially because the cost is very reasonable compared with some of the higher end kits. The Cigar pens use a 10mm tube. Many of the IAP members will also recommend the Sierra, Gatsby, Monarch, Wall Street, style of pen kits. Their advantage is that they are a single tube design whereas the Slimline and Cigar styles have both an upper and lower tube to deal with. The Sierra style pens use a 27/64 inch tube. They too are pretty cost effective, especially when you can get two pens from a single blank. (I chose the Cigar simply because of personal appeal for the look of the Cigar vs the Sierra). I don't think you can go wrong either way.

As for places to buy kits and supplies, etc. My go to places for online ordering are Exotic Blanks, WoodTurningz, PSI (Penn State Industries), Classic Nib, Rockler, and Turners Warehouse. The only local store (about a 90 mile drive) is WoodCraft, so that is where I go for retail, but they also have an online ordering system. There are a lot of suppliers out there and there is a "Vendor Forums" forum that is a great source for other suppliers.

It is a lot of fun!

Dave
Thanks for the info Dave! I'm thinking the single tube style pen might be a better "starter" to no have to match two tubes at first. I ordered my lathe and a few things from Penn State, just got a text as to a Friday afternoon delivery. I ordered a few different wood blanks from WoodTurningz today. Still got to order a few misc. items. I'm looking forward to trying it!
 
Welcome aboard Gary, and thanks for your service. Your scrollwork looks great!

Many of the IAP members will also recommend the Sierra, Gatsby, Monarch, Wall Street, style of pen kits.
Yep, this is very true! I would also add the executive (from PSI, Penn State Industries) even though they aren't that popular around here. The kits with a rounded edge (bead) on the hardware are forgiving if you turn the wood slightly too much or too little and the single tube is easier to get some satisfaction with when starting out.

If you want to jump in on a few slimlines, trimlines, or similar due to the cost, there's certainly nothing wrong with that. That's what I did (because that's the "starter' sets are, right?) and can say that the single tube kits are definitely easier to start with than those.

You'll need more than just the lathe itself. Before you get into the money trap, take a look at these threads. They are older, but packed with great info that you really will want to know.
If I had known this earlier
I wish I had known this earlier Part II

As for shopping, you obviously know about PSI already. Exotic Blanks is fantastic and I've had good experience with Turner's Warehouse, too.
 
So I went to Exotic Blanks site and started reading about the Sierra pen. It mentioned 20A bushings, 27/64th drill bit and a "Mandrel shaft A". What is that? I have this one on order...will it work with 20A bushings?

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Complete package includes a Dedicated Mandrel. This set includes a 7mm drill bit, 5 Slimline Bushings (#PKM-BUSH3), the Mandrel Saver Tailstock Center PLUS a basic mandrel (no threads or knurled nut) that works great with your Mandrel Saver. Here's a complete mandrel system for just a bit more than the cost of a new mandrel.
Are you tired of bending your Mandrel and ruining the point on your live center? If so, then this fail-safe live center accessory is for you. Mandrels usually bend when you tighten the tailstock center point into the end indentation of your mandrel. This system solves that problem because your mandrel shaft goes through the hollow live center. Your bushings press against the center with zero pressure on the mandrel shaft. The tube and bushing assembly tightens up by turning your tailstock quill adjustment wheel.
Other features:
  • No need for extra spacer bushing as the system adapts to the length of your project
  • No need for the knurled nut that sometimes gets lost, misplaced or stripped.
  • Adapts to nearly every mandrel on the market with a shaft diameter of .245" or smaller.
 
So I went to Exotic Blanks site and started reading about the Sierra pen. It mentioned 20A bushings, 27/64th drill bit and a "Mandrel shaft A". What is that? I have this one on order...will it work with 20A bushings?
Yes. that mandrel will work. Pretty much all standard bushings are made to slide on to that size mandrel.

FYI: The Penn State equivalent of the Sierra is the Gatsby.
 
Welcome aboard Gary, and thanks for your service. Your scrollwork looks great!


Yep, this is very true! I would also add the executive (from PSI, Penn State Industries) even though they aren't that popular around here. The kits with a rounded edge (bead) on the hardware are forgiving if you turn the wood slightly too much or too little and the single tube is easier to get some satisfaction with when starting out.

If you want to jump in on a few slimlines, trimlines, or similar due to the cost, there's certainly nothing wrong with that. That's what I did (because that's the "starter' sets are, right?) and can say that the single tube kits are definitely easier to start with than those.

You'll need more than just the lathe itself. Before you get into the money trap, take a look at these threads. They are older, but packed with great info that you really will want to know.
If I had known this earlier
I wish I had known this earlier Part II

As for shopping, you obviously know about PSI already. Exotic Blanks is fantastic and I've had good experience with Turner's Warehouse, too.
Thank you, thank you!! I think I will do a few single barrel pens first. And thanks for the reading! I'll go through them in a few min.
 
When you say you'll probably make your own blanks are you meaning making segmented blanks?
It looks like most blanks are 3/4" x 3/4" x 5-5 1/2". I've got a Delta table saw and different woods for my scroll saw work, animal puzzles & boxes. I can cut my own. Not sure if I'll get into doing plastics and stabilizing other woods...but maybe later. I'll stick to the basic stuff for now.

I turning acrylic blanks harder/trickier than plain wood?
 
Ed from Exotic Blanks gave us the scoop on the "B Mandrel" back in June.

Although it can still be found, the "B Mandrel" was introduced many years ago by Berea. It was designed for various large pen kits because the larger diameter (0.291 +0 -0.002 inches) helped prevent flexing/whip at the center of the mandrel while turning. It was used for kits like the Berea "Cambridge" and "Churchill". The beefier mandrel really never took off compared to the standard "A Mandrel".

The "A Mandrel" is often referred to as simply a pen turning mandrel or a "7mm Mandrel". It is 0.247 +0 -0.002 inches in diameter. Since the "B Mandrel" never really caught on, standard "A Mandrel" bushings were made for the larger Berea kits like the "Cambridge" and "Churchill". I'm sure your mandrel is a standard, 7mm, or "A" mandrel. Some turners will swear by using "no mandrel" and just turning between centers. Some turn between centers using bushings and others just turn between centers and use calipers or micrometers to measure as they turn.

As to your question regarding "acrylic" blanks and whether or not they are harder/trickier than turning wood: I use the term "acrylic" loosely as most plastic blanks are referred to as "acrylic" regardless of the type of plastic they are really composed of. Some turn easier than most woods and some are more difficult. In my experience, most plastic blanks made from Alumilite turn readily with standard tools and they polish up like a dream! On the other end of the spectrum are blanks made of Inlace Acrylester. These things are extremely hard and brittle and chip very easily during turning even with sharp tools. I have had the best luck using carbide tools that have a negative rake profile. Of course there are lots of other types of plastic blanks that fall in between. I have been very happy with Rhino plastic blanks. They are made with a polyester resin and are very economical compared with other types of plastics.

Just as with plastics there are many kinds of woods that turn and finish easily and there are those that are more difficult. My favorites include Olive Wood, Cocobolo, Ironwood from the Sonoran Desert and Ambrosia Maple. Although they are very pretty, some very hard woods like ebony's and Lignum Vitae are prone to splitting and cracking. Some of the more exotic and beautiful woods like burls can be difficult to turn because of their grain structure or density. Many turners stabilize their burls before turning. (Stabilizing is a process where the air is essentially vacuumed out of the wood and is replaced with a resin, making them heavier, more dense, and much less prone to chipping, cracking, and so on).

Dave
 
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Ed from Exotic Blanks gave us the scoop on the "B Mandrel" back in June.

Although it can still be found, the "B Mandrel" was introduced many years ago by Berea. It was designed for various large pen kits because the larger diameter (0.291 +0 -0.002 inches) helped prevent flexing/whip at the center of the mandrel while turning. It was used for kits like the Berea "Cambridge" and "Churchill". The beefier mandrel really never took off compared to the standard "A Mandrel".

The "A Mandrel" is often referred to as simply a pen turning mandrel or a "7mm Mandrel". It is 0.247 +0 -0.002 inches in diameter. Since the "B Mandrel" never really caught on, standard "A Mandrel" bushings were made for the larger Berea kits like the "Cambridge" and "Churchill". I'm sure your mandrel is a standard, 7mm, or "A" mandrel. Some turners will swear by using "no mandrel" and just turning between centers. Some turn between centers using bushings and others just turn between centers and use calipers or micrometers to measure as they turn.

As to your question regarding "acrylic" blanks and whether or not they are harder/trickier than turning wood: I use the term "acrylic" loosely as most plastic blanks are referred to as "acrylic" regardless of the type of plastic they are really composed of. Some turn easier than most woods and some are more difficult. In my experience, most plastic blanks made from Alumilite turn readily with standard tools and they polish up like a dream! On the other end of the spectrum are blanks made of Inlace Acrylester. These things are extremely hard and brittle and chip very easily during turning even with sharp tools. I have had the best luck using carbide tools that have a negative rake profile. Of course there are lots of other types of plastic blanks that fall in between. I have been very happy with Rhino plastic blanks. They are made with a polyester resin and are very economical compared with other types of plastics.

Just as with plastics there are many kinds of woods that turn and finish easily and there are those that are more difficult. My favorites include Olive Wood, Cocobolo, Ironwood from the Sonoran Desert and Ambrosia Maple. Although they are very pretty, some very hard woods like ebony's and Lignum Vitae are prone to splitting and cracking. Some of the more exotic and beautiful woods like burls can be difficult to turn because of their grain structure or density. Many turners stabilize their burls before turning. (Stabilizing is a process where the air is essentially vacuumed out of the wood and is replaced with a resin, making them heavier, more dense, and much less prone to chipping, cracking, and so on).

Dave
Great info...Thanks! I might look into some plastics instead of being afraid of them. The Alumilite is a little more expensive, but at 5 1/4" I could get two Gatsby from one blank...?
 
Welcome to the group! While you are waiting for your lathe to arrive, I recommend you watch Mark Dreyer's 10 Minutes To Better Pen Making video series on YouTube. Wood is easier to turn and good for learning your techniques on. The various types of acrylics have different turning characteristics; some being easier to turn than others. Mark Dreyer explains the differences in his video Turning Acrylic With Carbide Tools.

I also recommend you start a turners notebook to record notes, observations, successes, and failures. It will help you become a better turner.
 
Forgot to mention, whenever possible, order replacement tubes with your pen kits. If you mess up the blank, you can start over using replacement tubes instead of buying another kit.
 
but at 5 1/4" I could get two Gatsby from one blank...?
Correct! - Another thing to mention with plastics is that many are translucent. It is advisable to paint the inside of the blank after it is drilled before the tubes get glued in so that the tube doesn't show through. A lot of people just use white or black paint regardless of the blank color while others do some kind of color matching. - Dave
 
It looks like most blanks are 3/4" x 3/4" x 5-5 1/2". I've got a Delta table saw and different woods for my scroll saw work, animal puzzles & boxes. I can cut my own. Not sure if I'll get into doing plastics and stabilizing other woods...but maybe later. I'll stick to the basic stuff for now.

I turning acrylic blanks harder/trickier than plain wood?
Good plan. I cut most of my own pen blanks , buying very few. I focus mainly on segmenting and just getting into stabilizing.
 
Forgot to mention, whenever possible, order replacement tubes with your pen kits. If you mess up the blank, you can start over using replacement tubes instead of buying another kit.
That thought had occurred to me...kind of a "ace on the hole" LOL!
 
Welcome to the group! While you are waiting for your lathe to arrive, I recommend you watch Mark Dreyer's 10 Minutes To Better Pen Making video series on YouTube. Wood is easier to turn and good for learning your techniques on. The various types of acrylics have different turning characteristics; some being easier to turn than others. Mark Dreyer explains the differences in his video Turning Acrylic With Carbide Tools.

I also recommend you start a turners notebook to record notes, observations, successes, and failures. It will help you become a better turner.
I'll watch the videos today. Thanks
The notebook sounds like a great idea!
 
I started out making slimlines and to honest, I think they're a difficult pen to start with. Yes, they're CHEAP but not EASY, IMO. To me the easiest pen to start with would be a Sierra, a little more costly than a slimline but way easier as it only requires one tube. When you're done you'll have a much nicer pen!
 
I just joined this happy group! I've never turned a pen...or anything else! My lathe won't even be here for a couple more days.
What is the simplest and easiest pen kit to start out on? What would be the second choice? And where are the 2-3 best places to buy kits? I'll buy a few blanks to start then I'll probably make my own wood blanks. I "assume" wood is the best and easiest to start on...?
Thanks
Hi,
I started out years ago on the slimline...If you take your time and use a caliper you will do fine...The Slimline is cheap and they will be good practice for you...JMHO...Thank you for your service...
 
I recommend the PSI Gatsby for a first pen, over the Sierra style. Simply because of the "beads". They make the pen more forgiving for the final diameters of the ends of the body. There is also the Gatsby Grande. Similar pen, but larger body with a smaller hole. The Grande takes a 3/8" drill bit, while the regular Gatsby takes a 27/64". Leaves the material a little thicker. Just make sure you get the proper bushings. And I also recommend wood over acrylic at first.

The first three photos are of a Gatsby, the second three are of a Gatsby Grande.


 

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I recommend the PSI Gatsby for a first pen, over the Sierra style. Simply because of the "beads". They make the pen more forgiving for the final diameters of the ends of the body. There is also the Gatsby Grande. Similar pen, but larger body with a smaller hole. The Grande takes a 3/8" drill bit, while the regular Gatsby takes a 27/64". Leaves the material a little thicker. Just make sure you get the proper bushings. And I also recommend wood over acrylic at first.

The first three photos are of a Gatsby, the second three are of a Gatsby Grande.


Thanks! I was going to try a Sierra...but it sounds like the Gatsby would be a better choice. I'll try a couple of those.
 
Thanks! I was going to try a Sierra...but it sounds like the Gatsby would be a better choice. I'll try a couple of those.
I've made a lot of both, and prefer the Gatsby over the Sierra. Of course there are fancier versions of the Sierra that they don't make in the Gatsby. But for learning, you can't go wrong with a Gatsby.
 
For practice I bought a cheap dowel from Home Depot. Cut and Turned a couple then jumped in. Just get started. It's a total learning experience. There are no mistakes. You'll learn something new each and every time.
 
I just joined this happy group! I've never turned a pen...or anything else! My lathe won't even be here for a couple more days.
What is the simplest and easiest pen kit to start out on? What would be the second choice? And where are the 2-3 best places to buy kits? I'll buy a few blanks to start then I'll probably make my own wood blanks. I "assume" wood is the best and easiest to start on...?
Thanks
There is lots of good advice above. Here is my take on your questions:

Simplest and Easiest Pen Kit:

Like others, I think that the single tube pen kits mentioned by others (Sierra, Wallstreet II, Gatsby, Manhattan, etc.) are the easiest to make. On the other hand, the slimline types cost half as much, and you get to turn two separate blanks and assemble them together. Both types of pen kit are forgiving if you cut off slightly too much when trimming/squaring the blanks.

Personally, I would recommend that beginners start with slimline type kits, the cheapest ones available. They take a little more practice to get right, but once you have mastered them, you have mastered many useful skills. (Not much more effort, honestly.) In my opinion, your resulting skill level will be higher than with the single tube pens.

My second choice would be the second least expensive slimline type kit. Why spend the extra money to learn the craft?

(If you must have instant gratification with pens that will impress your family and friends, the fastest way to that would be those single tube pens. They look really good and professional, but much of the "impress" comes from the kit parts and the fact that you made it, in my opinion.)

Where to Buy Kits:

I prefer to buy pen kits at a local Rockler woodworking store, to save on shipping costs. I have ordered from Penn State, but only because many of their kits are sold at my local Rockler store. Sometimes I need a matching pencil kit or a different plating that is not available from Rockler, so I am forced to go to Penn State. Penn State has good people and good support and lots to choose from, but their pen kits are mediocre.

You live in Mission, TX, far from a well-stocked woodworking store, so mail order is your only choice.
-> Start with Exotic Blanks
https://www.exoticblanks.com

What Materials for Learning and Making the First Few Pens:

Yes, wood is best. I always recommend that beginners start with wood. Avoid softwoods like pine and fir.

To make your own blanks, take any board and cut out pieces approximately 3/4 x 3/4 x 5 (or 6) inches. If you are using green (fresh) wood, cut the blank to size, and then let it dry thoroughly for a few months.

(I have made pens from down branches. They look good to start, but you can turn off all the pretty wood and leave only a bland core for your pen. I do better with pen blanks cut from the ends of boards that were bought for other woodworking projects.)

Not Asked: What Single Recommendation Do You Have for a Beginner?

Whichever pen kits you buy, get spare brass pen tubes for it. They are cheap. If something goes wrong, you can still use the pen kit. Just start over with a fresh pen blank and a spare pen tube. Having spare tubes on hand takes so much stress out of pen making, when it is easy to experiment or replace errors, without wasting the pen kit.

You can still damage pen kits during final assembly, but until then - drilling, gluing, milling/squaring, turning, finishing - if you ruin the project, you can easily start over with the same kit. That takes away many of the concerns that beginners can feel.
 
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There is lots of good advice above. Here is my take on your questions:

Simplest and Easiest Pen Kit:

Like others, I think that the single tube pen kits mentioned by others (Sierra, Wallstreet II, Gatsby, Manhattan, etc.) are the easiest to make. On the other hand, the slimline types cost half as much, and you get to turn two separate blanks and assemble them together. Both types of pen kit are forgiving if you cut off slightly too much when trimming/squaring the blanks.

Personally, I would recommend that beginners start with slimline type kits, the cheapest ones available. They take a little more practice to get right, but once you have mastered them, you have mastered many useful skills. (Not much more effort, honestly.) In my opinion, your resulting skill level will be higher than with the single tube pens.

My second choice would be the second least expensive slimline type kit. Why spend the extra money to learn the craft?

(If you must have instant gratification with pens that will impress your family and friends, the fastest way to that would be those single tube pens. They look really good and professional, but much of the "impress" comes from the kit parts and the fact that you made it, in my opinion.)

Where to Buy Kits:

I prefer to buy pen kits at a local Rockler woodworking store, to save on shipping costs. I have ordered from Penn State, but only because many of their kits are sold at my local Rockler store. Sometimes I need a matching pencil kit or a different plating that is not available from Rockler, so I am forced to go to Penn State. Penn State has good people and good support and lots to choose from, but their pen kits are mediocre.

You live in Mission, TX, far from a well-stocked woodworking store, so mail order is your only choice.
-> Start with Exotic Blanks
https://www.exoticblanks.com

What Materials for Learning and Making the First Few Pens:

Yes, wood is best. I always recommend that beginners start with wood. Avoid softwoods like pine and fir.

To make your own blanks, take any board and cut out pieces approximately 3/4 x 3/4 x 5 (or 6) inches. If you are using green (fresh) wood, cut the blank to size, and then let it dry thoroughly for a few months.

(I have made pens from down branches. They look good to start, but you can turn off all the pretty wood and leave only a bland core for your pen. I do better with pen blanks cut from the ends of boards that were bought for other woodworking projects.)

Not Asked: What Single Recommendation Do You Have for a Beginner?

Whichever pen kits you buy, get spare brass pen tubes for it. They are cheap. If something goes wrong, you can still use the pen kit. Just start over with a fresh pen blank and a spare pen tube. Having spare tubes on hand takes so much stress out of pen making, when it is easy to experiment or replace errors, without wasting the pen kit.

You can still damage pen kits during final assembly, but until then - drilling, gluing, milling/squaring, turning, finishing - if you ruin the project, you can easily start over with the same kit. That takes away many of the concerns that beginners can feel.
Well said...
 
I am pretty new myself (few weeks) and I started with Slimline. I soon got bored with the standard slimline and went to slimline with no central band. That might sound complicated for you but it is actually easier than the standard slimline because you have flexibility about the thickness of the middle. It is simple to replace the center ring with a piece of contrasting wood typically fastened to the lower pen body before turning. Having said that I can see why people suggest Sierra under it's various names and I now turn both types. Haven't yet progressed to the bigger pens and in no hurry. I have too many ideas for for pen blanks to worry about that. Segmented turning appeals to me and I have done some but nothing like some here which are amazing. Not sure I will ever be that good! Good luck with the "journey" that you are about to embark on. The people here are great and always willing to help.
 
I did not read all of the posts. Use good quality sharp tools and keep them sharp. That is a separate subject.
SLIMLINES…. Once I got the hang of inserting the twist to the proper position the fun began. Comfort pens are great with or without the grip.
 

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I did not read all of the posts. Use good quality sharp tools and keep them sharp. That is a separate subject.
SLIMLINES…. Once I got the hang of inserting the twist to the proper position the fun began. Comfort pens are great with or without the grip.
Those look awesome! I'm going with Benjamin's Best carbide tools from the start. I can move an insert to the next position a heck of a lot easier/better than I can sharpen a standard tool.
 
There is lots of good advice above. Here is my take on your questions:

Simplest and Easiest Pen Kit:

Like others, I think that the single tube pen kits mentioned by others (Sierra, Wallstreet II, Gatsby, Manhattan, etc.) are the easiest to make. On the other hand, the slimline types cost half as much, and you get to turn two separate blanks and assemble them together. Both types of pen kit are forgiving if you cut off slightly too much when trimming/squaring the blanks.

Personally, I would recommend that beginners start with slimline type kits, the cheapest ones available. They take a little more practice to get right, but once you have mastered them, you have mastered many useful skills. (Not much more effort, honestly.) In my opinion, your resulting skill level will be higher than with the single tube pens.

My second choice would be the second least expensive slimline type kit. Why spend the extra money to learn the craft?

(If you must have instant gratification with pens that will impress your family and friends, the fastest way to that would be those single tube pens. They look really good and professional, but much of the "impress" comes from the kit parts and the fact that you made it, in my opinion.)

Where to Buy Kits:

I prefer to buy pen kits at a local Rockler woodworking store, to save on shipping costs. I have ordered from Penn State, but only because many of their kits are sold at my local Rockler store. Sometimes I need a matching pencil kit or a different plating that is not available from Rockler, so I am forced to go to Penn State. Penn State has good people and good support and lots to choose from, but their pen kits are mediocre.

You live in Mission, TX, far from a well-stocked woodworking store, so mail order is your only choice.
-> Start with Exotic Blanks
https://www.exoticblanks.com

What Materials for Learning and Making the First Few Pens:

Yes, wood is best. I always recommend that beginners start with wood. Avoid softwoods like pine and fir.

To make your own blanks, take any board and cut out pieces approximately 3/4 x 3/4 x 5 (or 6) inches. If you are using green (fresh) wood, cut the blank to size, and then let it dry thoroughly for a few months.

(I have made pens from down branches. They look good to start, but you can turn off all the pretty wood and leave only a bland core for your pen. I do better with pen blanks cut from the ends of boards that were bought for other woodworking projects.)

Not Asked: What Single Recommendation Do You Have for a Beginner?

Whichever pen kits you buy, get spare brass pen tubes for it. They are cheap. If something goes wrong, you can still use the pen kit. Just start over with a fresh pen blank and a spare pen tube. Having spare tubes on hand takes so much stress out of pen making, when it is easy to experiment or replace errors, without wasting the pen kit.

You can still damage pen kits during final assembly, but until then - drilling, gluing, milling/squaring, turning, finishing - if you ruin the project, you can easily start over with the same kit. That takes away many of the concerns that beginners can feel.
I support getting extra tubes. They are definitely needed especially if you are trying something new. As a routine when I buy a kit that I have not had before I always add extra tubes to the order, especially if I can't got to a local store to correct my mistakes.
 
Those look awesome! I'm going with Benjamin's Best carbide tools from the start. I can move an insert to the next position a heck of a lot easier/better than I can sharpen a standard tool.
I have only ever used carbide tools for turning. These days new carbide tools come out all of the time, some with turning characteristics similar to standard HSS tools. For example, Hunter Tool Systems, eg. Hunter Osprey #2 which I use for segmented bowl turning. This was an expensive departure for me and still learning how to use it. Being on a budget initially I bought cheap starter tools and then replaced the carbide with NR carbide from Easy Wood Tools, which I find really easy to use. I had no problem in fitting them to the tools that I bought.
 
I have only ever used carbide tools for turning. These days new carbide tools come out all of the time, some with turning characteristics similar to standard HSS tools. For example, Hunter Tool Systems, eg. Hunter Osprey #2 which I use for segmented bowl turning. This was an expensive departure for me and still learning how to use it. Being on a budget initially I bought cheap starter tools and then replaced the carbide with NR carbide from Easy Wood Tools, which I find really easy to use. I had no problem in fitting them to the tools that I bought.
I think the extra tube thing is a good idea. When I ordered some Gatsby kits I also got a half dozen extra tubes...hope I don't need that many LOL.
Do you use NR on regular wood blanks...or just the plastics variety?
I see you're in the Vancouver area. We were in that direction a few years ago with the RV. Our son-in-law, Naval officer, was stationed at Whidbey Island Naval Air Station. He's going back there next Feb.
 
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I think the extra tube thing is a good idea. When I ordered some Gatsby kits I also got a half dozen extra tubes...hope I don't need that many LOL.
Do you use NR on regular wood blanks...or just the plastics variety?
I see you're in the Vancouver area. We were in that direction a few years ago with the RV. Our son-in-law, Naval officer, was stationed at Whidbey Island Naval Air Station. He's going back there next Feb.
So far I have used the same cutter on all materials with equal success. Others may have a different opinion. We used to go to Whidbey Island quite often. Right now we can't even cross the border which is only a 15 min drive from where I live. Blaine and Bellingham in Washington State rely heavily on Canadian cross border traffic and many have gone bankrupt. I feel really sorry for the people in Point Roberts because they are cut off from the rest of Washington and Canadians can't visit. Over half of the property there is owned by Canadians. I used to get US goods delivered to Blaine and then go pick it up. It is way cheaper for me than paying postage all of the way to Canada, and much quicker. Right now I simply can't afford to buy pen gear from the US. Fortunately there are a couple of local stores but only limited selection. So I have to do mail order within Canada for better selection.
 
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