new to casting

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WoodWizard said:
Was going to try this casting thing this weekend, was wondering if PVC pipe would do okay as a mold?
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the thick pipe works best for me (Sch-80 CPVC, I think it is) .. since the thin-walled stuff will get soft and flex when the resin is curing (and is getting rather hot) .. the thin pipe will be curved and the blank will not come out .. you CAN cut the pipe off, since it is so cheap, but it is a Pain-In-The-Pants trying to not nick the blanks .. try a five-foot stick of the thick-walled pipe ($2) ..
 
Jeff-in-Indiana said:
the thick pipe works best for me (Sch-80 CPVC, I think it is) .. since the thin-walled stuff will get soft and flex when the resin is curing (and is getting rather hot) .. the thin pipe will be curved and the blank will not come out .. you CAN cut the pipe off, since it is so cheap, but it is a Pain-In-The-Pants trying to not nick the blanks .. try a five-foot stick of the thick-walled pipe ($2) ..
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip...we will see how it goes:biggrin:
 
For experimentation, the lowest cost and most flexible is to drill 3/4 inch holes in the edge of 2 by stock (depending on how long a piece you want- wider pieces work). Painting the inside of the hole will stop the resin from soaking into the end grain. You can drill down the center before cutting the pieces our of the wood. Turn off the wood and see what you achieved.

2 by 3 makes Sierras, and 2 by 6 makes 5 inch pieces. Scrap and construction leftovers are all casting opportunities. Works for casting small spruce cones -- minimum prep and maximum ease.
 
I have use 1/2" and 3/4" in PVC pipe for PR casting. It is a bit of a challenge afterwords to get the blanks out. It usually involved some persuasion with a hammer and small piece of wood, but I have not run into too many issues.

I don't know the schedule of the pipe off hand right now, but it is not the flimsy CPVC pipe, it is the standard grade PVC you find at the box stores.
 
I have used PVC, 1/2" thin wall Schedule 20 I think it is; at the recommendation of someone else who turns out some nice blanks. I have not tried casting anything in a larger diameter. 1/2" will make a slimline and a Sierra. Take a 2x4 cut about a 15" - 18" section and layout some lines and drill some 5/8" holes with a Fortsner bit, don't drill all the way through. This is your stand to keep your tubes upright. Get some duct tape to seal the ends of the tubes. Before you seal them get some PAM or cheap non-stick cooking spray, lubricate the inside of the tube before you tape or pour your resin. This acts as mold release to get your castings out.
 
i have used it for bottle stoppers. 1st time I used a cap and had to cut it off(that was my fault) I then put a piece of 1 by 4 pine on the lathe and cut a shallow pocket for the pvc to fit in, covered the pocket with wax paper and set it down. after curing, the blank slid right out.
 
I use 16 mm X 150 glass test tubes for slim pens and 22mm X 150 for the larger pens. you can see the results as you pour. Usaly the shrinkage of the cured resin will allow the finished blank to be gently tapped out of the test tube, if not place in a paper bag and tap firmly with a hammer. The blank is glass smooth and uses less resin per blank. tubes can be cast in by spearing the corks throug and through with a thin wire or thght dowel rod.
Mark
 
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