New lens

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Trying my new Nikon 40mm f 2.8 Macro lens today
 

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So I'm trying to figure out how to do that shot solo. Esp if you're like me and don't have eyes on long tentacles (one eye on the turning and one eye on the viewfinder?) and three hands. Tripod and 10 sec timer? Nice pic. I can see benefits here!
 
Lots of light and a fast shutter speed = curls have stopped(almost).



All I have is the Sigma EX APO 50mm f/2.8 Macro(which is actually a 75mm on my Sony). I'd really like to see SANTA bring me a Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG ASP Macro....but I'm not holding my breathe.





Scott (great score on that lense) B
 
Macro lens of choice is the Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8, closest focus 7 3/4" attached to Canon 60D.

Second pair of steady hands is great asset if available. Otherwise, sturdy tripod, remote shutter control, 10-sec delay, vari-angle LCD monitor makes solo set ups much easier.

oh yeah, Richard, great shot
 
Macro lens of choice is the Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8, closest focus 7 3/4" attached to Canon 60D.

Second pair of steady hands is great asset if available. Otherwise, sturdy tripod, remote shutter control, 10-sec delay, vari-angle LCD monitor makes solo set ups much easier.

oh yeah, Richard, great shot

Thanks. This is a new lens from Nikon that just came out this past Fall. I am shooting with it on a D70. The info says closet focus is 6.4" which is probably true as I played with it today.
 
Lots of light and a fast shutter speed = curls have stopped(almost).



All I have is the Sigma EX APO 50mm f/2.8 Macro(which is actually a 75mm on my Sony). I'd really like to see SANTA bring me a Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG ASP Macro....but I'm not holding my breathe.





Scott (great score on that lense) B
Scott, just got the Sigma 24 Macro for my Macro lens library, nice lens, although the manual focus clutch is a little "clunky", seem to get closer shots than what was published. $550 is a lot less than the 2 grand for the Nikon version, plus the Sigma is Macro, faster, and lighter in weight and size.
 
Macro lens of choice is the Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8, closest focus 7 3/4" attached to Canon 60D.

Second pair of steady hands is great asset if available. Otherwise, sturdy tripod, remote shutter control, 10-sec delay, vari-angle LCD monitor makes solo set ups much easier.

oh yeah, Richard, great shot

Thanks. This is a new lens from Nikon that just came out this past Fall. I am shooting with it on a D70. The info says closest focus is 6.4" which is probably true as I played with it today.

You can always get some extention tubes...be surprised how close you can get to stuff!

DSC00331_edited-1.jpg


This is the head of a MesquitoHawk! Although the tend to get nervous when you get that close to them....guess it's like looking down a gun barrel of something.




Scott (it's not the price, it's the wife that scares me) B
 
Nice Richard. I expect we will be seeing some fancy shots from you in the future now.

My son just got himself a new camera and gave me his old one, and Olympus C 8080. A huge step up from the fe 3000 point and shoot I have been using. Once I figure out what all the buttons and knobs are for maybe I'll be able to get some decent photos.
 
Nice lens! When I get rich and famous, that lens is my next purchase.

It costs more than my first lathe, but I think it is well worth the coin.

Congratulations!
 
Lots of light and a fast shutter speed = curls have stopped(almost).



All I have is the Sigma EX APO 50mm f/2.8 Macro(which is actually a 75mm on my Sony). I'd really like to see SANTA bring me a Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG ASP Macro....but I'm not holding my breathe.





Scott (great score on that lense) B
Scott, just got the Sigma 24 Macro for my Macro lens library, nice lens, although the manual focus clutch is a little "clunky", seem to get closer shots than what was published. $550 is a lot less than the 2 grand for the Nikon version, plus the Sigma is Macro, faster, and lighter in weight and size.


Scott- this new Nikon 40 mm is just $279 so felt like it was a good buy at that price. (That is normal pricing. They are not giving much of a discount anywhere on this one.)
 
Once I figure out what all the buttons and knobs are for maybe I'll be able to get some decent photos.

Rick and ALL; The FIRST THING you should do is search for and download the manual for your camera (or anything else you have). No only will it not get lost, but you can zoom in on those itty bitty diagrams on the postage stamp size manuals they send out now-adays.

Richard; Nice photo. I need to look for a set of extension tubes.
 
A lack of depth of field can be an issue with macro lenses so a flash really helps. Typical F-stop for me is F16 or higher. I use a coiled remote cable to take the flash out of the hot shoe and put the light where I want it.
 
A lack of depth of field can be an issue with macro lenses so a flash really helps. Typical F-stop for me is F16 or higher. I use a coiled remote cable to take the flash out of the hot shoe and put the light where I want it.

Flash, as far as I know, does not effect DOF at all. It freezes motion, but does not effect DOF. Aperature plays a roll in lighting, but that's another read. f/16 is quite the large DOF, which is needed for showing off your work...but have you tried something like f/4 or 5.8 or even 8? This will give you a shorter DOF but still keep your subject in focus if you are using single point AF.

It's good to get your flash off camera, hot shoe flash is not something to stick with if your able to set things up in different orientations.
 
Have fun with the lens. There is some good advice above. I'd try aperture f/16 or higher (very important), manual focus, tripod with release or timer. Try the shot with and without flash, if you have the option, and see which you like. With the tripod, shutter speed is not critical.

I shoot with a 105mm f/2.8 Nikkor Micro. Not great for indoor stills, but perfect for critters and such.
 
A lack of depth of field can be an issue with macro lenses so a flash really helps. Typical F-stop for me is F16 or higher. I use a coiled remote cable to take the flash out of the hot shoe and put the light where I want it.

Flash, as far as I know, does not effect DOF at all. It freezes motion, but does not effect DOF. Aperature plays a roll in lighting, but that's another read. f/16 is quite the large DOF, which is needed for showing off your work...but have you tried something like f/4 or 5.8 or even 8? This will give you a shorter DOF but still keep your subject in focus if you are using single point AF.

It's good to get your flash off camera, hot shoe flash is not something to stick with if your able to set things up in different orientations.

The flash provides enough light to use F-Stops that keep the entire subject in focus. The DOF with the lenses wide open means at f/4 is less than the thickness of a dime or just the eyes on a bugs head or just part of a flower. Moving the flash around also allows me to control where the light comes from and how light illuminates the subject. Just a little more creativity.
 
Don't forget, DOF is also determined by how far away the subject of intent is also.

DOF Calculator



Ansel Adams rarely took photo's at anything less then f/45, but what did he know?:rolleyes:






Scott (just have fun with it) B
 
A lack of depth of field can be an issue with macro lenses so a flash really helps. Typical F-stop for me is F16 or higher. I use a coiled remote cable to take the flash out of the hot shoe and put the light where I want it.

Flash, as far as I know, does not effect DOF at all. It freezes motion, but does not effect DOF. Aperature plays a roll in lighting, but that's another read. f/16 is quite the large DOF, which is needed for showing off your work...but have you tried something like f/4 or 5.8 or even 8? This will give you a shorter DOF but still keep your subject in focus if you are using single point AF.

It's good to get your flash off camera, hot shoe flash is not something to stick with if your able to set things up in different orientations.

The flash provides enough light to use F-Stops that keep the entire subject in focus. The DOF with the lenses wide open means at f/4 is less than the thickness of a dime or just the eyes on a bugs head or just part of a flower. Moving the flash around also allows me to control where the light comes from and how light illuminates the subject. Just a little more creativity.

I've taken photos that are at ~ f/2.2 that keep things in focus, though they are at a further focal length that what a lathe would be at. I plan on taking photos today as I get to open my lathe. f/4 or so should keep a decent focus on your turning if taken similar to the original photo on this thread. I'll create a new thread in a bit with differences. I may be wrong, but i'll find out when I take the photos.

Off Camera Flash is very much more powerful and creative. :) I've got two YN4xx models.
 
Does your Nikon have "Live View" D300 or equivalent? If so that would allow you to just glance at the LCD to check focus, etc.

So I'm trying to figure out how to do that shot solo. Esp if you're like me and don't have eyes on long tentacles (one eye on the turning and one eye on the viewfinder?) and three hands. Tripod and 10 sec timer? Nice pic. I can see benefits here!
 
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