Negative Rake Scraper?

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jttheclockman

jttheclockman

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I use the Easy wood turning carbide tools. Is there a negative rake scraper to fit the standard turning tools or do I have to buy the whole tool? Thanks. May have to give these a try if I start doing those segmented 360 degree glue ups like Ken.
 
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jttheclockman said:
I use the Easy wood turning carbide tools. Is there a negative rake scraper to fit the standard turning tools or do I have to buy the whole tool? Thanks. May have to give these a try if I start doing those segmented 360 degree glue ups like Ken.
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John, I bought mine at AZ carbide. The 360° herringbone blanks are massive, so you have lots of room for trying different cutting tools/methods.
 
You might also try SpeakEasy Pen Emporium - they bought T Shadow Tools out, who used to make really nice carbide inserts for a number of tools. Not sure if they are geared up for everything yet, but if you reach out to them, they might be able to help.

Kevin
 
d_bondi said:
John, check out EWT's Negative Rake page.

I think you just match up your usual cutter with the NR cutter. I have the medium size tools so for a round mine is a Ci3 so for a round negative rake, I get a Ci3-NR.
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Agree - you just need to change the cutter head, as long as you're purchasing the cutter head to be in the Ci3 family it will fit.
 
I have the Ci 0 round and the Ci 1 semi square full size EWT tools. I use the round tool the most. Hardly use the square any more. I also have the triangle tool somewhere. Probably get one for that tool also. Thanks for the info. I will order from them so I know I get ones that fit properly.
 
d_bondi said:
If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft in your area, they carry them and sometimes have sales.
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I have no woodworking stores at all in my area. Woodcraft moved out many years ago. We are starved for stores like that. Harbor Freight does not count in the slightest. I will try these and see what all the hullabaloo is about. I will also be trying standard carbide and standard HSS on those segmented pen blanks and I will be making them with both end grain and flat grain. I think that looks best. Just my opinion.

Right after New Years I will be returning to my shop and start some projects. The first being fixing my Performax 16/32 drum sander. Also really need to do some organizing. My router table is covered in pen blanks and pen stuff from last winter. I have so many blanks half started that I have no idea what kits I had planned for them so now have no idea what tube I used. I really need to write this stuff down. I get distracted so easily. Will see what I can do this winter. Hopefully have some fun again.
 
Exotic Blanks is (as of this morning) running 20% off on Easy Wood Tools and associated supplies
 
@jttheclockman The NR cutters are great for resins. If you do mostly wood, then I am not sure if you will see what the fuss is about, as while they do work on wood, the difference is not the same as with resins. With resins, a normal flat (zero rake) bit can cause pretty severe chipout. The NR cutters, though, can completely eliminate that. It depends to a degree on the kind of resin, and hard resins like inlace can still be harder to turn, just not as hard as with a normal cutter. So if you are going to be working with resins, you should see the benefits.

If you are just going to be turning wood, then I suspect you will find that your skill with a skew is still quite superior. ;)
 
jrista said:
@jttheclockman The NR cutters are great for resins. If you do mostly wood, then I am not sure if you will see what the fuss is about, as while they do work on wood, the difference is not the same as with resins. With resins, a normal flat (zero rake) bit can cause pretty severe chipout. The NR cutters, though, can completely eliminate that. It depends to a degree on the kind of resin, and hard resins like inlace can still be harder to turn, just not as hard as with a normal cutter. So if you are going to be working with resins, you should see the benefits.

If you are just going to be turning wood, then I suspect you will find that your skill with a skew is still quite superior. ;)
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I have been turning resins woods and metals since I started turning long ago. So no that is not the reason for the trial. I will be making the same type blanks as Ken has shown in the coming months and want to be prepared. If it is true that negative rake scrapers are the answer to not getting blow outs on those type blanks I will concede because way too much work goes into making them. I have read many times about inlace blanks being tough to turn but I do not find them to be any harder than acrylics of other kinds. The whole key is tool control. If you lack the ability to stead a tool when turning and it jumps on you because of reflex or other disorders it maybe that you should stay away from certain blanks. Just a slight jab into those type blanks cause blowouts. It is a fine line we turn at when turning different materials. I have a couple very very delicate blanks I want to turn and for those I will go right to the NRS if I find them useful . I really want to turn one in particular and show it off here so bad. Just scared of the blowout and am working on how I want to encase it before I spin it. I rarely turn wood blanks. I will be turning some wood but not for pens this winter.
 
jttheclockman said:
I have no woodworking stores at all in my area. Woodcraft moved out many years ago. We are starved for stores like that. Harbor Freight does not count in the slightest. I will try these and see what all the hullabaloo is about. I will also be trying standard carbide and standard HSS on those segmented pen blanks and I will be making them with both end grain and flat grain. I think that looks best. Just my opinion.

Right after New Years I will be returning to my shop and start some projects. The first being fixing my Performax 16/32 drum sander. Also really need to do some organizing. My router table is covered in pen blanks and pen stuff from last winter. I have so many blanks half started that I have no idea what kits I had planned for them so now have no idea what tube I used. I really need to write this stuff down. I get distracted so easily. Will see what I can do this winter. Hopefully have some fun again.
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the second paragraph describes my whole workshop but I know where everything is. Just need to finish the semi finished projects but then a new idea…….

Every success and health in 2025 to all !
 
jttheclockman said:
I have been turning resins woods and metals since I started turning long ago. So no that is not the reason for the trial. I will be making the same type blanks as Ken has shown in the coming months and want to be prepared. If it is true that negative rake scrapers are the answer to not getting blow outs on those type blanks I will concede because way too much work goes into making them. I have read many times about inlace blanks being tough to turn but I do not find them to be any harder than acrylics of other kinds. The whole key is tool control. If you lack the ability to stead a tool when turning and it jumps on you because of reflex or other disorders it maybe that you should stay away from certain blanks. Just a slight jab into those type blanks cause blowouts. It is a fine line we turn at when turning different materials. I have a couple very very delicate blanks I want to turn and for those I will go right to the NRS if I find them useful . I really want to turn one in particular and show it off here so bad. Just scared of the blowout and am working on how I want to encase it before I spin it. I rarely turn wood blanks. I will be turning some wood but not for pens this winter.
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I see. The NRS would certainly reduce the aggression of the tool. Nature of the physics of it there.

I am curious, though...with a skew, and I make no assumption that my skill even compares to yours so this is partly a question too, a skew, I guess used a certain way, would "cut across" the blank, rather than "into" the blank. Would the skew, then, be...less aggressive than an NRS tool? If you had the skew angled such that the angle of the edge, was fairly high compared to the rotation of the wood, then the wood, would get sliced with pretty low aggression...

Have you tried that? Do you still get blowouts? If so...then I would think that an NRS carbide tool wouldn't be much different.
 
jrista said:
I see. The NRS would certainly reduce the aggression of the tool. Nature of the physics of it there.

I am curious, though...with a skew, and I make no assumption that my skill even compares to yours so this is partly a question too, a skew, I guess used a certain way, would "cut across" the blank, rather than "into" the blank. Would the skew, then, be...less aggressive than an NRS tool? If you had the skew angled such that the angle of the edge, was fairly high compared to the rotation of the wood, then the wood, would get sliced with pretty low aggression...

Have you tried that? Do you still get blowouts? If so...then I would think that an NRS carbide tool wouldn't be much different.
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When I start making those type segmented pens I will be trying all different tools. I just got the NRS not long ago now and have not had a chance to try them. I have a few other projects I want to work on first. Those pens are on my list but not high on the list right now. I have a few jigs I want to make also so they will be first so I can get these other projects going. I have some big ambitions this winter and hopefully they prove fruitful but time will see. A far as my use of a skew is far from some of the of the turners I seen in many videos. I am not skilled at doing beads and things like that but can cut straight across evenly.
 
Regarding segmented pen turning. I'm getting into that a bit now. Had planned to start last summer, but circumstances did not allow. Do you guys generally trim off the corners of a complex segmented blank before turning? Or is there as much risk in cutting them off on say a bandsaw, as there is in turning the corners off?
 
jrista said:
Regarding segmented pen turning. I'm getting into that a bit now. Had planned to start last summer, but circumstances did not allow. Do you guys generally trim off the corners of a complex segmented blank before turning? Or is there as much risk in cutting them off on say a bandsaw, as there is in turning the corners off?
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For me that is a tough question to answer because some of my blanks I work them from a round stage and some I work from a square state. The ones I did in a square state I did not knock off corners. I had no problems turning them down. With these herringbone patterns I will be cutting the wings off so yes I will be knocking corners off. Alot depends on how delicate the design is.
 
jrista said:
Regarding segmented pen turning. I'm getting into that a bit now. Had planned to start last summer, but circumstances did not allow. Do you guys generally trim off the corners of a complex segmented blank before turning? Or is there as much risk in cutting them off on say a bandsaw, as there is in turning the corners off?
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Jon, if I need to knock off the corners I do that using a disc sander.
 
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