need some help.

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Woodnknots

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Carrollton, VA, USA.
I had someone contact me today asking if I could make a "primitive" cup to go with their authentic 18th century colonial gear. This picture is what he sent. What I need is advice from anyone out there that's made them on techniques used, and price, if possible. I quoted $60-$70 per cup, depending on what it takes, and he's agreed to buy the first one, regardless of the outcome, so that I don't waste my time. I'd appreciate any help possible!
-Dave



2007810233149_cups.jpg
 
The middle one resembles the one I use except yours is prettier wood. I find two things curious here. Most 'primitive' or buckskinner types make their own stuff, that's part of the fun and challenge to the reenactment bit. And you quoted him a price without experience making these. At rendezvous, something like that would sell in the $20.00-$30.00 range. But, if he will pay your price, more power to you. The wood selected must be solid, no special reccomendation there, most woods will work. I don't even know what kind mine is. Carving is done several ways. Traditionally, hot coals or rocks were used to burn out portions the that was dug out, more burning, more digging, etc. Or, you can go to a woodcarving supply house and buy a large spoon gouge and just have at it. Power tools can be used. But the downside there is, if any tool marks are left that indicate power was used, your friend will be a laughingstock at rendezvous because everything is expected to be hand made, as was the case in the time being represented. After all, these are 'reenactments', not Hollywood fake. When/if you make a cup, do not finish, leave bare. Finishes will only contaminate the liquids being drunk out of it. In a days time, mine will have coffee; water, soup, wine, or harder stuff in it. BTW, mine is well over 20 years old and still just fine. Others may tell you to finish or oil it. My experience, more than 35 years worth, says don't finish.
 
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />The middle one resembles the one I use except yours is prettier wood. I find two things curious here. Most 'primitive' or buckskinner types make their own stuff, that's part of the fun and challenge to the reenactment bit. And you quoted him a price without experience making these. At rendezvous, something like that would sell in the $20.00-$30.00 range. But, if he will pay your price, more power to you. The wood selected must be solid, no special reccomendation there, most woods will work. I don't even know what kind mine is. Carving is done several ways. Traditionally, hot coals or rocks were used to burn out portions the that was dug out, more burning, more digging, etc. Or, you can go to a woodcarving supply house and buy a large spoon gouge and just have at it. Power tools can be used. But the downside there is, if any tool marks are left that indicate power was used, your friend will be a laughingstock at rendezvous because everything is expected to be hand made, as was the case in the time being represented. After all, these are 'reenactments', not Hollywood fake. When/if you make a cup, do not finish, leave bare. Finishes will only contaminate the liquids being drunk out of it. In a days time, mine will have coffee; water, soup, wine, or harder stuff in it. BTW, mine is well over 20 years old and still just fine. Others may tell you to finish or oil it. My experience, more than 35 years worth, says don't finish.
Thanks, Frank. So I assume this is not something I should be turning? I had the idea to turn it with wings, then cut one off and leave the other as the handle. I was going to hit it with some hand tools after that, but the bulk was going to be done on the lathe. Is that a huge no-no to have a symmetrically round cup? What if I rough turn it, then microwave it and let it shrink to size? I was going to use cherry.
 
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