Need some help folks!

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Larry

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Aug 25, 2005
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Crawford, Colorado, USA.
I have been at this addictive hobby/art now for about two months and I would love to hear some tips on finishing. I just can't seem to get the desired finish I'm looking for. I sand with 150-400 grit and then use either shellawax or crystal coat which gives a great shine. I then add a coat or two of high gloss miniwax lacquer but it seems to take away some of the shine. Should I let the lacquer dry? I have been coating the work and then spin buff the lacquer while it is wet. Is this the correct method everyone uses? I suspect maybe I need to go up to 1200 sanding to help the finish but any tips would be appreciate from start to finish.

I see a lot on CA finish. What are the steps for using CA to finish a pen?

Help me!!
Larry Groll
 
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Larry, Most of us sand to at least 1200 grit, usually to 2000 grit. if using sandpaper. You'll next hear about "Micro Mesh" which is on its own scale, goes to 12000 grit. After the pen looks like a piece of glass, the finish is applied. Do a search of the website for 'finishng', we use Lacquer, CA, Enduro, and friction polishes.
Spend some time reading through the history here and then ask questions. Most of yours have been answered many times over. There's enough info here to get you going crazy trying all the different procedures, in order to find one that works for you. WE all do the same thing a little differently. Again, the most important aspect of a great finish is the prep before the finsh goes on.
 
Larry, lacquer needs to cure for a couple of days before it can be buffed out.. I also would not use lacquer over shellwax. Shellwax is a shellac/wax combination that produces a high gloss but does not wear well...
Your final finish will only be as good as the final sanding of the wood... I generally sand my wood to at least 1500 grit, wiping it down with DNA between grits... if using a lacquer finish, I then put on two coats of sanding sealer, let it dry and sand that to 12000 Micro Mesh.. I use Deft spray lacquer and apply 4-5 coats about 15 minutes apart, let dry for 30 minutes then take the blanks off the mandrel and put them on my carrier stand to cure for at least 4-5 days. I then return them to the mandrel and use automotive polishing compound to smooth any ripples and follow that with either plastic polish or automotive anti-swirl cream.
Lacquer IS NOT a quick finish...
The other best alternative (and I use it more than lacquer) is Enduro... you can find the directions in the Finishing forum... great stuff..
 
Tom, I knew that You'ld fill in the details I left out in the midst if packing for my trip to Texas. Finally got into bed after 0100 and the alarm went off at 0430.
 
Thanks for the tips guys this helps out a lot. At least I have learned something new today. I will start using the 1200 grit and see what difference that makes. I wasn't aware of not putting lacquer over the Shellwax which is probably the reason for it dulling the finish I had from the wax. There is a lot to learn here and you guys make I much easier.

Thanks
Larry[:D]
 
Go to the home page and in the member submitted links is a well kept secret.
"Making a pen"
It is a link to Russ Fairfields site.
Get a beverage of choice and spend a while reading the information that is posted there.
He has a series of articles on finishes.
Well worth the time.
 
I also use Shellawax, but without the laquer on top.
I first sand up to about 6000 grit (micro mesh).
I use 3 coats of Shellawax.
It isnt the most durable finish..granted. But I like the fact that this friction polish does maintain the feel of "wood". I have tried CA and while it looks great and holds up better, it feels like plastic. If I want this, I'll turn acrylics, not wood. As for the shine, when it dulls with Shellawax, I rub a touch of orange or lemon oil on and it comes back up. Whatever finish you decide on though you must sand really well to get a smooth appearance..OSCAR
 
Oscar -- you may want to think about taking a step backwards and using shellac to provide a good seal and then wax over the top. Shellac is a good sealer/sanding sealer. Spray cans of clear are the easiest to use. Cleanup with DNA. Shellac is soluable with DNA so have that around the finish with care.


I use oil to pop the grain and then shellac over that. A good wax provides a utility finish. And yup, I have used shellawax, mostly on turnings that do not get as much handling.

a few coats of enduro over the shellac and you have a buffable surface with will glow. I often use a final topping with TSW or Renwax.
 
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