My new wood needs stabilized, but I think I'm going to need help.

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civilwartalk

civilwartalk

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
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96
Location
WV, USA
So, last night I received a very special gift from someone I trust, but now I have a small tote sitting in front of my garage with some rotting wood scraps that I was not prepared to process into blanks, and I'm pretty sure they will need to be stabilized before I do anything with them.

First, how big of a rush should I be to get this stabilized, I'm assuming, the sooner, the better. At least that's my first reaction...

If the wood need to wait for a while before I stabilize it, is there some way I can keep it safe while it waits?

Admittedly, I do want to get into the process of stabilizing blanks, but I am just getting started with turning and making pens, and I don't have the equipment, nor do I want to risk messing things up with what I believe is pretty valuable wood, at least to my circle of friends.

So, is there anyone near the Shenandoah Valley in West Virginia with the knowledge & equipment to stabilize blanks that would be willing to help me with these, and maybe teach me how to get started stabilizing wood?
 
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I'd suggest sending it off to get professionally stabilized ( http://www.kandgstabilizing.com/sending-in-wood.html ). I have not used K&G, but have heard from others that had good experiences. There are others out there, but I believe K&G is the gold standard. If it is valuable wood that is irreplaceable then I would spend a few extra bucks to go with a professional outfit. I find that the blanks that I stabilized myself using Cactus Juice, while good, are not quite as good as the professionally stabilized pieces I have used. Just my 2 cents.
 
Dehn0045 said:
I'd suggest sending it off to get professionally stabilized ( http://www.kandgstabilizing.com/sending-in-wood.html ). I have not used K&G, but have heard from others that had good experiences. There are others out there, but I believe K&G is the gold standard. If it is valuable wood that is irreplaceable then I would spend a few extra bucks to go with a professional outfit. I find that the blanks that I stabilized myself using Cactus Juice, while good, are not quite as good as the professionally stabilized pieces I have used. Just my 2 cents.
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I had no idea that was an option, but will seriously consider it.

Charlie_W said:
Mike, where in WV are you located?
There might be someone in the local wood turning clubs that can help get you going.
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I'm on the south side of Martinsburg.
 
1080Wayne said:
`Outside in a tote` does not equate to being dry , which is a must to prevent further rotting , and also a must for stabilization .
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No, it doesn't, but on the other hand, there was the concern that there might be bugs of one sort or another, and I didn't have another safe cold place to put them unfortunately. I'm hoping to get a plastic cooler out of storage and sort things out, bring them in the house, see if anything is in these logs... Don't want my garage / woodpile contaminated.
 
civilwartalk said:
No, it doesn't, but on the other hand, there was the concern that there might be bugs of one sort or another, and I didn't have another safe cold place to put them unfortunately. I'm hoping to get a plastic cooler out of storage and sort things out, bring them in the house, see if anything is in these logs... Don't want my garage / woodpile contaminated.
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Makes sense . If you can put each piece in a clear plastic bag , you can see what happens as it warms up in the house .
 
In the summertime you can put in a black plastic bag out in the sun and the bag will heat up enough to kill the bugs. Not sure of any tricks in the winter. If they are small blanks you could put them in a toaster oven - 200 degrees for the better part of a day should do. I have heard mixed reviews about using insecticides in big plastic bags, I would probably give it a try myself.
 
If you have a shop microwave and the pieces fit, you can zap any critters. You can also dry the wood in the microwave...with care not to scorch or ignite it.
best to cut a little larger than blank size regardless of drying method.

pm sent re/local clubs.
 
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