My new pen turning system

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michaelperez

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Hello, I'm relatively new to pen making and recently started working with the Axminster compressor pen mandrel. I find it to be a good value, but it only works with the0.242" shaft. Most of the time, it provides very acceptable concentricity.

After purchasing the Beall Collet chuck, I wondered how it would work in conjunction with a pen saver. After some research, I liked the Hold Fast pen saver that works with a collet and comes with the 2 shafts diameter (0.242" and I.246")so I decided to buy it and give it a try. I was very nervous until I tried my first pen, and I couldn't be happier with the results. The concentricity is perfect, and the setup feels more stable, leading to a better overall experience—though maybe that's just me justifying the investment!

Now, I try not to sand and instead finish with my skew, especially when working with segmented wood, to avoid mixing the wood colors. I currently use a Crown 3/4" HSS skew, and now I'm thinking about investing in the Carter & Son skew. I've read amazing things about it, and I wonder if it could further improve the turning experience.
 

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Michael; Very nice pens.

The skew used as a shearing cutter (not scraper) gives a much finer surface right off the tool. I can usually start sanding with 220, then up to 600. If you get a skew, look for a way to put a "flat grind" on the bevel.

There are 3 families of bevel for the skew. The concave is the sharpest, but most "grabby". convex is the least sharp but easiest to control. If you look at a new skew it has a flat bevel.

  • "concave" (hollow) is ground with a standard wheel.
  • "flat" is ground using a flat surface, stone or disk sander
  • "concave" is ground free-hand with a slight inward curve on the bevel
 
nice segmentation work there.

Thanks for telling us about the collet tailstock too
Thank you so much! I'm grateful for all the help I've received from you, and I'm happy to share my small experiences with you.
My wife and I are working on a segmented collection, and I'll be posting them once they're finished.
 
Michael; Very nice pens.

The skew used as a shearing cutter (not scraper) gives a much finer surface right off the tool. I can usually start sanding with 220, then up to 600. If you get a skew, look for a way to put a "flat grind" on the bevel.

There are 3 families of bevel for the skew. The concave is the sharpest, but most "grabby". convex is the least sharp but easiest to control. If you look at a new skew it has a flat bevel.

  • "concave" (hollow) is ground with a standard wheel.
  • "flat" is ground using a flat surface, stone or disk sander
  • "concave" is ground free-hand with a slight inward curve on the bevel
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation! I've definitely learned a lot from your insights about skew grinding types. The tool I regularly use is the hollow-ground one, which I guess is because I sharpen it on my 8" aluminum oxide white wheel slow-speed grinder. Based on your experience, do you think getting the Carter and Son skew chisel would be a worthwhile investment compared to the Crown HSS? Does it seem like it could offer better stability, control, and edge retention?"
PD after grinding I use a 600 DMT card that would work as a flat bevel?
 
Hello, I'm relatively new to pen making and recently started working with the Axminster compressor pen mandrel. I find it to be a good value, but it only works with the0.242" shaft. Most of the time, it provides very acceptable concentricity.

After purchasing the Beall Collet chuck, I wondered how it would work in conjunction with a pen saver. After some research, I liked the Hold Fast pen saver that works with a collet and comes with the 2 shafts diameter (0.242" and I.246")so I decided to buy it and give it a try. I was very nervous until I tried my first pen, and I couldn't be happier with the results. The concentricity is perfect, and the setup feels more stable, leading to a better overall experience—though maybe that's just me justifying the investment!

Now, I try not to sand and instead finish with my skew, especially when working with segmented wood, to avoid mixing the wood colors. I currently use a Crown 3/4" HSS skew, and now I'm thinking about investing in the Carter & Son skew. I've read amazing things about it, and I wonder if it could further improve the turning experience.
Try turning between centers and leave mandrels aside. If you insist using one never turn both pieces at the same time when turning a two piece pen. Also bear in mind that relatively high end pen kits have provide well made bushings that fit nicely and their pen kits truly correspond to their bushings; a thickness caliper is a must use.
Cheers, mike
 
Try turning between centers and leave mandrels aside. If you insist using one never turn both pieces at the same time when turning a two piece pen. Also bear in mind that relatively high end pen kits have provide well made bushings that fit nicely and their pen kits truly correspond to their bushings; a thickness caliper is a must use.
Cheers, mike
Thanks so much. I've also tried turning between centers but only with the McKenzie Liberty and Desire kits because they come with bushings that has a 60° cone.
Why is it not recommended to turn two-piece kits at once? Because loose concentricity?
Greetings
 
Thanks so much. I've also tried turning between centers but only with the McKenzie Liberty and Desire kits because they come with bushings that has a 60° cone.
Why is it not recommended to turn two-piece kits at once? Because loose concentricity?
Greetings
Exactly.
 
Thanks so much. I've also tried turning between centers but only with the McKenzie Liberty and Desire kits because they come with bushings that has a 60° cone.
Why is it not recommended to turn two-piece kits at once? Because loose concentricity?
Greetings

once you settle down to a favorite kit(s) you can find tbc bushings here among other shops.
 
Based on your experience, do you think getting the Carter and Son skew chisel would be a worthwhile investment compared to the Crown HSS? Does it seem like it could offer better stability, control, and edge retention?"
PD after grinding I use a 600 DMT card that would work as a flat bevel?

I do not use either of those two so can't really say. Pay attention as they may be un-handled! You just get the chisel but no handle. If you are going to start using a skew, get a cheap one to practice sharpening. HSS is best as you can grind it without loosing the temper in the metal. My skews come from Penn State Industries. Their tools don't get any respect, but a comparison review many years ago in AAW magazine judged them better than average. The best tool is the one you use most often. practice, practice, practice.....


If the skew has sharp corners, use the grinding wheel to round the corners. This will help prevent dings in an iron tool rest. Some skews will come as oval or with rounded edges.
The DMT will work to touch up the edge, but will not change a hollow grind into a flat grind.
 

once you settle down to a favorite kit(s) you can find tbc bushings here among other shops.-

Thanks so much, you're right. Initially, I also considered buying the adapter they sell for use with any existing bushings, but I heard that method isn't very precise. It's better to get the bushings with the 60° cone, like the ones from McKenzie is that true?
 
I do not use either of those two so can't really say. Pay attention as they may be un-handled! You just get the chisel but no handle. If you are going to start using a skew, get a cheap one to practice sharpening. HSS is best as you can grind it without loosing the temper in the metal. My skews come from Penn State Industries. Their tools don't get any respect, but a comparison review many years ago in AAW magazine judged them better than average. The best tool is the one you use most often. practice, practice, practice.....


If the skew has sharp corners, use the grinding wheel to round the corners. This will help prevent dings in an iron tool rest. Some skews will come as oval or with rounded edges.
The DMT will work to touch up the edge, but will not change a hollow grind into a flat grind.
Thanks so much! The skew is quickly becoming my favorite and most useful tool, especially because I find it better for finishing than sanding. When I work with segmented wood, sanding can cause the colors of the different woods to bleed into each other, staining the fibers. So now, I avoid sanding before the CA and focus on doing my best with the skew.

For sharpening, I use the Wolverine system on a Rikon low-speed grinder. It only takes two light touches on the 100-grit white oxide wheel. I'm lucky that my Crown HSS chisel came with rounded edges.

Thanks for the advice. I understand that many premium chisels are offered without handles, so I'll pay attention to that.
Has never tried flat bevel grind, im curious what would be the difference in comparison with the one I get from the grinding wheel.
Thank you again for all your help.
 
Thanks so much! The skew is quickly becoming my favorite and most useful tool, especially because I find it better for finishing than sanding. When I work with segmented wood, sanding can cause the colors of the different woods to bleed into each other, staining the fibers. So now, I avoid sanding before the CA and focus on doing my best with the skew.

For sharpening, I use the Wolverine system on a Rikon low-speed grinder. It only takes two light touches on the 100-grit white oxide wheel. I'm lucky that my Crown HSS chisel came with rounded edges.

Thanks for the advice. I understand that many premium chisels are offered without handles, so I'll pay attention to that.
Has never tried flat bevel grind, im curious what would be the difference in comparison with the one I get from the grinding wheel.
Thank you again for all your help.

Have a look at this video
 
Thanks so much! The skew is quickly becoming my favorite and most useful tool, especially because I find it better for finishing than sanding. When I work with segmented wood, sanding can cause the colors of the different woods to bleed into each other, staining the fibers. So now, I avoid sanding before the CA and focus on doing my best with the skew.

For sharpening, I use the Wolverine system on a Rikon low-speed grinder. It only takes two light touches on the 100-grit white oxide wheel. I'm lucky that my Crown HSS chisel came with rounded edges.

Thanks for the advice. I understand that many premium chisels are offered without handles, so I'll pay attention to that.
Has never tried flat bevel grind, im curious what would be the difference in comparison with the one I get from the grinding wheel.
Thank you again for all your help.
I can't comment on Carter skew chisels as never used one but grind types I can comment based purely on how I use them. Others may have different experiences.

Flat grind gives you a wider surface to contact the work behind the edge , burnishing it in effect ( if you think of it like that. ) Round skews don't mark your rest and are ideal for pen making I find.

Hollow grind makes it slightly faster to hone as your diamond card touches only the cutting edge and back of the hollow . It makes it easier to see you've had an effect on the edge. With this you have a narrow contact area with the work so tool application / initial contact is slightly more critical I find , but practice and like most things you get used to it.

I use both types of grind . My two round skews are ground and honed totally flat . My flat skews are ground hollow and 2 out of the 5 have curved edges rather than straight edges but these get used more for spindle work planing cuts . The curved edges make them much easier to use to form beads .

Don't be afraid to try curved edges they can make life much easier
 
I can't comment on Carter skew chisels as never used one but grind types I can comment based purely on how I use them. Others may have different experiences.

Flat grind gives you a wider surface to contact the work behind the edge , burnishing it in effect ( if you think of it like that. ) Round skews don't mark your rest and are ideal for pen making I find.

Hollow grind makes it slightly faster to hone as your diamond card touches only the cutting edge and back of the hollow . It makes it easier to see you've had an effect on the edge. With this you have a narrow contact area with the work so tool application / initial contact is slightly more critical I find , but practice and like most things you get used to it.

I use both types of grind . My two round skews are ground and honed totally flat . My flat skews are ground hollow and 2 out of the 5 have curved edges rather than straight edges but these get used more for spindle work planing cuts . The curved edges make them much easier to use to form beads .

Don't be afraid to try curved edges they can make life much easier

Thank you so much! At the end of the day, the knowledge you gain is what truly matters. Once you've mastered the fundamentals, you can handle any tool with greater confidence and skill, which also allows you to get the most out of premium tools. I'm particularly curious to experiment with a flat bevel. I've been wondering about the best way to sharpen it—perhaps using a diamond card could be the answer.
Here is picture of my skew chisel
 

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