Segmenting My first stave blank

[NGLJ]

I wanted to create a blank where the face grain would be seen all the way around. So, I made a stave blank with 6 staves and mahogany veneer between the staves. It is about 1" in diameter and 5.5 inches long. I haven't yet decided exactly what to do with it. The first part of the exercise was to figure out how to do it reliably and accurately. Needless to say some early efforts finished on "the cutting room floor"!

 

[KenB259]

Nice job. That type of segmenting can be the basis of lots of design. I have several jigs I have made to cut slots for a very similar result.

 

[SteveJ]

Well done. Those small staves are tough to get right. Like Ken, I find that a jig to cut slots is easier and produces a very similar result.

 

[PatrickR]

I have wanted to do similar with quartered oak to get the figure to show 360. Cutting slots won't give the same effect. Nice job!

 

[KenB259]

I have wanted to do similar with quartered oak to get the figure to show 360. Cutting slots won't give the same effect. Nice job!

Okay

 

[mark james]

Oh My! Very well done. Just a few pictures for ideas... I have not gone back to these for quite a few months, but once you get the hang of the precision for staves, the possibilities will last a lifetime. I hope to do more this winter. Please ask any Q's.

As to your blank, I'd suggest cutting rings - about 1/4"+/-. Then the 5" blank will yield 3-4-5 pens with end rings. Just my thought, but even a full length pen will be awesome.

Cheers, Mark

EDIT: I got a message pointing out an error. I meant to suggest cutting the blank into 1/4" +/- rings, not 14" rings...

 

[magpens]

Cutting slots won't give the same effect. Nice job!

@PatrickR

I would appreciate it if you could explain, even briefly, why "Cutting slots won't give the same effect."

Thanks in advance.

 

[jrista]

Oh My! Very well done. Just a few pictures for ideas... I have not gone back to these for quite a few months, but once you get the hang of the precision for staves, the possibilities will last a lifetime. I hope to do more this winter. Please ask any Q's.

As to your blank, I'd suggest cutting rings - about 14"+/-. Then the 5" blank will yield 3-4-5 pens with end rings. Just my thought, but even a full length pen will be awesome.

Cheers, Mark

...wow...

When I see things like this, it really makes me want to dive into segmented pen making like this! These look excellent! (I'll get into this someday, but I gotta try and stay focused on just getting a business going with "simple" pens first! )

I am curious...how did you cut those slots into that dowel in your third pic? That seems like tricky work...

 

[PatrickR]

@PatrickR

I would appreciate it if you could explain, even briefly, why "Cutting slots won't give the same effect."

Thanks in advance.

Done like the OP allows face grain (or any other) to be seen 360*. While a dowel cut with slots shows face grain two sides transitioning to end grain on the opposite sides.
Edit - side grain not end grain

 

[mark james]

...wow...

When I see things like this, it really makes me want to dive into segmented pen making like this! These look excellent! (I'll get into this someday, but I gotta try and stay focused on just getting a business going with "simple" pens first! )

I am curious...how did you cut those slots into that dowel in your third pic? That seems like tricky work...

...wow...

When I see things like this, it really makes me want to dive into segmented pen making like this! These look excellent! (I'll get into this someday, but I gotta try and stay focused on just getting a business going with "simple" pens first! )

I am curious...how did you cut those slots into that dowel in your third pic? That seems like tricky work...

Here is a link for the start of my journey: Link.

 

[jrista]

Here is a link for the start of my journey: Link.

Thanks!

 

[jttheclockman]

Stave blank making is a whole lot different than slot cutting. As mentioned with staves you get face grain on all sides of the blank. With slot cutting you get 2 face grain that transfer to side grain. Just as if you cut a slice lengthwise out of a board. Both require a sled of sorts to adapt to the tool being used weather bandsaw or tablesaw. Getting the correct angles is needed also when cutting staves. Cutting slots is just a matter of indexing the amount of slots needed. Now if using acrylics of one color then no need to cut staves. Slots work well.

My suggestion to the OP is to use more contrasting woods to highlight the stripes. But his effort opens many possibilities. Nice job.

 

[magpens]

Done like the OP allows face grain (or any other) to be seen 360*. While a dowel cut with slots shows face grain two sides transitioning to end grain on the opposite sides.

Thanks for confirming what I thought.

It has taken me quite a while to get used to the terminology : . . Face Grain .... Edge Grain .... End Grain

It is not always clear what we are referring to on a pen blank unless we cut our own blanks from a plank whose origin is actually known.

It CAN be that a bought pen blank presents us with two of one grain and two of another . . . . but you can't depend on that being the case.

Of course, I am always open to correction if my understanding seems to be lacking in any way. . . As always .... lots to learn !!

 

[NGLJ]

Oh My! Very well done. Just a few pictures for ideas... I have not gone back to these for quite a few months, but once you get the hang of the precision for staves, the possibilities will last a lifetime. I hope to do more this winter. Please ask any Q's.

As to your blank, I'd suggest cutting rings - about 1/4"+/-. Then the 5" blank will yield 3-4-5 pens with end rings. Just my thought, but even a full length pen will be awesome.

Cheers, Mark

EDIT: I got a message pointing out an error. I meant to suggest cutting the blank into 1/4" +/- rings, not 14" rings...

Now you've really got me thinking. As was suggested I was thinking of cutting rings and 1/4" seems reasonable. Anybody got an idea about the wood. It was given to me and at first I thought it was oak but it is quite heavy. I know it is hard to tell from photos but I was wondering if the face grain is a clue. I have another piece that I plan to use.

 

[NGLJ]

Stave blank making is a whole lot different than slot cutting. As mentioned with staves you get face grain on all sides of the blank. With slot cutting you get 2 face grain that transfer to side grain. Just as if you cut a slice lengthwise out of a board. Both require a sled of sorts to adapt to the tool being used weather bandsaw or tablesaw. Getting the correct angles is needed also when cutting staves. Cutting slots is just a matter of indexing the amount of slots needed. Now if using acrylics of one color then no need to cut staves. Slots work well.

My suggestion to the OP is to use more contrasting woods to highlight the stripes. But his effort opens many possibilities. Nice job.

I am still at the experimental stage and the choice of woods will come with experience. Right now I am just grabbing what is to hand. Being a newbie to pen turning it didn't occur to me about cutting slots. Using staves is a carryover from bowl segmenting. With bowls you have a lot more wiggle room but pen blanks is a more of a challenge. Cutting the correct angles is the hard part. At first I tried on the tablesaw but I decided that I need to keep my fingers. So I switched to the bandsaw which I found much easier and much safer when cutting narrow stock and you waste a lot less material. So many things to try and not enough years left to do it.

 

[KMCloonan]

Here is a link for the start of my journey: Link.

Thanks for sharing Mark. Lots of inspiration there. (and I am sure lots of perspiration went into those efforts!)

 

[mark james]

Thanks for sharing Mark. Lots of inspiration there. (and I am sure lots of perspiration went into those efforts!)

Yes, a bit of a learning curve, as well that some machinery/jigs are helpful. But as noted above, there are several ways to do this type of segmenting and each method has advantages and disadvantages. Each will get good results after a few "oh sh.t" moments.

If you are interested in pursuing this, PM me and I'll give what meager advice my failing memory can recall... Or I will just make it up! I have no secrets, and love seeing what others come up with. All is well.

 

[Joebobber]

I would try this but with no tablesaw and a harbor freight p.o.s. bandsaw I have to just dream...

 

[NGLJ]

Getting a good quality bandsaw and blades made a huge difference to my woodworking. I had a ho hum bandsaw for 20 yrs before that. The difference was quite remarkable. I guess that is true of pretty much every tool that we use. It can just take a while, and more money, to realize that. I had the same experience when I bought a Sawstop cabinet saw. I will write about Sawstop and safety in a separate post.

I think that I have identified the wood in the staved blank that I made. My first thought was oak but it was much heavier than typical oak and it was very smooth like a heavy, very hard wood. Wood Database to the rescue. It turns out that it may well be oak but not a common variety. I weighed a fairly large piece and adjusted the moisture to 12% and I got 59 lb/ft cubed. I compared the face grain picture and the only thing that made any sense was Live Oak (63 lb/ft cubed), native to the southern US and not typically available commercially. Without the appropriate magnification I could not check the end grain well but it looked OK. I never knew there was such a heavy oak. How this wood found its way to western Canada and into my good and very generous woodworker friend's hands is indeed strange. I will ask him the next time that I see him. His wood stock is a veritable treasure trove that he has accumulated over many years. It contains many expensive pieces. Every time I visit him I always come away with some useful piece of wood, especially now he knows that I am making pens where small pieces are can be used. Recently, I casually asked him if he had a small piece of jet black ebony. His reply "how much would you like?". He pulled out a piece 2" x 3" x 36" and cut of a 6" piece for me!

The staved blank that I made has 6 staves. I decided that was not a big enough challenge. So I tried 12 staves. I hope to show the result soon.

 

[jrista]

Getting a good quality bandsaw and blades made a huge difference to my woodworking. I had a ho hum bandsaw for 20 yrs before that. The difference was quite remarkable. I guess that is true of pretty much every tool that we use. It can just take a while, and more money, to realize that. I had the same experience when I bought a Sawstop cabinet saw. I will write about Sawstop and safety in a separate post.

What brand and model of bandsaw would you consider to be that good quality level?

 

[Joebobber]

I got my harbor frieght 14" pile of junk off Facebook for $50 about 4 years ago. It worked great then but it didn't last long

 

[Joebobber]

What brand and model of bandsaw would you consider to be that good quality level?

Going off his Jet lathe review, Im guessing its a 1214 Laguna

 

[NGLJ]

Yes, 1214 Laguna. There are a number of good quality bandsaws if you have the money. That's always the rub. What made me decide on Laguna is the blade support system. Properly adjusted it holds the blade rock solid with minimal deflection which makes for clean, accurate cuts. Of course, replacing the ceramic blocks isn't cheap and thankfully I am nowhere near that yet.

 

[jrista]

Yes, 1214 Laguna. There are a number of good quality bandsaws if you have the money. That's always the rub. What made me decide on Laguna is the blade support system. Properly adjusted it holds the blade rock solid with minimal deflection which makes for clean, accurate cuts. Of course, replacing the ceramic blocks isn't cheap and thankfully I am nowhere near that yet.

I've had my eye on the PowerMatic 100 year 14". Its a better price than their normal 14", $1399, and I am just itching to pull the trigger. I know PowerMatic is pretty darn good...but I've been wondering if there was any reason not to get the 100 year anniversary one (the normal 14" is like $1800 or around there.)

 

[NGLJ]

Here in Canada we don't enjoy US prices. We pay way more than the currency conversion. If you buy from the US by the time you allow for shipping and customs it isn't usually worth it, and of course there is warrantee to consider. Powermatic is indeed a very good make but tends to be way too expensive here.

 

[NGLJ]

Oh My! Very well done. Just a few pictures for ideas... I have not gone back to these for quite a few months, but once you get the hang of the precision for staves, the possibilities will last a lifetime. I hope to do more this winter. Please ask any Q's.

As to your blank, I'd suggest cutting rings - about 1/4"+/-. Then the 5" blank will yield 3-4-5 pens with end rings. Just my thought, but even a full length pen will be awesome.

Cheers, Mark

EDIT: I got a message pointing out an error. I meant to suggest cutting the blank into 1/4" +/- rings, not 14" rings...

Clearly I have a very long way to go! I will have to reserve making laminations for the insert pieces for now. Got to get the basics right first.

 

[NGLJ]

I have attached a few pics of the what I think is Live Oak that I used in the stave blank. I forgot to use a sanding sealer and discovered why you should always use one, especially if dealing with a wood that is new to you. I use diluted shellac. If there are better products please let me know. The CA finish leached the black extractives from the wood and covered everything in a mucky grey color . So sand back to bare wood and start again.