mapletree
Member
How to make? Closed end one piece 10"modified slimline desk pen.
Modified 10" slimline desk pen.
- Thread starter mapletree
- Start date
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MedWoodWorx
Member
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
I turned some dip pens for my brother a few years back. You would have to modify some aspects, but I suspect it would work. In the headstock I used a typical pin chuck; in the tailstock I used two different systems. 1) a small rotating steb center. 2) a holder for a ball bearing insert (the name escapes my memory, others will recognize it - ava from Hardware Depts). Both worked fine. The first method needed me to part it off and hand sand the end. The second methold had me turn the end first, then insert it into the holder and had minimal hand sanding. Good luck.
Edit: Here is an example of the inserts (Amazon): Miniature Ball Bearings.
Edit: Here is an example of the inserts (Amazon): Miniature Ball Bearings.
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its_virgil
Member
Use what Mark posted. Look on the library for two articles by me (Don Ward). One is making one piece slimline pens and the other is one piece improvements. There may be an article by me on making a desk pen using the slimline kit. Desk pen article attached.
You can also make the slimline as a standard two piece with the upper barrel longer and closed end.
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johncrane
Member
well-done Mike! good thinking out-side the box
egnald
Member
I made one a while back using a PSI Premium Designer NT kit. I used that kit because I prefer a Parker style refill over the Cross type found in Slimline and regular Designer NT style pens, but I think my procedure could be adapted to work with a Slimline. Here is a link to the post from 2020 "Euro Style Desktop Twist Pen and Holder".
I built the lower tube part of the pen just as one would for a typical pen (per the instructions of course). However, for the top part of the pen, I started with a full 5" blank and did the following:
- Drilled a little more than 2" inches deep with the typical drill to accommodate the brass tube (8mm drill).
- Glued in the Tube being careful not to use too much glue or to get any into the leading edge of the tube when I inserted it.
- Used a standard barrel trimmer for squaring. (The only way I could figure out how to guarantee square of the blank to the tube).
- Turned it between centers using the center bushing on the headstock end for sizing and a live center on the tailstock end.
- Finished it while it was still mounted using my standard CA regimen and MicroMesh.
- Cut an angle on the top and sanded it smooth.
- Carefully painted the fresh end with CA and MicroMeshed.
- Buffed
- Assembled
Granted, there is still a "twist" point and a center band instead of just being a single body, but I'm pretty happy with it. Actually I like that I can still retract the refill when it is not in use.
Regards,
Dave
PS It is actually longer than it looks in the picture. I think it must be because of parallax.
I built the lower tube part of the pen just as one would for a typical pen (per the instructions of course). However, for the top part of the pen, I started with a full 5" blank and did the following:
- Drilled a little more than 2" inches deep with the typical drill to accommodate the brass tube (8mm drill).
- Glued in the Tube being careful not to use too much glue or to get any into the leading edge of the tube when I inserted it.
- Used a standard barrel trimmer for squaring. (The only way I could figure out how to guarantee square of the blank to the tube).
- Turned it between centers using the center bushing on the headstock end for sizing and a live center on the tailstock end.
- Finished it while it was still mounted using my standard CA regimen and MicroMesh.
- Cut an angle on the top and sanded it smooth.
- Carefully painted the fresh end with CA and MicroMeshed.
- Buffed
- Assembled
Granted, there is still a "twist" point and a center band instead of just being a single body, but I'm pretty happy with it. Actually I like that I can still retract the refill when it is not in use.
Regards,
Dave
PS It is actually longer than it looks in the picture. I think it must be because of parallax.
mapletree
Member
I appreciate all of your posts. My problem is getting the upper tube glued up in the blind hole to make it like a regular modified slimline pen.
egnald
Member
The only thing I can think of offhand is to either leave the center band as a separator. You could also turn the very top to the right diameter then use the cap without the clip to add a matching plated accent to the top. - Dave