Micro-mesh

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While I can't give you a specific number of uses, I do personally think it's far fewer than the value they bring. It's also very difficult to tell when many of the grits are even worn away because of how fine they are to begin with. I switched to paper adhesive and cut fresh little squares when doing a series of grits. I know I'm getting the abrasive power as advertised every time.
 
Use water as a lubricant and they last a very long time. No way to give exact time value. You will notice when that perfect shine is not happening any more. Have a fresh set and compare often.
 
I stopped using micro mesh a long time ago. I'll wet sand with sandpaper, I start with 320, then 320, 400, 600, 1000, then I use a plastic polish. Everything comes out crystal clear, I use that method on all materials. You do need to build up a little heat with the plastic polish, only enough to where you can't take anymore on your finger so that you don't damage the material.
 
I have been turning pens and using Abranet and MicroMesh for about 8 years. I am currently on my second set of each. I keep the MM pads in a container of water and use them on both CA and "acrylics."

My $0.02.
Tomas
 
I like MM but chuck the bit when it looks a bit tired. As has been said "sand as if some one is giving you the paper".

Mist admit to not following this advice most of the time. I tell myself why am I spending a fortune ( SWMBO will not be reading this ) on blanks, kits and my time to make it then skimping by being tight on sand paper and re using a bit that's clearly past its best.

Note although I keep telling myself this I still have a box of odds n ends which gets rummaged through first most times šŸ˜Š.
 
ramaroodle said:
I've been using EEE instead of MM, then PlastX. What does Kirk's do differently than EEE?
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I've never used EEE, and to be honest, I don't know how Dr. Kirk's works. I do know that there are three grades of Kirk's. It's also a LOT less expensive.

www.woodturnerscatalog.com

Dr. Kirk's Micro Magic Polishing Wax 3 Piece Set

Dr. Kirkā€™s Micro Magic is a revolutionary new micro crystalline sanding system developed specifically for creating a flawless surface on turned acrylic, polyester and stabilized woods. Dr. Kirkā€™s Micro Magic is an easy 3 step system that works its magic in only minutes leaving you with a perfect...
www.woodturnerscatalog.com www.woodturnerscatalog.com
 
So, tell me how bad this is: I use the micromesh pads - lubricated with my homemade abrasive paste (Diatomaceous earth, beeswax and mineral oil). I use abranet up to 600, then then add the abrasive paste with a paper towel with the lathe at a high speed to melt that wax in. I then go through the course of MM up to 13000 with just a touch of the paste at 1200. It stays "wet" all the way through, and if I feel it getting dry, I add a touch more. When done, I wipe it down with a shop towel. At that point I've been finishing with a "Canadian" version of Shine Juice (shellac, boiled linseed oil, 91% isopropyl alcohol because denatured alcohol isn't really a thing up here). Yesterday I decided to try a CA finish instead of the shine juice. Following 6 coats of thin, I went over it again with the same MM pads, still oily and waxy from the paste. I think it looks good, but I really don't have much to compare it to.
 
aldjmc said:
So, tell me how bad this is: I use the micromesh pads - lubricated with my homemade abrasive paste (Diatomaceous earth, beeswax and mineral oil). I use abranet up to 600, then then add the abrasive paste with a paper towel with the lathe at a high speed to melt that wax in. I then go through the course of MM up to 13000 with just a touch of the paste at 1200. It stays "wet" all the way through, and if I feel it getting dry, I add a touch more. When done, I wipe it down with a shop towel. At that point I've been finishing with a "Canadian" version of Shine Juice (shellac, boiled linseed oil, 91% isopropyl alcohol because denatured alcohol isn't really a thing up here). Yesterday I decided to try a CA finish instead of the shine juice. Following 6 coats of thin, I went over it again with the same MM pads, still oily and waxy from the paste. I think it looks good, but I really don't have much to compare it to.
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Not sure what you want us to tell you. You evidently like the outcome. I am 100000000% sure no one else here is doing this. To me adding a abrasive compound to basically sandpaper (MM) is not the thing to do at all. You are defeating the purpose of the MM. I will not be the one to tell you not to do what you are doing because I have no idea in the world what it is you are doing. (that shine juice makes no sense to me either. Rubbing alcohol has water in it and add that to shellac, not good.) again have fun.
 
+1
You seem to be adding lots of steps and chemicals to the process. It seems like overkill but if it works for you great. I personally wouldn't want all of that underneath the CA. I want smooth dry wood under my CA. Why use paste with the mmesh? If you want to use paste you could probably skip most of the micro mesh. I think denatured alcohol is just Coleman stove fuel.

There is no right and wrong way so whatever works for you works for you.
 
aldjmc said:
So, tell me how bad this is: I use the micromesh pads - lubricated with my homemade abrasive paste (Diatomaceous earth, beeswax and mineral oil). I use abranet up to 600, then then add the abrasive paste with a paper towel with the lathe at a high speed to melt that wax in. I then go through the course of MM up to 13000 with just a touch of the paste at 1200. It stays "wet" all the way through, and if I feel it getting dry, I add a touch more. When done, I wipe it down with a shop towel. At that point I've been finishing with a "Canadian" version of Shine Juice (shellac, boiled linseed oil, 91% isopropyl alcohol because denatured alcohol isn't really a thing up here). Yesterday I decided to try a CA finish instead of the shine juice. Following 6 coats of thin, I went over it again with the same MM pads, still oily and waxy from the paste. I think it looks good, but I really don't have much to compare it to.
Click to expand...

Are you using this method on wood, acrylic, or both?
 
jttheclockman said:
Not sure what you want us to tell you. You evidently like the outcome. I am 100000000% sure no one else here is doing this. To me adding a abrasive compound to basically sandpaper (MM) is not the thing to do at all. You are defeating the purpose of the MM. I will not be the one to tell you not to do what you are doing because I have no idea in the world what it is you are doing. (that shine juice makes no sense to me either. Rubbing alcohol has water in it and add that to shellac, not good.) again have fun.
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A few things: #1 I have no idea what I am doing either! Just trying things out on cheap kits with cheap blanks! I've done this process exactly once, and the finish seems OK... but certainly could be better!
#2 The general consensus among the Canadian Woodworking forums on Shine Juice is that Isopropyl "works" but not the 70% stuff. I have some 91% that is "meh", i didn't add much to the mix, certainly not 1/3.
#3 Thanks for your thoughts ... I figured I was probably unique in my approach, wasn't sure if the MM / Paste combo was a waste of time, or effort, or both.
 
ramaroodle said:
+1
You seem to be adding lots of steps and chemicals to the process. It seems like overkill but if it works for you great. I personally wouldn't want all of that underneath the CA. I want smooth dry wood under my CA. Why use paste with the mmesh? If you want to use paste you could probably skip most of the micro mesh. I think denatured alcohol is just Coleman stove fuel.

There is no right and wrong way so whatever works for you works for you.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
A good while ago, 13 - 14 years at least, there was a post here about Bell Helicopter that used MicroMesh for getting the tiny scratches out of the polycarbonate shields. Of course, that is Polycarbonate/Lexan, and not CA or cast blanks. There can be and are differences in different materials and how each respond to different kinds of polish/sanding.

Here is a PDF link that is interesting on the subject: https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/KR70_Instruction.pdf
 
Angus, again I am not discouraging you at all. Just pointed out a few facts that I know of. But if you feel comfortble with using it than who are we to say you are wrong. So many ways to get things done.
 
I have recently decided to stop using MM and really can't feel a difference in the finish. I use my normal method to make the blank and sand to 400. I don't really see a need to sand to 600. I use GluBoost and apply a few coats of "Blue" fill and finish then use .0000 steel wool or 600 sandpaper and blow the dust off with compressed air. When applying the GB I have the lathe off and wipe in straight strokes across the blank making sure to not turn the blank while I am wiping which gives a much smoother finish. I only make one or 2 swipes across each section because ridges form as the glue dries, with GB accelerator after each coat. Then the same technique with 2-3 coats of "Orange". Not one pen with any frosting or bubbling in the finish. I wait a few minutes for it to cure then depending on how it feels I use 600 or steel wool again then, again depending on how it feels I'll use EEE or go straight to Plastix polish. Quicker, dryer, less mess and same results IMO when I compare them to blanks that I made using MM. YMMV, but I just filled a 30 pen custom order with decals and engraving and was able to turn and finish a blank with a decal in less than 15 mins. (plus engraving time for the engraved blanks).
A few examples. Sorry about the focus being a little off.
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