Micro Mesh Sanding

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wudnhed

wudnhed

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I have been in contact with a turner who did not know what Micro Mesh was. I know this info is old news to alot of us but maybe needs to be reposted for the newbies.

Micro mesh is a sanding cloth that comes in grades 1500 to 12,000. A great sanding technique for pens.

Anyone else care to add anything?[^]
 
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My Dad has been turning for years and when I bought him a set of MM recently he was astounded by the finish it left on his small turnings. Of course I had to replace the 2 highest grits as he cooked them the first couple of uses before he learned to slow down and be easy on the pressure.
 
Was reading the most current issue of American Woodturner last night. Nice article on new sanding papers and related products.
 
Anyone else care to add anything?
Click to expand...

Uh, yep. There is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. Abralon works just as well and lasts just as long if not longer. Grits to 4000 which is equal to or maybe even a bit finer than MM's 12,000 microns. Tried some samples of MM on a catalized polyurethane finish (auotomotive clear) and wasn't impressed. I'm not saying though that others will not be satified with it since most will be using a softer finish. The thing is to remember that one can use things from outside the box. Just because it specifically isn't made or marketed for wood or penturners doesn't mean it won't work so don't be afraid to give something a try.
 
Hello to the group,

I've been using Micro Mesh (MM) for years in my studio, it's one of my favorite abrasives. Micro Mesh can be used either wet, or dry. I prefer to use it dry most of the time.[:D] It's available in nine grits from 1500 - 12000-grit. At 12000-grit the human eye cannot see the surface scratch pattern, essentially rendering the scratches invisible. It is used extensively in the aircraft industry to remove scratches from fighter airplane canopies and commercial jetliner windows.

Traditional abrasive crystals are electrically charged during manufacture so that they will stand up on the face of the paper. A hard resin is applied to secure the abrasive crystals to the paper. When you use a traditional paper backed abrasive, the abrasive crystals tear and cut the substrate with a negative raking motion. The result of this is an inconsistent surface scratch pattern. This can be easily verified under a microscopic examination of the abraded surface.

MM is a very different animal. MM features a flexible cloth backing. A flexible cushioning layer is applied to the fabric face. A flexible adhesive is applied to secure the abrasive crystals. This leaves the completed abrasive sheet totally flexible, unlike a traditional paper backed abrasive. The main difference with MM, is that the abrasive crystals can move in any direction, without coming loose. Instead of an inconsistent tearing as you get with traditional abrasives, MM produces a planing cut that leaves a uniformly cut surface. This allows you to produce a very deep gloss on the surface.

Care must be taken when using MM on the lathe. If it gets too hot, the abrasive and latex can transfer onto your woodturning. [:0] A light touch is the key here and making sure you keep the MM moving all the time. When I'm finishing alternative material pens and similar materials, I use MM dry with the lathe revs set to 3,900 RPM from start to finish. When dry sanding at these high speeds, you have to have a good protocol, or you can get "transference" of the latex and the abrasive. Using MM wet helps to eliminate this, but you still have to have a good protocol, or you can run into trouble. Most turners prefer to use MM at lower speeds... I'm a production turner, so I prefer high-speed application protocols.

If anyone is interested, I will post my well tested and proven high speed MM protocol, just let me know. Maybe I can take a few photos as well to make the protocol easier to understand. MM is very durable and if cared for properly, will last quite a long time. When the surface is clogged, it can be easily washed to return it to like new condition. Although MM is expensive, its long term durability makes it an economical product to use. Take care and all the best to you and yours!
 
Thank you, Steve. I got started with the MicroMesh when I first started. It was suggested to me by a gentleman at a "local" Rockler store. It's all I've used. I did find on one wood I used it on, it became too hot and melted some of the layer of cloth/abrasive. That's when I picked up on the "lighter touch."

It's really great to use and gives a nice clean wood surface to finish. [8D] (that's my unprofessional, not terribly experienced opinion.)[:D]

I would like to know how you clean them.
Cathy Sue
 
What an interesting coincidence!! I just emailed Jeff a copy of the MM chart that shows the grit equivalent between MM and sandpaper for posting in the IAP reference library. I'll post it here too just for reference. Note that 1500 grit MM is about the same as 400 grit sandpaper; but as Steve mentions the scratch pattern will be different so a 1500 MM sanding will be nicer than a 400 grit sandpaper finish.

I would take exception to using MM on a lathe spinning at 3900 RPMs. I see no reason to sand pens at more than 500 to 1000 RPMs. Certainly, you will add a few seconds to the sanding process; significantly reduce the risk of "burning" your MM.



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Hey Randy, thanks for the table!!!!!!!!

I also learned something new, I'm going to slow my lathe way down next time I sand a pen and see how it works.
 
Hello Cathy,

To clean my Micro Mesh sheets, I use a regular small mesh laundry bag (like women use for small delicate items) and simply add them to a load of wash (cold water). We use either All Free and Clear, or Sixth Generation laundry detergent.

This has worked the best for me through the years and it seems to produce the cleanest sheets. The mesh bag keeps the sheets from getting caught under the agitator or abrading the sides of the wash tub.

Note: Do not dry your MM, as the heat can damage the sheets. Simply lay them flat on a towel, or sweater rack and let dry overnight. If you have any additional questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and best wishes to you and yours!
 
I have been using MM for a while now (mostly on homebrew polyresin) .. and it is the darnedest thing ... I like to wet-sand, it just seems to give the light dust "somewhere to go" as it floats off .. I do not like soaking the lathe in water, so I use DNA .. here is the "darnedest" tag, does DNA somehow loosen or dissolve one of the MM layers ... I also sand at a fairly slow speed (600-800) and """try""" to maintain a light touch and constantly moving MM ... Occasionally, I will be welcomed with a torn-out, separated layer of MM .. a little plug about the size of a #2 pencil eraser ... it has happened off-and-on with most grades of MM ... I have three sets, so I still have plenty of surface to go, but it just kills me to tear up the MM ...

What gives ???? Anyone? Anyone? Beuhler? [:D]
 
I wash my MM by putting it in a Tupperware bowl with water, liquid dish washing soap, put the lid on and shake vigorously. Rinse several times and then I hang them on a line in my shop to dry... Works for me.
 
I am a little curious as to how others present the MM to the turning. I tend to fold mine in half length-wise - it now has a permanent crease along the half that I use the most. Problem is (probably from my early, heavy-handed days) that along that crease, I have a number of bare spots! I'm guessing it just got too hot.

Anyway - do others fold, cut into smaller pieces, or just deal with the full width of the sheet?

Thanks!
 
The MM have came from Rockler and was already cut into smaller pieces than full sheets. The pieces were 3" x 6" in size and were probably cut off of rolls rather than from flat sheets?? I cut each piece in half and find that to be a very convenient size to use for sanding pens. (1-1/2" x 3")
 
I cut my 6"x3" sheets so the end up being 1 1/2"x 6" that way I end up with 2 sets. When 1 set is dirty and needs cleaning, I still have another to sand with.
 
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