micro bubbles

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joeatact

joeatact

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
473
Location
Lakeland, Fl.
I get lots of microscopic bubbles at curing stage... lots! There seemed to be none to start with when its sitting in the mold, but only after 7-10mins in they all come out stuck to the artrwork or sticker. I have covered my artwork with matt modge podge?

Course I am new at this any ideas?
 
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When I use modge podge I use the glossy. Matte finish means a bit rough...as in not smooth...and little bubbles like to stick to rough surfaces.

Fill the tubes with play dough...expells the air. air is the enemy.

on what is the art work printed?label? What number? what brand? Yes, it does make a difference. What is the sticker?

Are you painting PR on the labels/;tubes prior to casting?

Have you tried painting catalyzed PR onto the tubes/;abels and letting it cure before casting?

Do you heat the resin to thin it for easier escaping of air? do you vibrate or use ultrasonics?

Lots of variables...lots of enemies. I do wish it were an exact science.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

joeatact said:
I get lots of microscopic bubbles at curing stage... lots! There seemed to be none to start with when its sitting in the mold, but only after 7-10mins in they all come out stuck to the artrwork or sticker. I have covered my artwork with matt modge podge?

Course I am new at this any ideas?
Click to expand...
 
Indeed. I have coated thousands of labels while in the military...electronics serial numbers. And most were then encapsulated in resin.

The process started with the labels being set and sealed with resin. Once cured then the item was further treated.

When I tried the set the labels and then encapsulate without the resin skin layer it nearly always lifted and bubbled.

Perhaps this was your culprit? As mentioned before by virgil, seal the label with resin first.

Good luck!

Raymond :bananen_smilies027:
 
Thanks guys will give it a try.

I do heat the material and use ultra sound. Funny thing is that all looks great
for about 5-7 minutes then all of a sudden they form against the material
 
I use Mod Podge to glue the paper to the tube it works great. BUT I tried coating the other surface to seal it and have not had success. I get a reaction the Mod Podge goes milky and in some cases I got the slivery air layer. I did only give it a 24 hr. cure time and I don't post cure just put the cast out side post cure in the day sun.

What I do now and it's working great to seal the paper and prevent air from leaching out and bubbles from sticking to. Is I give my blanks a CA coating almost like finishing a wood pen blank. It's easy and quick. After I glue the paper to the tube and that glue is dry I put the tube on the lathe using delrin finishing bushings I give it 2 coats of medium CA. It seals it real nice and have a fairly smooth glossy finish a little bit of a ripple but that doesn't matter. Now I leave the CA dry at least 24 hrs. even though CA feels dry rite away It's not it will continue to out gas for at least 24 hr. On an open air pen it not an issue but trap it in resin now you have a problem. Oh I don't use paper towel to apply the CA I use thin foam wrap like the stuff that would protect electronics it is about the as thick as a business card. A plastic baggie would work also be sure to wear gloves.

Just thought I would share that.

good luck
 
I was using mod podge and even suggested its use in this thread. But, I too have stopped using it as a covering because of what Bruce just said. I have been getting that milky appearance. It just started after several successful episodes of using it. Like Bruce, I do glue some stuff to the tubes using mod podge. CA is a good outer coating over stuff stuck to the tubes. Acrylic clear fingernail polish has worked and is an easy application.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

bruce119 said:
I use Mod Podge to glue the paper to the tube it works great. BUT I tried coating the other surface to seal it and have not had success. I get a reaction the Mod Podge goes milky and in some cases I got the slivery air layer.
Click to expand...
 
bruce119 said:
I use Mod Podge to glue the paper to the tube it works great. BUT I tried coating the other surface to seal it and have not had success. I get a reaction the Mod Podge goes milky and in some cases I got the slivery air layer. I did only give it a 24 hr. cure time and I don't post cure just put the cast out side post cure in the day sun.

What I do now and it's working great to seal the paper and prevent air from leaching out and bubbles from sticking to. Is I give my blanks a CA coating almost like finishing a wood pen blank. It's easy and quick. After I glue the paper to the tube and that glue is dry I put the tube on the lathe using delrin finishing bushings I give it 2 coats of medium CA. It seals it real nice and have a fairly smooth glossy finish a little bit of a ripple but that doesn't matter. Now I leave the CA dry at least 24 hrs. even though CA feels dry rite away It's not it will continue to out gas for at least 24 hr. On an open air pen it not an issue but trap it in resin now you have a problem. Oh I don't use paper towel to apply the CA I use thin foam wrap like the stuff that would protect electronics it is about the as thick as a business card. A plastic baggie would work also be sure to wear gloves.

Just thought I would share that.

good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks Bruce!! I just purchased some Modge Podge to give a try last week!!

I also use that spongy foam stuff. It is great and doesn't react to the CA and allows you to get a nice smooth finish on your surface. This is the only way I can get a decent CA finish...
 
It's casting fun it never ends we keep pushing the envelope. There is no how to book yes on the basics BUT we are way beyond the basics. It is all experimental.

FUN STUFF $$$$$$

.
 
speaking about not waiting after you apply ca to coat your item.

DSC03653.jpg
 
Oh you used Alumilite. I don't use Alumilite But I do know that Alumilite is VERY, VERY should I say it again VERY water moisture sensitive. Just the slightest hint of moisture will cause failure. One of the reasons I stop using it long ago and you say you used Mod Podge a water based glue. Now I remember reading on one of the Mod Podge labels I think it was a over coat Mod Podge there are different types. But any way that it said it was not fully cured for 2 weeks that is not to wash it with water for 2 weeks. Now I would be willing to bet that if you over coated Mod Podge that is surly your problem. I would have glued it down with CA or Mod Podge. Then if need gave a over coat of CA then cast with Polyester resin I use Silmar 41 with 3-4 drops of cyst per once. Now I said if need a CA over coat the main reason I use the CA over coat is to prevent wetting of the resin. When label casting you can run into a problem of the paper wetting and going dark and transparent. That is why most paint the tube white. But if you put an over coat of CA it will seal the paper and you will not have this problem.

Good luck
 
No More Bubbles

stampcolleting.jpg



Gave up on alumilite went back to simular 41. No Bubbles although the simular removed the white paint on the tube.
 
joeatact said:
stampcolleting.jpg



Gave up on alumilite went back to simular 41. No Bubbles although the simular removed the white paint on the tube.
Click to expand...

Go to the hobby shop and get some testers email spray paint a little expensive for a small can but well worth. CA will not attack it and it will stand the PR. I need to find a cheaper source.

PR is the way to go.
 
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