Micarta

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
chartle

chartle

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
1,287
Location
Pgh, PA
I did a search and found a few posts that mention micarta but not a lot of how to.

I've checked out some videos but not for what I was using.

I'm trying to expand the design of my pool cue pen, it got to the finals of the unlimited slimline contest. I've been googleing images of pool cues and came upon a few that appeared to use veneers in the design.

Stated to thing of how to make micro veneer but then thought maybe paper, then colored paper and then thought construction paper. Its already colored and it should really soak up the resin.

I got a fresh pack from the dollar store, cut it into 1.5" strips and made a mold from an old cutting board.

Mixed up some PR with less drops than normal so it didn't set up on me too quickly. Poured the resin into the mold and started to add paper one sheet at a time. I made sure each sheet was thoroughly immersed before adding the next sheet. I then added a top of more cutting board and then clamped it.

Let it go over night and tried to unmold it but the PR wasn't set. But there was another issue I may have clamped it too tightly. I don't think there is enough resin to keep the sheets together.

Every time I've seen micarta made they really put the screws to it. Next time* I'll maybe just weight it down but has anyone else tried construction paper and is PR a good choice versus epoxy?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
* oh and next time maybe spring when I can open up the basement door. Caught hell for stinking up the house.
 
Why use resin.? I've used construction paper to make inlays and simply brush on white glue as I apply layers then clamp up to dry.
 
Mr Vic said:
Why use resin.? I've used construction paper to make inlays and simply brush on white glue as I apply layers then clamp up to dry.
Click to expand...

How many layers and how long does it take for the center to dry?

My first quick attempt was to make a full size slim line blank from just construction paper micarta.

I think I'm going to make a quick inlay with maybe 6 or 8 layers with some 5 min epoxy and just work fast. Also I'll just weight it down versus putting the screws to it. :)
 
Caution along the way.

Paper joints have been used for decades for split turnings. The paper provides a weak plane that separates easily if the glue does not totally saturate the paper.

On the other hand I have glued pulp fiction books with thinned PVA glue but setting/drying time takes several days for several layers.
 
chartle said:
Mr Vic said:
Why use resin.? I've used construction paper to make inlays and simply brush on white glue as I apply layers then clamp up to dry.
Click to expand...

How many layers and how long does it take for the center to dry?

My first quick attempt was to make a full size slim line blank from just construction paper micarta.

I think I'm going to make a quick inlay with maybe 6 or 8 layers with some 5 min epoxy and just work fast. Also I'll just weight it down versus putting the screws to it. :)
Click to expand...

As I recall I let it dry over night at a minimum. The strips were about 3/4 in wide and I clamped in a bench vice. Drying to time will vary. I'm at altitude in Colorado and made these in summer when the air is warm and very, very dry. I used generous amounts of glue but the paper was not quite saturated.
 
Maybe I am not following your intentions. But when you say paper. What kind of paper??? You looking to use colored paper. How thin is that. It would take quite a bit of a stack to make a pen blank. even a slimline. Remember paper is basically wood so it does have a grain to it. You would want all the grain running the same way. If using colored construction paper. that can have drawbacks as well. It is made from layers of paper and if not soaked all the way through it could delaminate.

My suggestion is to use wood veneers. You can get them at Atlas billiards or even Woodcraft sells some colors. They are thick enough and can be glued with titebond II wood glue. This way when turned the different colors show up well. many patterns can be made. Many uses for pool cue pens.
 
Micarta as I was taught is urea formaldehyde resin saturated cloth cured under heat and clamping pressure. The version using paper was Formica until the patents ran out and became generally known as Plastic Laminate. Solid colours are a more recent thing.

Unless you want to wrap the tubes laminating solid colour sheets of plastic laminate would be the easiest way to make blanks. An alternative would be to laminate sheets of guitar pick guard.
 
Ok little more info I'm trying to expand the design my pool cue pen

Pool%20Pen%201.jpg


I'm try to replicate something like this.

FUKF05comp.jpg


Wood veneers are way too thick, thats when I thought of using construction paper. I got some paper and thought why don't I try to make entire blank out of construction paper using the micarta technique with PR. It didn't work out as well as I expected so asked here.

Today I'll try just making a thinner inlay with 5 min epoxy to see how it works in the design.
 
It can be done there are several videos of knife makers using paper to make Micarta. The thickness shouldn't prevent the resin cure, it's a chemical reaction, not solvent dissipation into the air. I have been experimenting as well. Conquered cloth Micarta pretty easily. Made a thin piece of paper Micarta, and need to keep experimenting. I think PR for casting might not be the right stuff, I'm going to look into laminating types of resin, like they use for skate board decks and the like.
 
I've been thinking about this more and more and I think I understand my problem with construction paper.

With cloth the resin can really soak in and the natural voids of the weave mean in the end there is a continuous "matrix" of resin.

While the paper soaks in in pretty good it doesn't leave any resin to actually bond the paper together.

I'm going to make some this afternoon not so thick and with epoxy (can't use PR until it warms up and I can open the basement door :frown:). I'll also just weigh it down a little bit and not clamp it to death.
 
chartle said:
I've been thinking about this more and more and I think I understand my problem with construction paper.

With cloth the resin can really soak in and the natural voids of the weave mean in the end there is a continuous "matrix" of resin.

While the paper soaks in in pretty good it doesn't leave any resin to actually bond the paper together.

I'm going to make some this afternoon not so thick and with epoxy (can't use PR until it warms up and I can open the basement door :frown:). I'll also just weigh it down a little bit and not clamp it to death.
Click to expand...


This video may interest you


https://youtu.be/CKG9Nqwi1e4
 
Last edited:
I'm wondering if stabilizing with cactus juice after gluing with CA would work to strengthen the paper joint. I've used CA and colored paper in the past for lines through a pen but it was thin. I've also used felt and medium CA when gluing up and then soaked with thin CA prior to turning. The color is nice but I'm not sure if that's the look your going for. Good luck! and looking forward to seeing your finished work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom