MesquiteMan's Stabilization Unit

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I

itzapen

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
103
Location
Houston Texas
Curtis,
I got your stabilization unit in yesterday and got it all set up last night. Got home today and just finished my first 5 spalted blanks in it and they are all I had hoped for and more. This unit works with such ease that anyone can do this for themselves. It's just that easy. I know I'll never have to send punky, wormy wood to be stabilized again when I can do it myself right in my own shop. Not only can I stabilize, but I can dye blanks at the same time with Alumilite dyes. Such a deal, a great 2 for 1 product. I know you said I can do as many as 15 blanks at a time, but I just wanted to get a feel for the equipment before I go that big. I still am so impressed with the ease with which this operates. Thank you soooooooo much for making such a useful and wonderful product. No more punky blanks tossed out here. I wish you the very best of luck with this, it is surly a very quality item to have in the shop. Everyone who pays for stabilization should have on. Thank again Curtis. U da MAN !
Clyde
 
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Clyde, Thanks for the videos. They will definitely help folks out.

I have found that simply turning the vacuum on and off several times to allow the 'boiling' to end is just as easy as using the relief system used in the videos. It is also way cheaper NOT to make up the relief assembly ... that allows $$$ for more Cactus Juice later on.

I would also definitely suggest some sort of capture device to be used inline in the vacuum line just in case one does get the "Juice" into the vacuum line and possibly into the vacuum pump. :eek: That would be really bad to have ANY fluid get to the pump! ... Been There, Done That.

A small jar that seals very well and that has two fittings soldered in the top to allow the vacuum line to be attached is all that is needed. CAUTION: Be sure and not ruin the gasket around the lid of the capture jar while soldering the fittings in place. You must maintain the vacuum to the pump ... NO LEAKS ALLOWED!

I just used two short pieces of brass tubing placed in the proper sized and drilled holes in the lid and solder them in place. Space them about an inch or so apart. Making one of the tubes slightly longer will help avoid any bleed over of the "Juice" to the other tube. Put the longer tube so that it is attached to the output line from Curtis' chamber. This way any 'Juice' will drip down into the jar.

I cut my vacuum line about 12 inches from the vacuum pot, attached it to the first input (the longer tube) fitting on the bottle, then attached the vacuum line to the other fitting in the lid to continue the vacuum circuit to the pump.

Any fluid that might get sucked up as it 'boils' is then caught by the bottle and the vacuum pump is safe. :biggrin:
 
Depends on what type of vacuum pump you have. I have an oil filled vac pump and when I was doing some testing, I had my head up my behind and sucked quite a bit of cactus juice into my pump. I called the manufacturer to see if this would be an issue and the tech said to just change the oil since these types of pumps are used to sucking up crud from HVAC systems. I changed the oil and all is well. Also, with my pump at least, if you turn it on and off like you suggest, you will damage the pump. As a matter of fact, you are supposed to release the vacuum and let the pump run for 2-3 seconds without any vacuum before you turn it off. If you don't, the next time you turn on the pump, it will spit oil out of the exhaust port and it will also cause premature wear and future damage. Having the bleed valve is the easiest way to deal with this. However, that is why I offer it as an option rather than standard.
 
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great videos Curtis. I have tried that jiggle method a few times. haha


One day I need to get one of these. I have some err quite a few blanks I would like to stabilize.
 
Curtis ... You are definitely right on the oil filled vacuum pumps. I have always used the inline jar setup to avoid the necessity of having to go through the change the oil process. My system has a jar on both the input and exhaust side just to catch any possible goof-ups that occasionally can happen to us all.

Please don't think for an instant that I am/was trying to find fault with your chamber design. I for one like the fact that you can actually watch the magic taking place and like the very easy way of just placing the lid in place and off you go. That is a pretty slick idea.

I believe you have a winning design for all to benefit from. :biggrin:
 
After reading this thread, I can't wait to get started! I am getting everything ready so that I can hit the ground running once the kit arrives. No more soaking punky wood with tons of thin CA!
 
Fred said:
Curtis ... You are definitely right on the oil filled vacuum pumps. I have always used the inline jar setup to avoid the necessity of having to go through the change the oil process. My system has a jar on both the input and exhaust side just to catch any possible goof-ups that occasionally can happen to us all.

Please don't think for an instant that I am/was trying to find fault with your chamber design. I for one like the fact that you can actually watch the magic taking place and like the very easy way of just placing the lid in place and off you go. That is a pretty slick idea.

I believe you have a winning design for all to benefit from. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Fred,

Don't worry, y friend, I did not think that! Besides, I am always open to new ideas and way of doing things!
 
Curtis,
just thought I'd give you a short up-date on this unit. Since I started Thursday night, I have now done 4 loads of blanks counting the load in there now. I started cutting blanks last night and I gotta tell you, they are stabilized all the way through. this is so easy to use, I can't believe it. As soon as this load in there now is finished I am mixing up some Cactus Juice and adding dye to it. I have some spalted maple that I want to dye [FONT=&quot]turquoise and let the black lines add the contrast. They should look good (I hope) LOL. So far I have done 20 blanks with all coming out just perfect and have about 20 more to go. Watching this work is just so much fun it's hard to remember that I should be doing something else.This is the easiest job I have in the shop. Thanks again for a great product that actually does what it say's it will do. [/FONT]Yankee ingenuity, ya gotta love it.
Back to the shop.
Clyde
 
I've been thinking I needed one of Curtis' setups, but now I'm thinking I'll just wait a while. There are going to be so many stabilized blanks for sale they will have to be real cheap!:biggrin:

Just kidding, I'd have one but I can't afford a decent vacuum pump right now. Plus, I know nothing about vacuum pumps. I'd like to have a setup where I could switch the pump between running this chamber and a vacuum chuck on my lathes.
 
I've been looking for discussion about the alumilite dyes in use with this system. Can someone direct me to them or if not in a thread, could someone give some details and suggest "dye-to-juice" amounts? Thanks. Still eagerly awaiting my unit. I've got blanks lined up to stabilize. Now I'm thinking about colors! Let the fun begin.

Martin

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner
 
MartinPens said:
I've been looking for discussion about the alumilite dyes in use with this system. Can someone direct me to them or if not in a thread, could someone give some details and suggest "dye-to-juice" amounts? Thanks. Still eagerly awaiting my unit. I've got blanks lined up to stabilize. Now I'm thinking about colors! Let the fun begin.

Martin

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner
Click to expand...

Dye to Juice amount will be very subjective and will come with just trial and error. Some woods color better than others and some even make the color you thought you were going to come out completely different. I recently did some spanish oak burl with a very dark purple and when I actually turned the blank, it looked more green than anything:confused:.

Just start adding the dye until it looks nice and give it a whirl. Then, on the first batch, if it is not dark enough, add more dye. There is no real forumla.
 
simomatra said:
Thank you Curtis i have watched the videos and impressed.

Does this stuff ship to Oz?
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It SHOULD be able to ship to AU. It is unrestricted as far as the US Postal Service is concerned and can be shipped via air which means I can ship international in the USPS Large Flat Rate Box. The question will be if the AU customs have any funny requirements. I will try to find some information on it. I do know that I can ship to Canada, UK, and Russia so I would bet AU would not be a problem!
 
MesquiteMan said:
simomatra said:
Thank you Curtis i have watched the videos and impressed.

Does this stuff ship to Oz?
Click to expand...

It SHOULD be able to ship to AU. It is unrestricted as far as the US Postal Service is concerned and can be shipped via air which means I can ship international in the USPS Large Flat Rate Box. The question will be if the AU customs have any funny requirements. I will try to find some information on it. I do know that I can ship to Canada, UK, and Russia so I would bet AU would not be a problem!
Click to expand...

Many thank Curtis I am interested in the chamber and what you can fit in a large flat rate can you give me some idea of postage costs
 
mine didnt show up yet. hopefuly monday. have every thing ready. cant wait to play with the dyes. have alot of nice Big Leaf Maple to work with. glad yours is working great. Rick
 
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