making snake blanks

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rangeric43

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
25
Location
sioux city iowa
when making snakeskin blanks i have a problem with the pr eating the skin. I paint the tubes before gluing the skins on. after pouring the resin and it sets up. i look closely at the blanks, the skins are translucent and sometimes gone and the paint behind the skins are gone. not sure on what is causing this problem. i am not using a vacuum system. any ideas? thanks for your input.
 
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are you putting your blanks in a toaster oven after casting them? what are your tanning methods? how many drops of catalyst per ounce are you using? what type of paint are you using to paint your tubes with?
 
100% sure the problem is heat. Here are a couple more questions to add to Seamus' list: How large are your castings...or what molds are you using? larger casts create more heat. What is the ambient temp where you cast? Hot ambient temps allow the curing PR to get hotter than normal. Just some things to think about.
Do a good turn daily!
Don


are you putting your blanks in a toaster oven after casting them? what are your tanning methods? how many drops of catalyst per ounce are you using? what type of paint are you using to paint your tubes with?
 
I use an aluminum pan to cast in and have 5 tubes in the pan. the paint i use under the skins is a can of spray paint. the tanning methods. i do not know as they were purchased in south dakota. temperature wise i do it outside. temp that particular day was mid 70's. cataylst per can instuctions of 7 drops per ounce. could be too much cataylst. next time i pour i will try to less cataylst to keep the heat down.
 
I use an aluminum pan to cast in and have 5 tubes in the pan. the paint i use under the skins is a can of spray paint. the tanning methods. i do not know as they were purchased in south dakota. temperature wise i do it outside. temp that particular day was mid 70's. cataylst per can instuctions of 7 drops per ounce. could be too much cataylst. next time i pour i will try to less cataylst to keep the heat down.


There's your problem! Or at least a HUGE part of it! Try 3 drops per ounce next time. My next question is, are you actually measuring out your resin or guessing? I use graduated mixing cups that measure all the way up to 8oz to my measurements are precise. Don Ward will probably have an excellent come-back on that last sentence, you watch:biggrin::rolleyes:
 
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8 ounce graduated cups but Seamus didn't mention they are graduated in milli-micro ounces. He measures quite precisely. Me, on the other hand, well lets just say I'm not as precise.:biggrin::rolleyes:

And, yes 3 drops works great for me also. Really I use 3.004 drops per ounce. That extra .004 of a drop is the secret, but don't tell Seamus!:biggrin::biggrin:

Do a good turn dsily!
Don

There's your problem! Or at least a HUGE part of it! Try 3 drops per ounce next time. My next question is, are you actually measuring out your resin or guessing? I use graduated mixing cups that measure all the way up to 8oz to my measurements are precise. Don Ward will probably have an excellent come-back on that last sentence, you watch:biggrin::rolleyes:

Do a good turn daily!
Don

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