Making castings

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jttheclockman

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
i am looking to make some white pearlesence blanks. I want the blanks to be pure white, nontransparent and to be pearlecent. Now what i have is only Micheals Pearl X powders. Can I do this??? I am planning on using a 3X6X1 inch mold. I have only clear resins.

If I can do this do you have a ratio for the pearlX. How much do I need to use???
 
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I did this pen using Pearlex. I powder coated the tube white:

JrEmperor1-100308.jpg
 
Scott

You nailed it. That is exactly what I am after. I sent you a PM.

My first attempt at using my pot was a failure. I mixed 2 teaspoons of Mica Pearl White powder from Coastal Scents in a 9 ounce mold with clear Poly resin. First it was a off white color and second it was way too transparent. If adding more material to the mix was the answer than I am probably looking at at least 4 teaspoons if not more. That is quite alot. I need something that gives me the pure white color and then add the shimmer to it.

I left it in the pot for 12 hours and one good thing I found out is not one leak. Kept it on 60PSI for the entire time. Happy about that. But I do see this casting is going to be a huge experiment thing.

I am not sure how different Alumilite reacts as opposed to poly resins and if their characteristics are about the same. I know the contents mix differently but do they take on colors the same and is the mixing ratio the same. I figured I would practice with PR more than using the Alumilite because it is cheaper.
 
John,

I cast this pen directly to the tube (No drilling, air gap, or extra PR loss). I cast in an ice cube tray so the tubes were vertical (that is how I got the swirls to run up/down the length of the pen). Casting vertically to the tube is something I consider to be an "advanced" PR technique. I wouldn't tackle it as my first pour project. That said, here is what I did:

- Powder coated the tube white

- Mixed approx. 3 ounces of PR using 4 drops mekp/oz. Each section used about 1/2 - 3/4 ounce. I would rather waist an ounce or so than have to try and match color because I am 1/4 ounce shy.

- Used Pearl Ex 650 micropearl. I don't measure my pigments, I just keep adding a little until I get to the color I am looking for.

- Used a PP with about 18 - 20 PSI. Left it in overnight (12+ hours)

If I were going to cast a block of PR and drill, I would cast the block @ 60 PSI, paint the inside of the drilled hole white and use white tinted epoxy to glue the tube in.

I see that there is also a Pearl Ex 651 white. I have yet to try it.

Also, I see that you are in New Jersey. Temperature is a HUGE factor when it comes to the PR curing. When I cast in the winter I pour my PR, put it under pressure in the PP out in the garage, then bring the PP in the house and set it in the guest bathroom. I normally will let it stay there 24 - 48 hours. I take the PP outside when I am ready to remove the pressure.
 
Last edited:
Blind_Squirrel said:
John,

I cast this pen directly to the tube (No drilling, air gap, or extra PR loss). I cast in an ice cube tray so the tubes were vertical (that is how I got the swirls to run up/down the length of the pen). Casting vertically to the tube is something I consider to be an "advanced" PR technique. I wouldn't tackle it as my first pour project. That said, here is what I did:

- Powder coated the tube white

- Mixed approx. 3 ounces of PR using 4 drops mekp/oz. Each section used about 1/2 - 3/4 ounce. I would rather waist an ounce or so than have to try and match color because I am 1/4 ounce shy.

- Used Pearl Ex 650 micropearl. I don't measure my pigments, I just keep adding a little until I get to the color I am looking for.

- Used a PP with about 18 - 20 PSI. Left it in overnight (12+ hours)

If I were going to cast a block of PR and drill, I would cast the block @ 60 PSI, paint the inside of the drilled hole white and use white tinted epoxy to glue the tube in.

I see that there is also a Pearl Ex 651 white. I have yet to try it.

Also, I see that you are in New Jersey. Temperature is a HUGE factor when it comes to the PR curing. When I cast in the winter I pour my PR, put it under pressure in the PP out in the garage, then bring the PP in the house and set it in the guest bathroom. I normally will let it stay there 24 - 48 hours. I take the PP outside when I am ready to remove the pressure.
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Thanks Scott for the reply. If I read your reply correct, you only used pearlX in the mix and did not add any pure white to the mix??? I tried a casting yesterday using something else and it did not come out as white as yours. May look different when I turn a blank. Yes the NJ weather is a factor and I basically do as you said except after loading in the pot I place it in the basement shop. Learned a lesson to take back outside to release the pressure because the smell stays in the pot. DUH. One thing I was very happy for is my pot is 100% leak proof with my set up. Thanks will keep trying.
 
Glass Scratcher said:
Macropearl and Micropearl are not colorants, they are pearlants. The casting appears white because you powdercoated the tube white and cast around it.
Click to expand...

While you are correct that they are not colorants per se, I have tried casting Pearl Ex 650 micropearl around a black PCd tube. It came out light grey. In sufficient quantities the Pearl Ex 650 micropearl does add white to the mix IMHO.
 
The Micropearl and Macropearl have no white in them. You are overloading the resin and what you perseive as color is optical diffraction and diffusion, not a blending of pigments or colorants.
 
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