Lucitylic blanks

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vakmere

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I bought 3, the yellow one didnt work out like I hoped. Didnt realize how transparent these were even though I back painted the blank and tube. I was able to see a little glue and not much detail in the yellow blank.
If someone has worked with these let me know how you did it and what you used it on please. Unless I have to back paint these 2 the color of the blank? I dont know.
 

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I just made a "long wood" pen kit using a blank very similar to the blue and white blank in your picture. The blank is very translucent. I wound up painting the blank and tube in silver, because that what I had laying around. It turned out great, and there is no show through.

 
Take a look at this video and see how you can design the color combinations

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbOb1UJnqdY

Ed does a nice job of showing the effects of different colors of paints on the inside of the blanks.

Silver is almost the universal fall back -- and white is probably the second most "safe" choice. The effect of different colors of paints -- and the use of "streaking" a second color allows some dramatic choices.
 
Good suggestions and good video, thank you both. I would think now when using these types of blanks painting with the color close to them would be best.
 
When using non-wood and non-opaque "acrylics", I always paint the inside of the barrel with white, gray, black or rust colored primer depending on the blank. I learned the hard way. Even with painting the inside of the barrel and the tube, I will not use a translucent blank if the pen design call for a thin wall. Even though I will not see the tube, I don't like seeing so much of the painted barrel. FWIW :)
 
I created "Lucitylic" as an effort to give the look of lucite, with the ease of turning of acrylic. Lots of people were buying lucite, which cost more and is a turning challenge.

It is virtually clear. PERSONALLY, I would use the color of the blank (baby blue, pink, etc) I believe this would emphasize the white lines.

FWIW,
Ed
 
Ed and Tony have led me to an answer. Thickness and matching the blank color. Thank you.
 
A CSUSA Patriot or PSI Polaris, may be thick enough at the top, but too thin toward the nib (point). The idea is not to see the paint per se, but the paint to highlight or complement the blank (I know you know this). I also started using epoxy almost exclusively for more transparent blanks. I don't know if it is my imagination or just pure inexperience, but I think the CA eats at the paint some. Again, not sure. Good luck!
 
A CSUSA Patriot or PSI Polaris, may be thick enough at the top, but too thin toward the nib (point). The idea is not to see the paint per se, but the paint to highlight or complement the blank (I know you know this). I also started using epoxy almost exclusively for more transparent blanks. I don't know if it is my imagination or just pure inexperience, but I think the CA eats at the paint some. Again, not sure. Good luck!

Yes, I have noticed CA disolves the paint up to a point and as the tube slides in will disturb it leaving a scab or 2 in the pathway.
 
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