looking for blanks

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Daniel

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
5,921
Location
Reno, NV, USA.
I need a couple of types of blanks made. one in a purple and white and one in red and blue. I need at least 6 of each and possibly as many as 12 each.
They are going to make pens for both K- State and University of Kansas pens. The hard part is that the colors are specific, complete with Pantone color codes etc.

First if anyone is interested in making them let me know. I can provide the color codes

Second if anyone has any suggestions on how to go about getting some sort of pigment mixed to make my own.

I will also be looking for a half dozen pure white (smooth white) blanks to make segments int eh pens to apply decals of the respective logo's

depending on total cost I am looking at moving forward on this project on the 10th of June.

thanks for any help.
Daniel
 
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Contact Brooks803. He is going through some tough times with his family but if he has the time you would be hard pressed to find finer blanks. He has done a bunch for me. All have been spot on.
 
If you have the color codes or actual samples, you can go to sherwin williams and have the paint mixed off the computer. Smallest you will be able to buy is likely a quart..a cost of about $10 a can. Now if you don't cast blanks, and you go buy the paint, MUST be oil base of course, then I can help you and pour alumilite blanks for you and the cost would not be too bad because I can pour blocks of 5 and since you would supply the paint, and cut the blocks yourself, you just mostly have resin costs and a bit of labor and shipping to deal with. You would not need to send me a quart of paint. You could find some smaller jars, pour some of the paint into those jars and UPS them. Actual white..well that's simple and easy..it's $4.99 a small pint can at ace hardware down the street, makes a nice solid white simple easy to spin blank, or you could just buy solid white PVC rods on ebay...but PVC rods may yellow over time, and alumilite that I use has some UV protection in it to help reduce yellowing..nothing can totally eliminate aging and fading, but it can be reduced.
 
I thought I had sen something in the past mentioning using paint as the color. I am discussing this with a member via PM at the moment. WIll get back to you all pending that discussion. Thanks
 
I have never turned Alumilite. I know some of the home brew PR can be pretty hard stuff to turn. How is the Alumilite as far as turning qualities. As a point of reference i no longet use the stuff sold by woodturningz do to 100% cracking during turning or drilling. Nothing against Ryan and the blanks come in some fantastic colors. Sad really since refiing my methods would open up a range of very fine looking material.
Anyway I am considering trying to make my own but expect it would require a considerable amount of practice on my part. I am not looking for a solid purple or red blank but more of a swirl in the main colors. Getting the colors would be the easy part. getting them mixed correctly would be anouther matter. I have cast a few blanks in the past adn realize there is a technique to producing any specific style of color mixtures.
 
well it looks like I am going to give this a shot with alumilite. I don't mind having one more skill under my belt. I may be diving in at the deep end as well.

Anyone have a volume if alumilite I should get to make up to 36 3/4 inch by 6ish inch blanks? Some of what I am going to do may require I make the blanks over size and then trim them down later as well.

any suggestions on how to get the look of these blanks but in the colors I am going for

for the K-State pen (purple and white I am pretty set on getting this efft in white with purple streaks
pmc-polar-ice_l.jpg


My favorite idea for the KU blanks is red and blue with yellow ribbons in it for this look
app-mandarin_l.jpg


I think I am reaching pretty far to think I can get that last one so my second choice in KU blanks is to do red and blue sheets that I crush up and then pack them back in the mold as tightly as possible and recast with yellow. trying to keep the yellow as minimum as possible for something that looks like this.
pmc-crushed-shell_l.jpg


tht at least is a good idea of where my ideas are heading. IF anyone has any pointers on how to get any of those effects with alumilite it would be appreciated.
 
Daniel,

I think you will find turning Alumilite a breeze. It is pretty darn stable with very little chip out worries both on the drilling and turning end. It is still a resin so some caution should be used, but it is nothing like Inlace (The stuff from Woodturningz is mostly Inlace) The only negative on it, is you may find that it doesn't polish to as high of a gloss as other materials, if you want the high gloss throw on a CA finish. That being said I have turned several of Jeff's blanks (which are alumilite) and was happy with the polished blank on its own.

Good luck and have fun!
 
A 3/4 x 6 inch blank would be around 3.5 ounces of resin, maybe at the most 4. Depends on if it's round or square too...a round one might only be 3 ounces or less. You are better off pouring into blocks as opposed to singles. It is easier to control your swirls in a larger mold. Picture number 2, I can't guess how to pour that one, not with alumilite anyhow. With PR, perhaps, because you could pour thin sheets of white and let them run close to setting, and then you pour a thin sheet of black on one sheet of white and then place other sheet of white over top..or it could be side by side with white on either side and then again you don't let it totally set, just come close but still be pliable and then you would push and pull on it so you get thick and thin spots and then cut and put in molds and re pour..that's my only guess on that one. The last one is real easy..you pour a block then smash the hell out of it, throw the chunks in a mold and pour again...again this works best with PR, because PR is brittle and easy to smash the heck out of it, and with Alumlite, you put that on the floor and hit it with a sledge hammer and it might laugh at you! At best, you break it into a couple pieces..you pretty much need a grinding machine of some sort to get it broken up like that with Alumilite.

Pour number 1 can be done with either product..probably a bit easier with alumilite, but either way, just need some practice with the timing is all. Both products can produce this effect if you pour it right before it flashes off. You need to find out which color will flash first. I already know with alumilite, the white paint is going to flash first. So the white would be stirred first and then the purple. So the white will start flashing off..getting pretty hot, time to pour fast, in goes the white first, about 1/3 full then get that purple which will be more liquidy and splash that in real quick and then get that white back over top before it becomes so flashed off it won't pour. See..with PR, the technique is pretty much going to be the same, but you will wait much longer for the flash to happen. If you pour too early, the colors may be different weights and they will be swirled in the beginning, but then the heavier color will settle to the bottom and you will have a kinda layered ugly blank. The same thing will happen with Alumilite, but you will never get a total settling of colors because the flash time is so fast. With alumilite, you will have to use pressure..no pot, no alumilite. Pr can be done right on the counter, you do risk trapping a few bubbles, but if you do, it should be minimal enough to spin and maybe fill a pin hole with ca if at all..the bubbles will generally float up..just depends on how much flash is happening during the pour..too much will trap more, not enough and you get settling of colors. It does take a lot of practice. For 36 blanks to be poured by yourself, I would definitely use PR, as you will pay 5-6 times more for alumilite, and then need a pot on top of it all. You can buy Alumilite at a more comparative price to PR..like maybe only 15-20% more cost, but to do so you need to buy large quantities.
 
Jeff, thanks a ton for all that info. I figured I would have to go with PR for the second one. I actually do know how it is done. Just FYI you pour a thin sheet of the white then cut it into strips while it is still soft enough to work. then place those strips in a mold and pour the next color around it. In the case of two colors they have to have some way to seal the strips at the bottom basically creating compartments that can be filled with the next color of pr.

now I have a problem. PR needed for the tyle of blanks I like but Alumilite for the colors I need. maybe I will just go with a number one style for both Universities.

I can probably locate a plain white blank without having to make them myself. making the total of blanks I need to make at about 24 or a grand total of 96 ox of whatever I go with. I might as well go with the 2 gal version of Alumilite if I go that way. twice as much as i need but at almost the same price as 6 16 oz kits.

Thanks for the help all I think I am closing in on how to go about this.
 
I see what you are saying. Similar to what what I was thinking, but ribbons instead of manipulation and poured inside a large block.

Plain white will be easy to find. I would buy rods, like 2-3 foot long, cheap and simple!

If you buy the alumilite, get the clear, not the water clear. You'll have a lot of fun with it. Use 50 lbs of pressure. A cheap electronic scale from walmart is a must. Any plastic cups will work. Proper stirring is a must as well, I recommend the 3/4" Popsicle sticks, not those little 3/8 ones, because you get it mixed faster and better, and although I buy them by the thousands at a school supply outlet, you can usually find them in packs of 50-100 at a dollar store..I think they call them craft sticks rather than Popsicle sticks.

Good luck to you sir!
 
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