Label casting questions

[jedgerton]

I've gotten lots of good input from the responses I've gotten and I'm about ready to try casting some labels. One additional question did come up. Has anyone cast labels printed on a laser printer?

My color printer is a laser printer and I'm not sure if the colors/ink is more or less prone to running. I've read that some coat the labels with thin CA to prevent ink from running but I think most of those have been printed with ink jet printers.

While I'm at it, has anyone tried using an actual photograph as the label?

I don't want to analyze this to death but I do appreciate your help in at least avoiding some of those trial and error lessons.

John

 

[BRobbins629]

Never tried laser, but some of the first pictures I cast were from photos. They worked, but the issues I ran into were:
1) the thickness of the photo paper stock was difficult to bend and keep the fingerprints off when trying to CA to the tube.
2) The seam was harder to hide and get straight
3) It was difficult to get the size right.
Soon after, I tried labels, even some high gloss ones to try to get more photorealistic, but the standard ones seemed to work best overall.

 

[NewLondon88]

You may want to spray a coating over the label from a laser print. I haven't
done it either, so this is just an assumption. But a coating of acrylic (Krylon?)
or clear enamel should seal the paper. I would try it before putting the label
onto the tube and let it sit for a day or so to completely dry.

Photo stock might be too heavy, as Bruce mentioned, but a good scan (300dpi)
and output to a good printer should give you just as good an image. PLUS you don't
have to lose your original photo to an experiment.

 

[WoodCarverOH]

Use the special Decal Paper made for Laser printers (ink jet paper will melt in laser printer) Pigment is melted into laser paper and bonded to it I've never had to spray a coating.

 

[burgerman]

Label / photo casting

I've never tried a laser printer. I use an inkjet printer. I have done several photo pens. Some worked. Some didn't. I can tell you what worked for me.

I use some media called: Inkjet Photo Glossy Film by Papilio (I think it's www.papilio.com -- they are in Ft. Worth, I think.)
I'm sure they would have some paper for laser printers too. This media is a glossy photo paper, is very thin and has peel and stick backing. I use regular photos, then shrink them down using photo editing software. I try to fill up a whole 8.5 x 11 page before printing, as the paper is about $2/page with shipping.

At first I was spraying the photos with Krylon "Preserve It" - Digital Photo & Paper Protectant. It worked fine. Later I tried just waiting 24 hours for the ink to be good and dry, and I cast them without spraying on the coating. Those worked fine too.

I have used both PR and Alumilite. Alumilite is much friendlier to work with, but doesn't shine up quite as glossy as PR. All the attached photos are PR. One thing I discovered is that the PR doesn't want to bond to the photo itself. So, that requires very careful turning. Tools must be very sharp and work slowly. You can see in one photo where I blew up 2 out of 3 blanks.

As for the pens, I got the UT tower image by doing a google images search. The other photo is of the Dallas sky line at night. I took that photo.

I've found that black/dark backgrounds are best for hiding the seam. I overlap the seam.

I'm no expert at this, but find it fun and don't mind sharing things I've found that work and don't work.

Good luck!

 

[DurocShark]

In the "no bubbles casting" thread there is a tip on brushing the PR onto the tube and curing that before casting the whole thing. I bet that would solve your adhesion trouble...

 

[hewunch]

The ones I have done were printed with a color laser. No problem with colors running.