Label Casting Problem

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soligen

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May 11, 2010
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Sterling Heights, Michigan
I've yet to get a good label cast. I thought I had it this time. But......

When I poured the resin, everything look perfect. No bubbles at all, seam disappeared - looked absolutely perfect in the mold.

I came back 2 hours later and there are some air bubbles along the seam. All I can think is that the PR shrunk and squeazed out a little air from under the label.

Anyone else experience this? any sure fire way to fix it?

My process is:

Print the label on an Avery Shipping Label. Let dry 1 day
Carefully apply to the tube.
Use sharpie to color the overlapped edge to it blends in.
Light spray with a clear coat to set colors. Let dry 1 day.
Glue in plugs (5 min epoxy), let set 1 hour
Resin was heated and ultrasonics to degass.
4 drops MEKP per ounce.

Everything is perfect except the few bubbles along the seam. Just a tad too big to hide with the clip.
 
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I don't put anything on the labels to set the colors. The overlapped seam is a perfect place for bubbles to stick because of the ridge with the overlap. Try rolling the tube with the label stuck on so you apply pressure concentrating on the seam to compress the overlap.

Was the seam up on on top or on the bottom...could you see the seam looking down on the mold?

Air can come out of the tube once the resin heats during curing...yes even if yuu glue in the plugs. Do you use real corks or some other type of plug? You could pack clay or play dough in the tube to remove the air. Real corks hold air which can escape when the resin cures and heats.

You are not alone. There are so many variables which have to be considered. How long do you "wrangle" bubbles moving them away from the surface of the tube?

Good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

soligen said:
I've yet to get a good label cast. I thought I had it this time. But......

When I poured the resin, everything look perfect. No bubbles at all, seam disappeared - looked absolutely perfect in the mold.

I came back 2 hours later and there are some air bubbles along the seam. All I can think is that the PR shrunk and squeazed out a little air from under the label.

Anyone else experience this? any sure fire way to fix it?

My process is:

Print the label on an Avery Shipping Label. Let dry 1 day
Carefully apply to the tube.
Use sharpie to color the overlapped edge to it blends in.
Light spray with a clear coat to set colors. Let dry 1 day.
Glue in plugs (5 min epoxy), let set 1 hour
Resin was heated and ultrasonics to degass.
4 drops MEKP per ounce.

Everything is perfect except the few bubbles along the seam. Just a tad too big to hide with the clip.
Click to expand...
 
As Don says, there are so many variables. I think one he didn't mention was the length of time between label application and casting. I usually try to apply my label and let it sit for a day or so before I cast it.

Also, the last thing before I put it in the mold is the roll the seam one more time to ensure adhesion....

Just my added thoughts....
 
I have just started casting and started with the same problems. I am using the water slide decals instead of labels. I have probably had 10 failures before I got an almost perfect one. I only had one tiny bubble next to the seam when it was fully cured. What I found to work is to go slow. Make all your pours and stir very slowly. I try to get as close to the vessel I am pouring into to help prevent introducing new bubbles. By slowing down the entire pouring/stirring process I probably only had three or four bubbles that were easily picked out. The one I missed was under the tube and I didn't see it.
 
I have to agree with Don. The bubbles are probably coming from the end seal material or the tube. I now put the seal on top and work the bubbles free if there are any with a finishing nail for 10-15 minutes. I certainly have had my share of bubbles and seam lifts with labels. Last several batches I seemed to have better luck - used Charlie's resin saver mold.
 
ooo .. my antenna twitched .. someone typed my name :tongue:

I've had trouble with the seams, too. I tried coating the labels with CA, but
found that the heat from the curing resin melts both the CA and the label
adhesive.. so air still gets out. (paper labels are full of air)
The trouble was finding something that will seal the paper but still not
attack the inks, dyes or adhesive. Some people use resin without the
catalyst to saturate the paper (displaces the air) before casting. Some use
ModgePodge for the same reason. Water based products seem less likely
to dissolve when the solvents in the resin touch it. But it has to be given
plenty of time to cure. Padding cement (used to bind sheets of paper into
a pad of paper) works well if you can find it in clear. Clear (gloss) acrylic
varnish also works, as does clear gesso.
 
to clarify a few questions. I used wood plugs turned from scrap. The seam was up and there were no bubbles in the seam. The bubbles formed in the middle of the seam, not near the ends, so I dont see how the air could have come out of the tubes.

I have some mod podge I can try. I guess if that doesnt work, I'll fall back on my previous technique of just building up CA.
 
Hmmm, it is my opinion that corks, or wood plugs are your number one problem. I use Ptownsubbie's molds and have about a 99% success rate! The other 1% is almost always my fault, A.D.D. Usually gets in the way. :) Silicone plugs are included when you buy them and to me they are what make or break your success! When I cast my quarter blanks, I have to eliminate as much room for error as possible, mainly because they are so time consuming.
 
I've had pretty good luck sealing labels with spray lacquer. If sprayed very lightly, it dries super fast, so I have not had problems with inks running. I put two or three light coats on at least an hour apart and then let it sit for at least a day. YMMV
 
this stuff seals pretty well and dries clear. Make sure the ink is
thoroughly dry first.. maybe a day or so. Keeps the resin from
soaking the paper or releasing the adhesive.
 

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Not to plug anyone's product, but I was having similar problems using corks and dowels to seal the ends. When I switched to Ptownsubbies rubber cork molds the problems went away.....BUT as Don suggests...to many variables here to make a good diagnosis.

I usually use gloss ModgePodge.... CA gives me fits! Others swear by it. Might get me some of Charlie's varnish, simply because I have SO much room in the shop.
 
Has anyone tried the fixative that is used for decal paper to prevent the ink from running?

I have a set of Fred's molds that are still wrapped up as they came. Just got them and still no Resin.
 
PenMan1 said:
Not to plug anyone's product, but I was having similar problems using corks and dowels to seal the ends.
Click to expand...

That's the problem that led me to make the ResinSavers. I found that
when I put CA on the cork, more often than not Id damage the blank
when cutting away the cork.

The varnish is used by artists, so most any art supply store will have it.
If you live in a more populous area, some of the box stores MIGHT carry
it, but living in the sticks I find the box stores only carry flagship stuff. If they
can't turn it over in 30 days, they won't stock it at all.
 
You have a waffle house? oooooh.. you're lucky.
We had a diner with a door so full of holes that it looked
like a waffle, does that count?
 
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