Kauri-preconceived notions??

[ed4copies]

Well, I got my kauri yesterday, which is on "exotics" now. So, I thought I would turn something last night (when we got home at 10:30).

Turned a pen, sanded to 1000 grit and applied BLO. It brought out the "figure", but turned the wood very dark (similar to the reaction of mahogany to BLO). If I can find my camera, I will take a pic later.

The question is, how have YOU finished Kauri?? Do you demand the light color (as Dawn apparently does) or is the BLO enhanced, darker color your preference.

I would like to put instructions with these pieces, so I am grateful for all input that may help other turners.:biggrin:

Thanks,
Ed

 

[THarvey]

I have only turned two pens from kauri. Both were for specific orders.

I turned and finished a two small cuts off for the customers to choose the finish (and to let me see how it would finish).

One customer choose the BLO/CA finish, which was 3-4 shades darker in color.

The other choose the CA only finish, which looked similar to the original wood color.

My preference would be for the BLO. I like the way it brought out the grain.

 

[bitshird]

A friend gave me a piece of Kauri, I may just be jaded but just because it's the oldest wood it did nothing for me, it seemed too blah, odd though IBO while not as old, at least to me shows some character.
As far as the color shift from using BLO try Pure Tung Oil, not Tung Oil Finish,it supposedly won't alter the color or tone of the wood.

 

[Russianwolf]

I use straight CA when finishing and the results look like this.

It's still much darker than the raw wood, but I like it.

 

[ed4copies]

Mike, yours looks very much like the one I did last night.

Ken, if "marketed", kauri can be a nice add-on to a pen booth. It has started a few conversations for me. (Oh, I agree the wood is boring, but the story is interesting)

 

[DCBluesman]

Kauri is a blond wood, like most hard maple. You can dye it (with BLO or other dyes) but that is not it's natural color. Some folks like the "cognac" look, but others prefer the original color, particularly in light of the fact that the wood is largely unchanged in 50,000 years.

 

[Russianwolf]

Here is the first one I did, before I knew better and friction polish was the norm.

It stayed much lighter, but..........

The problem is it sucks in anything that touches it. So you need to seal it with something that won't change the color before you put a top coat on. I thought CA would be okay, but it obviously changes the color dramatically too (which I'm one of the ones that likes it that way).

 

[ed4copies]

Maybe sanding sealer, then CA or lacquer???

 

[bitshird]

Keith Larrett and I were discussing finishing Holly and Maple with out changing the color or tinting the wood, I know that the Maple I did with Pure Tung Oil stayed the nice color of the natural Curly Maple with no yellowing, or darkening of the color, but since ancient Kauri is a bit softer and more porous than Maple, I'm not sure if it would work, but I think it might.

 

[ed4copies]

Upon further reading, Kauri is a conifer. Softwood. So, it is likely to absorb most anything. Perhaps if we treat it like knotty pine??? I'll keep reading. But, you "flatwork guys" feel free to chime in with what keeps pine looking nice!!

Oh, and it dates back as far as 150000 years, with the carbon dating of our logs at 50000 to 30000 years. Think our lit will incorporate a "time line" to make this point more dramatically for your customer.

 

[BigguyZ]

What about stabilization? If you impregnate it with a solution of plexi/ acetone, wouldn't that effectively seal the wood from absorbing additional material? Then you could put another finish on to provide surface protection.

 

[Russianwolf]

What about stabilization? If you impregnate it with a solution of plexi/ acetone, wouldn't that effectively seal the wood from absorbing additional material? Then you could put another finish on to provide surface protection.

It'll likely darken the wood same as the CA, but it is worth a shot.