Casting Just starting and need advice

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
More4dan

More4dan

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
2,102
Location
Katy, TX
My pressure pot has arrived and I need to order some resin. I want to cast clear with tube in. I plan to do some watch part blanks, labels, and abalone shell.

What do you recommend for resin?
Alumilite (which one)? West Systems Epoxy? Silmar 41? Pros and Cons?

Thanks,

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Danny,

Welcome to another BAD (addicting) habit. I have only worked with Alumilite due to the recommendations and the durability of the items not to chip or crack when dropped. The SLOW cure might be the way to start with, and now thru the March 5th they have discount and flat rate shipping on web orders, see the "SALES & DISCOUNTS" on the home page of IAP.

Price is the only "CON" that I can see, but several IAP vendors offer a volume discount if you or inclined to buy that way.
Check out
TurnTex Woodworks--Cactus Juice
The Original, Affordable DIY Stabilizing Solution.

A lot of good videos on Alumilite and also on stabilizing.

Good luck,

Richard (HCPENS)
 
I'd be getting one of those awesome tube in molds from Tom at Man Eater Crafts... And then consider trying a few resins to see what you like best. I learned early on that buying a couple pounds gets expensive and upped my alumilite purchase to the 2 gallon to learn with. Yes, it's expensive but the difference in price makes it less painful when you throw away mistakes. Definitely go with the slow, nice safety margin built in.

A few guys swear by liquid diamonds for clear casting. I've got my first test pieces in the pot currently with that. It takes forever to cure though so not one for high volume production work.
 
I's start with alumalite and maybe liquid diamonds.
Similar 41 is a polyester resin which requires a respirator and good ventilation. I'd personally stay away from any of the PR resins for that reason. There's a ton of threads on Alumalite vs PR, here's one http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/poly-resin-vs-alumilite-116665/

Liquid diamonds has a very long open time, I've waited an hour for it to set up enough so that colors won't immediately mix together, and is super forgiving. But it takes a long time ~48 hours to cure. If you are mixing colors, make sure you have the same amount of resin in each cup. My first try I had a cup w/ 3oz and a cup w/ 1oz when I mixed in the colors. More resin = more heat so the 3oz cup started to cure faster than the 1oz one and all settled to the bottom.

Since you have pressure give Alumalite a shot. The most common one used is Clear here's a good thread on the different formulations http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/differences-alumilite-forumlations-88906/

Zac Higgins has a ton of great videos on casting, and Alumalite in particular https://www.youtube.com/user/NVWoodwerks/featured

You can get a discount on Alumalite until the 4th http://www.penturners.org/forum/f407/alumilite-discount-code-153012/

You can get a discount on Liquid Diamonds if you order today http://www.penturners.org/forum/f407/bash-discount-turners-warehouse-153120/

Hope this helps
 
I would use poly resin for clear tube in casting. It takes a much better polish than Alumilite IMO which makes a big difference with clear resin and embedded items. Both have their advantages but I think poly is the better choice for what you want to do. By the gallon it's also considerably cheaper than Alumilite, which means if you mess up the first few tries you won't be wasting as much money. I haven't tried LD which may be a great choice as well, but it's also considerably more expensive than Silmar 41.
 
I use PR, yeah it is stinky. Clear and cheap. The longer open time was very important when I was learning, and is still important when I'm casting large batches.

Got some Royal Palm Resin and am experimenting this week.
 
Well... after last night's testing I can tell you that casting Liquid Diamonds in Clear PVC means you might be buying more clear PVC even with a bit of mold release. Or... I need a bigger hammer.
 
Personally, I would use epoxy for your intended purpose. There are several on the market, in various ranges, and the pot life for most of them is long enough to extract any air inclusions.
The big difference between epoxy and poly, is most epoxies are non-reactive.
Poly has an inclination to react with many things, and for embedment's, it could potentially ruin blanks and waste material. That can get frustrating.

Also, any chemicals give off VOC's, whether you can detect them or not. It's always best to read the MSDS and take the appropriate precautions.
It's best to be able to cast another day and keep the family safe as well.
 
Last edited:
I just started casting some tube in stuff with liquid diamonds and it is very clear. On my carbon fiber blanks it is much clearer the the store bought acrylic.
I don't have a pressure pot yet so I am waiting on that to try alumalite.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
There are plenty of threads here to give you an idea about different resins. PM me and I'd e happy to talk to you about what I know about what I use and have used, keep in mind I'm no expert. As mentioned before contact Tom at Maneater Crafts about a mold. They are a little more expensive up front but other than replacing the silicone plugs once in a great while it will probably be the last one you'll need to buy.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
There are plenty of threads here to give you an idea about different resins. PM me and I'd e happy to talk to you about what I know about what I use and have used, keep in mind I'm no expert. As mentioned before contact Tom at Maneater Crafts about a mold. They are a little more expensive up front but other than replacing the silicone plugs once in a great while it will probably be the last one you'll need to buy.
Click to expand...



Thank Kenny, I'm looking into Tom's molds now. Impressive. You also don't have to buy molds for each pen type you want to make. I ordered some Liquid Diamond epoxy to get started. I'll likely try Aluminite next order. Thanks everyone for your advice and suggestions. My wife actually talked me into this new addiction after turning her a watch parts pen. So when all the bills hit next month it won't be my fault. (We all know it's always our fault but I'll have 30 days to build my excuses)


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
I have my pressure pot, mold from Maneater on the way, Mann 200 mold release ordered, 1-1/2 gallons of Liquid Diamonds coming. for clear cast tube in blanks what am I missing? With LD, since it is non-reactive, do I need to clear coat labels prior to casting? If so, what should I use? Where do y'all source your brass tubes?

Thanks again for all the advice in getting started.

Danny
 
Danny,

The only resin that I have cast with is Alumilite Clear. I would look around the site at the UV resistance of various resins. I have a 3/4" cylinder of undyed, unpigmented Alumilite Clear that I cast probably 4 years or so ago that has taken on a distinct yellow cast. As far as I know they haven't changed their formula, but there is a much greater than zero probability that I am wron on this since I haven't asked.

Liquid Diamonds seems to be the go-to now for epoxy and they claim UV resistance. Don't know what that claim actually means, since I haven't been able to find any science on it. It may be absolutely fine.

About 9 months ago there was a really interesting thread on a product called Artesian which the manufacturer claims is castable for small items like pens (although that is not its primary purpose). It has an additive from a family of chemicals called HALS which react to UV light to prevent degradation. As far as I can tell, nobody here ever tried it for turning, and it disappeared down the memory hole. Artesian has fairly complete information on their website and you can google info on HALS.

I know you already have the LD on order, but it may be something to keep in mind for a small quantity to try.

Here is the link to the thread:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/uv-stabilization-148441/

FWIW

Bill
 
I cast a lot of watch parts blanks, probably 100+ a year all with epoxy, West Systems. I bought some liquid diamonds but haven't tried it yet, looking to try some of the of the Royal Palm Resin, it is a lot cheaper. Epoxy is not great for colored blanks with multiple colors/pours. I have had one failure in 500+ watch parts using epoxy. Tried alumilite once for watch parts, didn't like the results, chippy, reacted with some of the dials. PR, way too much smell.

When you get around to buying watch parts PM me and I can give you some good eBay sellers that I have found. As for dials my advice is know what you are looking for and set some search alerts and be patient. Make bids on lots of watches/dials and don't go above the price you want to pay, it might take some time but you will get what you want at your price.

When you start doing watch parts try to always use hands on the dials. It's hard to master but they look so much better. Try not to buy watches from China or Taiwan the dials are paper and don't cast well.

Mike
 
tkbarron said:
Please check out the videos from this link, especially the 2nd one about demolding blanks. I included a few tricks that can really help since you are casting with LD!



https://www.facebook.com/ManeaterCrafts/posts/440167129719030
Click to expand...



Tom, great videos! Thanks for the advice. I ordered the Mann 200 spray release. Will it work for the silicone plugs or should I order the liquid wax based release for tube in casting?

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Indiana_Parrothead said:
I cast a lot of watch parts blanks, probably 100+ a year all with epoxy, West Systems. I bought some liquid diamonds but haven't tried it yet, looking to try some of the of the Royal Palm Resin, it is a lot cheaper. Epoxy is not great for colored blanks with multiple colors/pours. I have had one failure in 500+ watch parts using epoxy. Tried alumilite once for watch parts, didn't like the results, chippy, reacted with some of the dials. PR, way too much smell.

When you get around to buying watch parts PM me and I can give you some good eBay sellers that I have found. As for dials my advice is know what you are looking for and set some search alerts and be patient. Make bids on lots of watches/dials and don't go above the price you want to pay, it might take some time but you will get what you want at your price.

When you start doing watch parts try to always use hands on the dials. It's hard to master but they look so much better. Try not to buy watches from China or Taiwan the dials are paper and don't cast well.

Mike
Click to expand...



Mike, thanks for the great advice and the offer for help in how to procure the watch parts. Those are next on my list.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom