Italian Acrylic Rollerball

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hooked

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I haven't posted a pen in a while. This was a fun one and a little different, so I thought I would share it. Every part of this one needed to be sanded and polished, inside and out. That was the most difficult part here. It was a challenge, but I learned a lot making this one. I like how you can see the spring in the blind cap.

I used my Rick Herrell sliding tailstock collet holder on this one for the first time, and that is a great tool for using taps and dies. I also used a new mandrel from Rick...such good quality.

Grey Swirl Italian Acrylic - Vermont Freehand
Semplicita Nastro Silver Ribbon ends and section - Beaufort Ink
Semplicita sage cap bands - Beaufort Ink
Gunmetal plated Nib and Clip
Sterling Silver bands
Fits a Schmidt 5888 refill

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Very nice. I love that resin. I have used it in other colors. Your interior polishing is much better than mine. Good going. And a rollerball! Cool! I too use Rick Herrell's sliding tailstock collet chuck tap and die holder and love it. I have not touched my other sliding tap and die holder since I gat the one from Rick. So much better than any other I have used. I also use his stepped drill bits for drilling the section for the JoWo and Bock nib units. No more drilling with several bits for the sections.

Thanks for sharing this exquisite pen.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
its_virgil said:
Very nice. I love that resin. I have used it in other colors. Your interior polishing is much better than mine. Good going. And a rollerball! Cool! I too use Rick Herrell's sliding tailstock collet chuck tap and die holder and love it. I have not touched my other sliding tap and die holder since I gat the one from Rick. So much better than any other I have used. I also use his stepped drill bits for drilling the section for the JoWo and Bock nib units. No more drilling with several bits for the sections.

Thanks for sharing this exquisite pen.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...
Thank you! I have been working on using a method similar to the Edison Pen Company video, which shows in detail how they do internal polishing at minute 12:30. I use a homemade rod similar as shown in the video mounted on the lathe along with some mini holders from Amazon to get into the small pieces with a flexshaft. I wet sand internals to 400, first 2 Zonas, and then go through the Magic Juice steps to polish internals.
 
Wow….those type of acrylic blanks have never been attractive to me, but with it being transparent, and polished inside and out, it's a completely different material. Absolutely gorgeous.
I hope I get you in the PITH someday 😂
 
sorcerertd said:
That's some beautiful work! I'm not sure about the pen cartridge showing, but the fact that you can see it so clearly through that polish is impressive.
Click to expand...
I kind of agree about the cartridge. I originally built it as a sort of demonstrator fountain pen, but I made a second section to hold the cartridge and thought it came out pretty nice. I was trying to figure out a body size that would accept a standard rollerball cartridge as well as a fountain pen converter, and be able to swap. The only thing you need to do to convert to a fountain is swap out the section and remove the spring from the blind cap, which I forgot to do for this quick picture.

Black Jowo #6

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I see these beautiful pens some of you turn out and the perfect threads and wonder about cutting the threads in the wood or plastic. Is there a special lubricant for the taps? I worked in semiconductor wafer fabs for 40 years and you couldn't use typical thread cutting lubes in the fab for fear of contamination. Someone (not me) advised us to try 100% IPA for tapping into aluminum and steel. Not drilling because it might light off. I was amazed at the results. It worked really well. No residue or mess. Has anyone tried it on any of the plastics? Not sure about wood.

Just a thought that popped into my little pea brain.

Mike
 
I personally use two lubricants now. I have tried canola oil, PAM spray, WD40, mineral oil, and just about everything else I read about people using. The two that I have found to work best for me is Anchorlube and Tap Magic Protap. Anchorlube is a water based metalworking compound and I mix 50/50 with water. Tap Magic works even better for me on acrylic, but I am not a big fan of the smell. Tap Magic is biodegradable as well.

I have never tried alcohol.
 
Mike said:
I see these beautiful pens some of you turn out and the perfect threads and wonder about cutting the threads in the wood or plastic. Is there a special lubricant for the taps? I worked in semiconductor wafer fabs for 40 years and you couldn't use typical thread cutting lubes in the fab for fear of contamination. Someone (not me) advised us to try 100% IPA for tapping into aluminum and steel. Not drilling because it might light off. I was amazed at the results. It worked really well. No residue or mess. Has anyone tried it on any of the plastics? Not sure about wood.

Just a thought that popped into my little pea brain.

Mike
Click to expand...
By IAP you mean IAP the Compressor Oil? - Dave
 
egnald said:
By IAP you mean IAP the Compressor Oil? - Dave
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IPA, isopropyl alcohol, not IAP. Sorry Dave, should have spelled it out.
In the semiconductor industry IPA is widely used in the fab and the acronym is very common so it seems like everybody should know it:).
Amazing how well it works for a tapping lube.
IPA is my beer of choice, but probably not a good lube. We have several world class microbreweries here in Albuquerque.

Mike
 
Mike said:
IPA, isopropyl alcohol, not IAP. Sorry Dave, should have spelled it out.
In the semiconductor industry IPA is widely used in the fab and the acronym is very common so it seems like everybody should know it:).
Amazing how well it works for a tapping lube.
IPA is my beer of choice, but probably not a good lube. We have several world class microbreweries here in Albuquerque.

Mike
Click to expand...
I don't know, I've been pretty lubed up from too many IPAs before. 😁 - Dave
 
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