Is using a saw on a lathe a bad idea?

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studioso

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Hello,
I have a project brewing in mind, it will involve feeding a Delrin 1/2" through the headstock, and cutting segments of about 1/2 inch. Feeding 1/2", cutting etc.
I know I can use a parting tool, but I'm wondering if it's really a bad idea to use a small veneer saw instead:
The saw is really small, has fine teeth
-the material is only 1/2 Delrin
- the lathe will. E really small.

What can go wrong? I remember reading more than once on this forum that it's a bad idea, but in my head I just don't see any real danger here,
Am I missing something?
Thank you
 
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I'm not sure what " - the lathe will. E really small. " means,but if the saw were stiff (eg a miter box saw for example, I'd do it in a minute. If the veneer saw is made to cut on the pull stroke (instead of push), It'll be trouble, unless you can hold it BELOW the delrin and pull... dont do anything you aren't comfortable with...

Tom
 
I have used a small x-acto saw to cut off waste material when I turn a pen body. No problems to date.:biggrin:

I'm sure that now that I've said that I'll have nothng but headaches and injuries from flying pieces.:frown:

I have also cut off short pieces of wooden dowel for plugs in the same manner you described. Only problem is finding the little buggers on the floor after they're cut.

I would suggest cutting at a low speed and maintaining very positive control of the saw blade and you should be okay with this. If it doesn't feel right to you, STOP and rethink the whole thing before continuing.
 
Haynie said:
Hand saw sounds safe. This not so safe:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ydDQQQww1AA
Click to expand...

I have been only been turning for less than 2 month and I have used a chain saw on a few trees. That scared the #@#$ out of me:eek:

Back on topic:
You could also make your own parting tool by turning a handle then grinding the teeth off a jigsaw blade. This gives you a very thin kerf parting tool. This also works great for cutting the CA between your blanks and the bushings after you finish or cutting blanks into slices for laminating.
 

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Alex - have the video camera rolling. If anything goes wrong you can charge for views to offset the Dr. bills. :eek:
 
I wont say whether it is a good idea or a bad idea. Someone once told me it was a bad idea.

If you decide to try it, use the point of a skew to make a groove first that the saw blade goes it. Otherwise the saw will skitter across the blank before it gets started.

Oh, and slow speed
 
hi, thank you for the replies.
not sure what I typed on that last line: iphone's autocorrect has a mind of it's own!
the small veneer hand saw is the one sold at leevalley and other retailers. it cuts on the pull stroke. aha! that's why my new delta 60-460 has a reverse speed!
 
In reverse, you will be just fine. It will be "pulling" the saw away from you and if it does happen to get out of your hands, will send it away from your body. I have done it on many occasions with a regular old handsaw with no issues. Then again, I also would not have any issue at all with using a chainsaw like that fellow was doing. If you notice, he had his lathe in reverse so it too was pulling away from him.
 
Take a hacksaw blade, this way you can orient the direction of the teeth to work top or bottom. Decide which you want to do and make a handle to hold on to. I prefer cutting from the bottom with the lathe on slow speed so my handle is oriented so the teeth cut. To make a handle split a 1x1x5, lay the saw blade on the blank, mark where the hole is on the hack saw blade and drill a hole close to the same size as the hole in the blade, drill the other half of the blank. Glue a 1" brass pin in one of the holes, on the blade side of the blank spread epoxy glue. On the other half of the blank do the same and line up the hole with the brass pin and clamp them together. Let dry and then shape the handle to what ever you want. A belt sander works good for shaping the handle. If you want you can drill another hole and insert another brass pin closer to the blade, but the saw blade will eat up the drill bit. Or you can buy a commercial handle, but there is no fun in that.

hacksaw_handle.jpg


Even a cheap hach saw blade will last a long time if you use it on Delrin and wood. Cutting metal will wear it out too fast, you are better off using a hacksaw and frame.
 
I would go with the hacksaw in a frame. Those blades are flexible and work better when supported at both ends. You will get a better feel for the cut and your hands will be further away from the chuck. You also have a range of choices in the T.P.I., so you can pick the one that gives the best cut and finish. Which ever method you choose don't be in a hurry, let the saw do the work, and watch the amount of pressure when getting close to the center, as the delrin will have the tendency to shear. Having a lot of pressure on an unsupported tool is not a good thing. If you have a collet, use it, because chuck jaws and knuckles do not play well together...DAMHIKT. Lastly, you need to secure the length sticking out the other side of your headstock with some kind of steady rest. A 9/16" hole thru a 2x4 clamped to a stand will work. Even shorter lengths of this material have ability to "whip", which can do some damage (or go thru a weeks worth of underwear in short order:eek:).
 
studioso said:
Hello,
I have a project brewing in mind, it will involve feeding a Delrin 1/2" through the headstock, and cutting segments of about 1/2 inch. Feeding 1/2", cutting etc.
I know I can use a parting tool, but I'm wondering if it's really a bad idea to use a small veneer saw instead:
The saw is really small, has fine teeth
-the material is only 1/2 Delrin
- the lathe will. E really small.

What can go wrong? I remember reading more than once on this forum that it's a bad idea, but in my head I just don't see any real danger here,
Am I missing something?
Thank you
Click to expand...

I don't think you're missing anything! Like several others I have used a hand held hack saw and Japanese single sided finish saws many times without incident. Doing this is no different than using a super sharp skew when turning! In the hands of an idiot, either could be dangerous! :)
 
I have been using my homemade hacksaw for years, so long that I am probably on number 4 or 5. They last a couple of years or more if I only cut wood with them. Take it slow and easy, you are not cutting with a power saw, and the speed of the lathe actually slows down the cutting process as the teeth of the blade don't get the time to get a full cut. Kind of like sanding on high speed, you are just bouncing along the top of the wood.
 
Yeah it was. Still don't think it is overly safe. There are other videos of using chainsaws with a lathe, I just really liked the look of the finished product on this one.
 
I don't like the sound of it myself. The saw will cut, but the teeth are meant to cut in one direction only and because the blade is large it is flimsy and you have no way to keep it steady really. It could work, but I just don't like it and see no need for it anyhow. All you need is a parting too. you bring up the tool holder nice and close and part off the pieces, or part in the slots, whatever it is you are doing, will work fast and safe with a parting tool. Parting tools are cheap too.
 
I wouldn't do it. Saw blade is not designed for lathe work. It has no strength and can catch in the kerf and come spinning around right back at you. People do it and are lucky they don't get seriously injured and then say it's "safe" or 'OK'. If you can't use a roughing gouge on faceplate work because it is too weak what in the world would make you think it's safe to use a thin saw blade on a lathe???

Not me. NOT SAFE IMHO.

Call the saw blade manufacturer or the lathe manufacturer and ask them if it's OK and if they would accept liability if something goes wrong. LOL! You know exactly what they will say! No way! Not designed for use on a lathe.
:bad::bad::bad:
 
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