Is this normal?

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elody21

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Dec 30, 2004
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I need to ask. I just bought some bullet shells from someone that said they were polished and powder coated and ready to use. This is how they came. In my eyes they are pitted and not useable. This person agreed to give me a refund but I was angry that they even sold them in this condition. I am now out the postage. Not to mention they were supposed to be for veterans on the 4th. They said they did not understand what the problem was and have sold many of these just like the ones I bought, for $4. or $5. each!?
BTW the photo that was posted did not show the scratches and pits.
My question to you is, Would you accept these as ready to use? Is it normal to have pits in clear powder coating? I needed to ask because I was thinking of getting a powder coating system but if this is the end product I won't bother. Am I being too picky? Is this normal?
elody21
 

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Well, if you were offered a refund, and you're not happy with them, take the refund.

As for the scratches, looks like they were there before the clear powder coat went on the rounds. Personally, I think it gives them a 'used' and 'authentic' look that beats the PSI 'fake bullet' pens...but each person will have their own opinion.

Glad you were able to get your refund, anyway! :)
 
I am a reloader and see that in used ammo - New cases do not have those dents and marring. I generally use new cases (the brass part you have).

Used cases, generally picked up off the rifle range - and often military practice/training rounds expect some mars. I suspect those are rejects from a firm that reloads used ammo - I would not reload those personally because of the pits.

They will work for pens, but what you see is what you get -- sell them as used cases or recycled ammo pens.

I often get nickel plated cases and avoid the tarnish/coating issues.

Want to try a few of those, drop me a PM and I will throw a few nickel plated ones into an envelope.
 
I would have been disapointed as well. I re-load and those would have gone in the trash, I have used brass for multiple re-loads before, those pits are from corrosion not use. Even the scratches are not from "normal" wear and tear. If they were "special" authentic cases with some historical significance................maybe. Other than that I agree you got took, I'd call it a learning experience,accept the refund, eat the shipping and use more trusted sources and see photos before you buy if possible.

Landon
 
I've only done a little powder coating, but the casings were new and I polished them extensively before putting on the clear coat and they did not look anywhere near like what you show in the picture.
 
So you are saying it is normal to have pits in the clear coating where there is no coating at all? I am not talking about the scratches. If so then what is the point of clear coating? Isn't it going to tarnish where the pits are?



maxwell_smart007 said:
Well, if you were offered a refund, and you're not happy with them, take the refund.

As for the scratches, looks like they were there before the clear powder coat went on the rounds. Personally, I think it gives them a 'used' and 'authentic' look that beats the PSI 'fake bullet' pens...but each person will have their own opinion.

Glad you were able to get your refund, anyway! :)
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I think I would have been really pee'd off if I recieved those. I don't know about dents and scratches, they look to me as if the clear coat hasn't stuck down in places. Maybe they weren't properly degreased and cleaned before powder coating.
Refunds are one thing, and they are a right, not something that we need to be thankful for. Unfortunately, not being able to deliver your pens on time is the real bummer.
 
I have recently started powdercoating.. I have been using used shells.I haven't any problems with coating over dents and scratches. Maybe i'm just having beginners luck. I buff and polish and wipe them down with DA before PCing. Looks like the shells weren't properly cleaned. Just my 2 cents.... Skip I have to agree with you 100%
 
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Hopefully, those came from someone having a bad day and not someone who just doesn't care about the quality of what they deliver!
If you must make a few pens to deliver for tomorrow, you could put the casing on the lathe and buff 'em smooth -- even sanding as needed.
It'll remove the coating and the pen will require frequent waxing but it might be your best alternative given the timeframe.

Happy 4th of July. Let Freedom Ring!
 
What ever he coated them with has started to come off. You'd be better off going to a gun show and buying a bag of fifty for $35.00 and do them yourself. I would soak them in vinegar, dry, insert tube, polish, coat and assemble.
Watcha tink??
 
"Dents" are being mentioned. There are actually no dents in the shells. The round spots you see are "pits" they are places where the powder coating has not stuck
 
I would have been disappointed also. I have gotten used shells from a couple of people and they had some surface marks that were what I wanted, but no pitting or looking like yours. It does look like the coating is coming off in places. Take the refund. PM me and I will give you the names of the people I have gotten some from that were very nice.
 
Ouch--------- those look bad.
Looks like there was oil on the brass which caused to Powder Coating to mess up.
Personally----I am don't like Powder Coated shells
 
Sorry about your luck Alice. They do look pretty ugly. I generally do not bother with powder coat on mine...I just let them age naturally like a real bullet would do anyhow. Hope you get some more so you can enter the casing contest!
 
Thanks for all you help everyone.
What is the size of shell one needs for the type of pen? Is there a chart anywhere? I bought some shells a couple of years ago to make pens and when they came they were too small to even use for a slimline!
Thanks Alice
 
A little disclaimer...I know nothing about powder coating casing since I do not do either...

Could this be damage during shipping? Were they all thrown together loose in a package where they could have rubbed together during shipping and caused this? That would see to be a logical explanation seeing the scratches as well. They look like they rolled around in a box or something.
 
No not at all. they were in a bag surrounded by newspaper. I don't think there is any way pits would appear from shipping. The round spots are actual places where the coating did not stick. Alice




MesquiteMan said:
A little disclaimer...I know nothing about powder coating casing since I do not do either...

Could this be damage during shipping? Were they all thrown together loose in a package where they could have rubbed together during shipping and caused this? That would see to be a logical explanation seeing the scratches as well. They look like they rolled around in a box or something.
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The flaws are not damage during shipping. Powdercoating is harder than woodpecker lips. Heck, I even had a terrible time removing the stuff when I tried once just for kicks. The shells should not have even been sold looking like that. The powder coated shell should be smooth and shinny. Scratches and dents from used shells will not be hidden. I polish the ones I do with brasso and then buff and clean them with alcohol as I place them on the rack for coating. Even oils from our fingers will cause the PC to not stick.

I agree with Skip, a refund for bad products should be normal and not something for which we must beg or be thankful.And the refund for bad products should cover shipping.

I use the powder coating equipment from Harbor Freight and really like how it performs. But, the HF powders are trash.

Personally, I like the brass shinny and I like it to stay that way. Powdercoating does that for me.

Does anyone have any good reports on the lacquer that is made specially for brass? I know regular lacquer has not worked for me.

Do a good turn daily!
Don


elody21 said:
No not at all. they were in a bag surrounded by newspaper. I don't think there is any way pits would appear from shipping. The round spots are actual places where the coating did not stick. Alice
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Abosolutely spot on, about the only way to get those pits is from corrosion of some sort. New casings you buy for reloading are 99 % of the time sold in bulk bags, 50 or 100 usually just loose in the bag. Any marks from then rubbing together buff out in the tumbler or polish out at least to near unnoticeable degree. I don't powdercoat so I'm not comment on quality or procedure there but I have reloaded many thousands of new and used brass so I feel qualified in saying nothing is "normal" about those pits and scratches.


Jeff, yes the 30-06 is longer than a .308. Other differences as well but the common part is both use 30 caliber bullets so the neck opening is identical. This opening is also the same in many other such as 300 Win or 300 Weatherby. There are vast differences between the cartridges I have mentioned but the share the common thing of being 30 caliber.
 
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No, that is not normal. Send them back and ask for a refund of your shipping cost for returning a defective product.

A powdercoated shellcase should have 100% coverage and be completely smooth (unless you are using a wrinkle-paint). There should be no gaps, no pits, no bubbles, no high spots, and no orange-peel. If any of my cartridges came out of the oven with even one such pit, I would strip and recoat it.

Powder paint won't fill dings in the brass, but it will coat them.

You can make a pen from rifle cartridges in most calibers. See http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58313 for a selection. If you want to use a slimline kit nib, I recommend starting out with 308 Winchester (a.k.a. 7.62 NATO). It has a case mouth diameter that is a pretty close match for the nib, and it is about the same length as a slimline tube. If you want to drill out a bullet for the nib, I think 30-06 Springfield is an easier first caliber (308 winds up a bit short). A 30-06 cartridge is a bit longer than a regular slimline lower barrel, but you can simply seat the transmission a bit deeper to compensate (just like on a euro kit).

Regards,
Eric
 
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Hi Alice,
Looks like you got some good answers... the coating did look bad and as some said, the casings should not have been sold in that condition.... I don't make a lot of the cartridge pens,,, don't really like to do them, but they do sell pretty well and I have an inventory of a dozen or more at a local gallery. I use new casings I got from Gander Mountain, about $35 for the bag... they're easier to drill when new because the primer isn't installed and the hold is already centered... I don't powder coat mine, I just spin them on the lathe with a good coating of Brasso and warn my buyers that they can tarnish again, but can be repolished with another coat of Brasso.... doesn't create any problem with sales.
 
I'm a real novice at powder coating (worse at photography), but here is what mine look like. Pic is fairly accurate. Looking at the cartridge case you cannot tell it is powder coated. Can only tell the difference by feel, powder coated case feels more plastic than metallic feel of raw brass.
 

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its_virgil said:
Does anyone have any good reports on the lacquer that is made specially for brass? I know regular lacquer has not worked for me.
Don
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I had pretty good luck with Minwax brushing lacquer, thinned 50% and a little lacquer retarder. HVLP sprayer (I think, I may have used my Little Critter sprayer), 5 or 6 coats. Looks good, feels good, just don't know how it will last.
 

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hkstroud said:
I had pretty good luck with Minwax brushing lacquer, thinned 50% and a little lacquer retarder. HVLP sprayer (I think, I may have used my Little Critter sprayer), 5 or 6 coats. Looks good, feels good, just don't know how it will last.
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I have used most of the available brass lacquers and several formulas of regular lacquer and the coatings all failed within a few months . If the brass is highly polished there is nothing for the lacquer to bite on to and it will chip and peel . If you acid etch the brass first you can get a durable coating but it don't shine very well .
 
I make my own instead of buying just for this reason.Now if you have a buffing wheel and some triple eee buffing (black) you could buff the finish off and also buff the pits and scratches out.After I buff everything out real nice I buy a can of matt finish (ceramic) clear coat and spray the casings.This will keep them from tarnising.
If I was you I would get my money back for that JUNK!!
Good luck!!
JIM
 
elody21 said:
I need to ask. I just bought some bullet shells from someone that said they were polished and powder coated and ready to use. This is how they came. In my eyes they are pitted and not useable. This person agreed to give me a refund but I was angry that they even sold them in this condition. I am now out the postage. Not to mention they were supposed to be for veterans on the 4th. They said they did not understand what the problem was and have sold many of these just like the ones I bought, for $4. or $5. each!?
BTW the photo that was posted did not show the scratches and pits.
My question to you is, Would you accept these as ready to use? Is it normal to have pits in clear powder coating? I needed to ask because I was thinking of getting a powder coating system but if this is the end product I won't bother. Am I being too picky? Is this normal?
elody21
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Two things bother me about this post;

1. The first hilighted comment shows the person has no clue as to making and selling a quality item and yet obviously sells to pen makers here frequently.

2. One of my pet peeves around here, and we see it quite often where one will post a pristine photo of a product which in reality doesn't come close to what is sold. I got burned two years ago buying some "highly figured" amboyna burl blanks that looked really sharp in the photo, only to receive a box of unfigured "culls".

In either case these types of individuals should not be allowed to peddle their junk on IAP and we should have some sort of mechanism to alert the head poohba when we encounter them, sorta like a BBB of IAP!
 
Idb2000,

That's my concern about lacquer. The one shown is about 6 months old. I really don't think it will chip or peel but I don't know how long it will take to wear off. That's why I tried the powder coating. Powder coating looks authentic but does diminish the brightness of the shine slightly relative to the lacquer finish. I have even had some coated with titanium nitride brass. That seems to be the best of all options but it is expensive. Only draw back to the TN is, it makes the case so smooth it is hard to grip when writing.
 
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