is it possible or preferred to skew cut

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TonyL

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With a square carbide blade chisek?

Or fi I need to buy a skew chisel?

Thank you for reading.
 
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Not as simple of a question as it sounds. You could use either one. There is a bit of a learning curve to both. I can use either one and when I use a carbide tool I turn it and use it a bit like a skew. On very brittle materiel I think a sharp skew is better.
 
Both tools have their place. I use both regularly.

For pens I like using an oval skew. It produces unique shavings in my experience.

The inexpensive Benjamin's best works fairly well. I sharpen mine with a diamond hone
 

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Carbide "square" is best used to SCRAPE. Can be used as a skew but not that simple to master. As a carbide tool seller, I can honestly say that after turning well over 100+ with a carbide tool that I became proficient in using it in this matter. I hold the tool with two hands, my left (to guide) and my right (to lightly apply pressure). The carbide insert is moved towards the blank at an angle. As for angle, try different degrees and turn with what feels "comfortable". I know by "sound" and feel when the tool is performing well. Try it on wood and do not go towards plastic(acrylic) until your skill level increases. Wood is more "forgiving" than plastic(acrylic, etc.). As always YMMV.
 
The only thing I see in your picture that goes against conventional wisdom is that the location of impact (pressure) is not directly supported by the rest. This leaves a safety hazard of sorts if you catch a snag. However, since the shank of the tool is so narrow, it may not be much of a hazard compared to a large gouge or skew.

I recently acquired an EWT Easy Start carbide tool, and I love it. However, I don't like using it on acrylics. I am still "honing" my sharpening skills, and have found that a very sharp skew works wonders. A lot of times I leave my grinder and lathe running (they're side by side) so that I can quickly test the grind on a piece of turning stock. If I could keep the edge strait in my skew, I'd be much better off!

I believe it's all in personal preference for tools.
 
I tilt the tool so the blade is at a 45 degree angle (approximately) to the tool rest. I use my skew upside down, too, so my advice is probably not the best.:)

Technically, that's called shear scraping. It cuts very nicely. Sorby makes a tool that holds the carbide insert at an angle, like you're doing there, and they call it a shear scraper.
 
I use it just like Chris. It is not upside down in the picture. He was referring to how he holds his skew. As long as your point of contact is at or above the centerline, as it would be with a skew, the material doesn't seem to care that it isn't a skew.:rolleyes: You can get very sharp radiused-square carbide cutters from globaltooling.net for $2.61 or $0.65 per edge. At several pens per edge, I don't think I will even spend the time to try and hone them. I am still on my first cutter from my December order!

I started out using it flat, but felt like it was safer for the material and more comfortable to use it at a 45 degree tilt as Chris shows. When the shape is perfect and I am down to my bushings, I put the edge down flat, as a scraper to put the smooth on it. I will probably add a round cutter because I don't want to be a one tool guy.

As with all other opinions on IAP, the "best" approach is whatever you learned and are comfortable with.:tongue: As a former beginner with no sharpening skills, I found the carbide was a quick way to get started producing pens. I teach first time turners using carbides because they are easy to learn. I love to watch Don Ward use a skew, but I go back to my carbide. It works just fine for pens.
 
Now if he turned the carbide over that would work like a skew just without a bevel to ride and the tool bar will probably get in the way.
 
The Hunter tools come closer to shear cutting. It has a longer bevel, with that nearly vertical cutting lip. You learn to make that cut, but rubbing the bevel, then raising the back of the handle until it cuts. It is also held at an angle like Chris is showing.
 
I use the Carbide Pen Pro on everything but wood. I use the normal turning tools on wood. I get tired of sharpening all the time. My Grandkids use the pen pro also just easier for them and they are not into wood other than Constant's products. They do not get to do Toni's PC blanks.
 
I've used the radius square carbides for shear scraping/cutting as well. They work in some situations where using that same carbide flat/horizontal will produce tearout or other problems. There are many ways to use each tool…keep basic safety in mind (along with a bit of understanding about what produces a catch) and experiment a bit!

The tools we use in the USA are not the entire set of what's used around the world. I've seen some cool tools/techniques on "How It's Made" (and similar shows) so don't get too boxed in by "tradition" (but don't experiment in stupid ways…hence the words about keeping basic safety/catch-theory in mind).

Those bland, boring blanks…and even the ones that cracked or blew out during drilling…can all be glued to spare tubes where you can practice alternative tools/techniques cheaply.
 
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