Inlace Acrylester

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
sorcerertd

sorcerertd

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
3,177
Location
North Carolina, USA
I don't like this stuff. I've never seen anything crack so easily when drilling, just little hairline fractures. It shines up really nicely, though. Any tips for better results or do I just need to practice more patience?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have had the best luck with it by using 60-degree bits made especially for drilling plastics. The sharper point causes less aggressive penetration and significantly reduces catching that causes cracks and blowouts. I also pay special attention to letting the bit cool off to prevent cracks caused by the flutes packing full. And I try to drill to a depth then saw to expose the hole rather than punching through the bottom of the blank where bit catches are more likely.

Regards,
Dave

PS Inlace can produce gorgeous pens. I also use negative rake cutters when I turn them.
 
Someone once recommended I lubricate the bit with mineral oil a while ago. I also try to actively cool the bit with a compressed air flow while drilling. I wonder if the cracks occur not just because of the inward pressure of the bit, but also expansive pressure as it heats up?

I've been turning some pens made with some wood from my plum tree lately. The plum is beautiful wood, and this particular batch has this purple staining along the pith of these branches (which is being drilled out, but the staining remains as patches and streaks on the finished blanks. The wood is a major pain in the butt to drill, though. It is a lightweight wood, and these branches have dried for about 10 months or more so are quite dry, but man they produce a ton of heat on the bit. I've had the bit get stuck in the blanks numerous times now. Even with a constant stream of air to keep the bit cool (which works quite well overall), I still get this screeching once the bit starts to expand a bit, and I am constantly worrying it'll get stuck in the blank (which sometimes ruins them.)

Anyway, consider both pressure, and the thermal expansion of the bit...both might cause cracking.
 
I've never had a problem drilling it, but it used to break, chip, and explode on me with alarming regularity. I had many more failures than successes. But that changed when I started using a shearing cut with a carbide chisel. Now I don't mind turning it. There are some really nice inlace acrylester blanks.
 

What is inlace acrylester?

In turning some of the inlace acrylester blanks over the past year, I've noticed that it chips out a little easier than other acrylic-type blanks. I've changed to skew-only turning and have no problems anymore, but it's become one of those curiosity creating items for me to learn more about...
www.penturners.org
 
I didn't know what Inlace Acrylester was and lived close enough to WoodTurningz to stop buy and get there seconds for sale by the pick-up desk. As such, that was the only resin blanks I had to learn on and found that rising the bevel with a sharp skew worked well.

Afterwards I discovered the other types of resin blanks which all seemed pretty easy by comparison. The Magic Skew used on a 45 did well after I bought one and the negative rake does good, too, either as a cutter or as a holder.

Wear a face shield if you turn your corners down as chips will fly, but once round cutting or approach at an angle works. Any kind of scrapping action does not.

I have only ever drilled them on the lathe and use brad point bits sharp enough to trim your nose hair with and never pull any out. Gentle in and out clearing as you go. Once the point comes through the back side, go easy and watch the cutting edges make a circle.
 
Lemme ask a stupid question if I might.

If inlace acrylester is so tricky to drill and turn, why use it?
 
Here is why I use it. Some of the things that make it more difficult are byproducts of some of the things that make it more desirable. The resin is hard and brittle but it is also designed to be highly filled, so more dyes and powders equals more vibrant colors. It's hardness also makes it sand and polish to a glasslike high gloss. The hardness also makes it more durable so the glasslike gloss lasts a long time even with a lot of handling and use. Cost is also a factor. It is usually less than half the price of easier to turn plastics like Alumilite. $3 or $4 vs $10 to $12. - Dave
 
egnald said:
Here is why I use it. Some of the things that make it more difficult are byproducts of some of the things that make it more desirable. The resin is hard and brittle but it is also designed to be highly filled, so more dyes and powders equals more vibrant colors. It's hardness also makes it sand and polish to a glasslike high gloss. The hardness also makes it more durable so the glasslike gloss lasts a long time even with a lot of handling and use. Cost is also a factor. It is usually less than half the price of easier to turn plastics like Alumilite. $3 or $4 vs $10 to $12. - Dave
Click to expand...
Ah, that all makes sense.

Thanks.
 
I actually like the stuff. I found that the trick on drilling is to not drill all the way through the blank. I cut the blank in two and then drill from the matching ends just slightly deeper than the length of the brass tube. Then I cut the non-drilled end of the blank off so that the blank is just slightly proud of the brass tube. Face with sandpaper and not with an end mill. As far as turning goes, I never start turning with square edges. I always round them out. This minimizes chipouts. Sharp tools, light cuts, and turn them around 1000 rpm.
 
IMG_3407.jpeg

Carbide and sharp drill bits
 
I cut (or can one can sand) the corners off. I then use a roughing gouge followed by a skew. However, I sharpen both tools about 10 times per barrel. I find using the toe (top) of the skew make really fine cuts. I also use carbide (all types of cutters), but my results are better using high quality, very, very sharp HSS. Just what has worked for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom