Indoor casting?

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RonSchmitt

RonSchmitt

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
544
Location
Milwaukee, Wi, USA.
Ok,
Bought a pressure pot off of carigslist ($20:biggrin:) and it has no leaks. Started reading the casting forum and came across a post that mentions "giving off fumes", as my shop is in the basement, should I wait until spring and do my casting in the garage, or is indoor casting safe?
Thanks
 
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If you have anywhere you can run a 4" exhaust vent out of the basement like a basement window, then you can use a bathroom exhaust fan and make/build an enclosure/fume hood and vent fumes safely from your workspace. Cost should be in the $25.00 range for all the parts needed.
 
When it is cold outside I mix and pour my resin in the garage. After sealing/pressurizing the pot I bring it into the house and put it in the guest bathroom for 2 or 3 days. I take the pot outside to release the pressure (and the smell).
 
Whats the temp in the basement? I think 70 is about where you want it at. So, as well as fumes you've got that to consider.
 
If you're using poylester resin, that stuff stinks like the dickens, and the fumes are REALLY not good for you. You definitely will not want to do that in the house without a vent hood setup....you probably won't even want to do it in the garage. Alumilite is the way to go....I've tried about 5 times now to get the pressure casting set right with PR, and I've just never been able to get it, it smells, and it takes forever. Alumilite is a little more expensive, but in the long run you'll save money because the PR catalyst ratio is challenging to master...you'll waste so much material getting the ratio right that you'll negate any of your savings!!
 
PR does smell and can cause health issues, so I don't use it inside anymore. As for wasting a lot of material, getting the ratio correct or it taking forever is only a personal opinion. I have never wasted any material and the mix ratio is right on the can or sheet that comes with it. It needs some adjustments according to your environment(i.e. temp., humidity, etc.) but, if the mix is as on the directions, it will set. There is also no need for a PP for casting PR alone. I have my blanks ready to turn in less than an hour from the time they are poured.
 
Even though Alumilite has no smell it is putting out fumes, what are the long term affects? Some of this "stuff" we breath takes years before we find out it is a health hazard. Who wants to be a long term test "animal"?
 
GouletPens said:
Alumilite is a little more expensive
Click to expand...

Try double the cost of PR.

GouletPens said:
PR catalyst ratio is challenging to master
Click to expand...

What is so hard about 3 or 4 drops/oz? I argue Alumilite is harder because to do it correctly it needs to be measured by weight. I did not like that I only had five minutes of open time with Alumilite. I can not achieve the same level of polish/shine that I can with PR. Additionally, I was never able to produce a single successful label cast with Alumilite.

I use PR.
 
Blind_Squirrel said:
Try double the cost of PR.
What is so hard about 3 or 4 drops/oz? I argue Alumilite is harder because to do it correctly it needs to be measured by weight. I did not like that I only had five minutes of open time with Alumilite. I can not achieve the same level of polish/shine that I can with PR. Additionally, I was never able to produce a single successful label cast with Alumilite.
I use PR.
Click to expand...

Damn, and I was just about to switch to Alumilite. I can't seem to get a
hard enough finish on the PR. Nice shine lasts until it touches something..

I've done OK pouring and mixing by the window with a fan blowing out and
another bringing fresh air in, and I also release the pressure into the fan
blowing out. I mix in a deli container (think pints of potato salad) and then
put it on an old scroll saw that has never worked except to vibrate.. I do
that with the cover on, so fumes aren't all that bad. (at least not as bad
as when I used to make it in a 30 gallon cement mixer)

Turning on the metal lathe has some advantages, too. I can turn down to
about 1/32 above the bushings and then take them to the wood lathe.
Sand, MM, plastic polish .. Ren wax .. looks great. But not a hard finish.
Should I be waiting longer? 24-36 hours from mix to assembly?
 
when i do my castings in my basement.....once it has hardened to the point that i can take it out of the mold....i put it in a toaster over set at 150 for an hour or so.....once it cools, it's not sticky and ready to turn.....and i've had no problems with it being soft once it comes out of the oven.....just my 2 cents
 
NewLondon88 said:
Damn, and I was just about to switch to Alumilite. I can't seem to get a
hard enough finish on the PR. Nice shine lasts until it touches something..
Click to expand...

You may want to either use a little more hardener or just wait longer before turning. Wait till it's cured then put it somewhere warm. Lay it on a heater vent or something in the house for a few days, see if that helps the shine out.

**edit hughbie somewhat beat me to it!
 
Skye said:
You may want to either use a little more hardener or just wait longer before turning. Wait till it's cured then put it somewhere warm. Lay it on a heater vent or something in the house for a few days, see if that helps the shine out.

**edit hughbie somewhat beat me to it!
Click to expand...

I'm putting the pressure pot on top of the radiator, and then when I demold
I put it in either a toaster oven on warm, or just put it on the tray and back
on top of the radiator.

Maybe I'm turning it too soon..
 
NewLondon88 said:
I'm putting the pressure pot on top of the radiator, and then when I demold
I put it in either a toaster oven on warm, or just put it on the tray and back
on top of the radiator.

Maybe I'm turning it too soon..
Click to expand...

What type of PR is it you are using?

Silmar 41's optimum post cure temp is 130 deg F for 1 hour for 1 inch thickness, according to the lab techs at the Interplastics Silmar products div.

You then need to let it cool completely.
 
Glass Scratcher said:
What type of PR is it you are using?

Silmar 41's optimum post cure temp is 130 deg F for 1 hour for 1 inch thickness, according to the lab techs at the Interplastics Silmar products div.

You then need to let it cool completely.
Click to expand...

I've been using either the Castin Craft (had some left) or the stuff from
Sturgiss .. ArtStuff? forget at the moment.

I may also have misspoken. Some of the 'abrasion' I thought I was seeing
is actually from the pocket I carry the pen in. It has a velcro closure, and
I don't care for velcro on a pocket. So I took another piece of velcro and
put it over the piece in the pocket. This piece I put on has an adhesive
backing and the plastic is coming off. So the adhesive is now on the pen.
I just tracked this down this morning after I re-did the tube on the lathe
and put fresh Renwax on it.
Two hours later, it had minor scratches, but a big honkin 'abraded' looking
spot on it. Found that the spot cleaned up with DNA .. :redface:
So much for soft and gummy..
 
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