I'm FRUSTRATED

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altaciii

altaciii

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
1,238
Location
corpus christi, texas, USA.
I just spent the last hour and a half trying to adjust my 9" ryobi table bandsaw. I changed the blade out this afternoon and all went well until I tried to cut a piece of waste wood. I have about a 1/4" drift that I never had before. I went thru 4 blanks (all pine) at 1/4" pieces and could never get it to cut a straight line. I did everything I could do except throw the damn thing in the trash. How do I get it to cut a 90 degree????? Help!
 
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Try filing the back edges of the blade. If it has a burr, it will cause drift.
 
Look closely at the blade and make sure that the set is equal on both sides of the blade. Teeth in an alternating pattern. If they are wrong, you will have major problems . If it pulls in the same direction each cut, I would be suspicious of the set. If you went to a different width blade, make sure the guides are adjusted to the new blade. Yea, I have done that. :redface:
 
I bought a 9" Delta 4 years ago when I was in the States and had the same problems. Since most of my tools were over here (Japan) I just needed something to "get by" with for blanks. That was a mistake. Different blades didn't work. Made my own "guides" and that helped only in a minor way.

The only conclusion that I came up with is that the smaller BS do not have the tension needed for cutting consistently on 3/4 and 1 inch wood. Even at full tension, I could deflect the blade too much - at least in my opinion. No matter what blade is used, if the tension is not enough for 3/4 and 1 inch wood, the blade will wander.

I also think that my problem centered around the "Delta". I haven't read ANY good reports on that machine.
 
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Hank is right...

Those little hobby bandsaw's do not have the frame strength to be able to tension the blade enough to get a decent cut.

The only thing I can think of is to get a Timberwolf blade and cut real slow... just let the teeth do the work and don't push the wood hardly at all.
 
Alex, I have a small delta that has the same drift. I fought to get the darned cut straight and overcome the drifting but it finally beat me. So I figured "just go with it".

I kinda overcame this by drawing a straight line about 1 inch from the edge of a striaght piece of plywood. Then I started to cut the wood freehand following the line. As I got half way thru the cut I turned off power to my saw and reset my "fence"( just a piece of wood clamped down) to the same line/angle as the wood being cut. I now have my angle needed to cut my blanks striaght even with the drift of the blade.

My starting material will not be 90 deg to the table but when cutting it will cut at 90 deg to the blade. Works for me and is alot better than freehand and strugling with the darn drift.
 
I threw mine in the trash!The only way I could get a semi-straight cut was free hand.I now have a 14" grizzly that took about 15 minutes to get dialed in and haven't had to adjust it in over 2 years!
 
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