I have an idea and want to hear how crazy you all think it is

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mightymavkev

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Feb 13, 2013
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So I've been experimenting with a "different" finish for antler then CA. I've noticed several folks for whom I've made antler pens have had the CA finish dull on them where their fingers hold the pen the most. Some are worse than others and it definitely seems to vary by person (which give some merit to that one theory I read someone give that we all have some acetone in our skin :) ) I had one that I made actually look like the finish came completely off where their thumb held the pen, but I'm more inclined to believe that one was just a bad finish on my part.

Anyway, I have been doing the Pens Plus finish with Doctors walnut oil using Mike's process that he described for his wood pens on my antler. I actually kind of like the way it comes out. It's leaves a satin finish but still leaves the texture of the bone to the touch. Kind of makes it a little more "natrual" looking (and feeling) in my opinion. The even better news is that my 2 test pens out there with this finish are holding up so far. So time will tell, but positive to this point.

But even if that option pans out, there's always going to be that desire for a nice glass like finish and I started thinking about something and I wanted to know if any of you have tried this already or if you all just think I'm nuts (which is only partially rhetorical) :)

I was wondering if I could turn the blank first to BELOW bushing diameter but not as far as the tube. Then cast it with clear resin in one of those "tube in" type molds, then turn that back down to bushing diameter.

At that point, the finish would resin and not CA and would only require wet sanding and buffing and I believe the antler would look just as good as it does after a brand new shiny CA finish comes off the buffer.

I'm not sure how well this would work and I realize it's ALOT more work than maybe it's worth, but whenever I get setup to dabble in casting, I'm thinking I might try it just to see what happens.

I figure worst case, I just turn it all the way back down to bone and make a slimline instead of a bullet pen.

Again, I'm inviting the backlash if this is stupid, just be gentile as it's only an idea. :)

Thanks all,

Kevin
 
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Hey Kevin,

The idea is doable but! I think you would loose the effect of feeling the antler. I use CA to fill the voids in the marrow and maybe a light coat of thin which will get buffed off.

Question: Are the same people using the pens with the Pens Plus finish? The discoloration could be due to the owners occupation. Mechanics hands might be exposed numerous solvents during the day, where as a dental hygienist's hands will be exposed mostly to talc (in the nitrile gloves) as well as soap and water.

Just some thoughts...
 
Thanks Vic!

Yeah, one of the test pens is with the same person who had their CA finish dull on them and so far so good.

I agree, I like the antler look and feel. But I also have made some for folks with the CA finish and they like the glass like finish, so I'd like to find something that will give me that when needed.

I've never had a plastic pen dull on me (that I know of anyway). They're super easy to wet sand and finish and that's why I was thinking that casting a turned antler blank might have some merit.

Anyway, I'm no where near ready to start trying this. This is just my mind prematurely wandering on this topic while I wait for my shop to get built :)

(It's just a muddy footer trench and a big pile of dirt in my backyard right now).
 
Oh, these are all office workers. So outside of hand lotion or that disinfectant crap that is all the rave these days I wouldn't think anything else weird would be coming in contact with their hands. Then again, I'm not sure that's a question I want a complete answer to :)

All jokes aside, I suppose the lotions and disinfectants that everyone uses on their hands these days probably could have an impact on pen finishes. I actually never really thought about that until you brought it up.
 
Keven: I use a 3 grade wax finish on my antlers, done on the lathe at high speed. They come out with a natural finish that feels good to the hand. Not only does it seal the pores, but it can easly be rewaxed without taking it apart or using a buffing wheel. Tell your buyer to use a good auto polish to clean and recoat it every couple of months, or when it gets dull. Jim S
 
I like a satin CA finish, I apply the CA as usual including the polishing then I take 800 grit or something similar and go over the finish to knock off the shine. There are also some of the polishes that will leave a satin finish instead of a gloss.
 
I NEVER use CA on antler, just a good buff and then some Renaissance Wax afterward. I don't like the way CA fills up all the voids, I think antler should be more natural.
 
I NEVER use CA on antler, just a good buff and then some Renaissance Wax afterward. I don't like the way CA fills up all the voids, I think antler should be more natural.

I was gonna say that sometimes on certain antler I can get a great shine without adding any finish.

I've had a couple prices where I felt like I had to use ca whether I wanted to or not. Too much marrow showing.
 
Over Casting is the phrase I use for what you described. Turning to below the bushings, sanding and polishing down to the point where the turning would be ready to put on a finish, then casting it in a resin saver mold and turning again. I've used it on wood in the past and it makes an absolutely incredibly clean and deep finish. My experience is that it looks great but sells slow.

I also did a test casting and re-turning with antler, in my opinion it entirely lost the natural look, I didn't even bother assembling it into a pen. I turn hundreds of antler pens every year and finish all of them with CA, and have been doing it for 4-5 years. I've seen some of the pens I sold 3-5 years ago and they still look good. I've seen the plating wear off before the CA wears off. But I would still like to find a quicker way to finish antler, it takes a long time to build up a thick layer of CA.
 
Thanks everyone. I'm happy with the Pens Plus finish for the natural look. Chasper, I appreciate your feedback on doing the over casting. That's what I was looking for advice on.

I want to clarify that I'm not saying every single CA pen has problems for me. Quite the contrary, it's only a small percentage I think, but CA getting thrown around in pockets with keys and coins and in purses with all that stuff and then handled doesn't really seem to hold up. It's still a nice finish and I'll probably keep doing it for lack of a better way but I wanted to discuss this "over casting" idea.

So I may still try it just to see for myself but I trust Chasper's findings and I was worried about that very thing. I don't want it to look like a "picture" of antler cast in resin - which I was worried having too much depth might make it look like.

I'm not in this as deep as most of you. It's not a business or anything. I've sold only a few pens. Most of my pens have been for friends and then word of mouth from there. But I'd still like to make the best piece I can regardless so it's still important to me even though it's not a source of income per se.

Thanks again to all for the feedback. Very helpful.

Kevin
 
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I've had a couple prices where I felt like I had to use ca whether I wanted to or not. Too much marrow showing.


I was going to add that I agree with this. I try to get as much color contrast as I can - and I tend to be drawn to the really dark pieces - which, in my experience anyway, the darker the marrow, the chalkier and "punkier" it is. I've had to use CA on some pieces just to keep it together, but man I like the way it looks.
 
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