I can't keep my sandwich together

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brownsfn2

brownsfn2

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I can now successfully use my table saw to get very even slices of wood so I can sandwich them together. I have been making the slices even width as well so that when I glue them together they make a square. The problem I am having is that when I glue this sandwich together the middle layers pop up out of the sandwich due to the glue acting as lubricant. I am using 5-min epoxy because I have found it gives me plenty of working time.

So I guess I need to build a jig to help me hold everything together while I clamp it so the glue can dry.

Does anyone have some ideas or advice?

Thanks!
 
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I'm not 100% sure of your layup, but when I did a segmented blank with 45deg cuts, it wanted to spit all of the pieces out when I clamped the ends. I tried a few different methods to keep things together and all worked a bit. I think time is your friend in this. A way I settled on was to glue all of the parallel pieces together at one time and let it dry. When I went to glue the ends on, I was then able to have plenty of room to clamp along the axis and also perpendicular where the pieces were trying to push out. I did OK with a simple right angle jig and a bunch of clamps, but it was a lot of work and part of the fun of segmenting for me is doing a little work and letting time pass. I typically use Tightbond for all wood construction. I also tend to use veneer between pieces and I don't pre-trim the veneer, so there are rough edges everywhere.

Not sure if that's helpful, but it seems like a valid way of assembling pieces (i.e. just a few at a time, not the whole shebang).

Sandy.
 
I have made gluing jigs from small pieces, .25" thick, of Ultra High Molec... Weight plastic (UHMW), put together with screws. (Looks like a short piece of angle iron.) The blank being glued sits inside the angle. This provides a 90* reference and clamps are used on the two exposed sides of the blank. The width of the jig is less than blank thickness for ease of clamping. Adhesive does not adhere well to the UHMW, providing easy release. I can also clamp a segmented blank that has a diagonal segment in the jig and then put a clamp lengthwise to force the multiple segment pieces together. I use epoxy for segment work.
 
SteveG said:
I have made gluing jigs from small pieces, .25" thick, of Ultra High Molec... Weight plastic (UHMW), put together with screws. (Looks like a short piece of angle iron.) The blank being glued sits inside the angle. This provides a 90* reference and clamps are used on the two exposed sides of the blank. The width of the jig is less than blank thickness for ease of clamping. Adhesive does not adhere well to the UHMW, providing easy release. I can also clamp a segmented blank that has a diagonal segment in the jig and then put a clamp lengthwise to force the multiple segment pieces together. I use epoxy for segment work.
Click to expand...


Will Epoxy stick to it? Is this the same stuff cutting boards are made of?

I think I have an old cutting board. Hmmm....
 
as crazy as this sounds but it works. Sprinkle some salt between those layers... fine table salt. and the salt melts away from the water in the glue. and doesn't cause issues with it either. I never have had issues.
your using epoxy... never mind if you were using regular wood glue then go for the salt
 
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Will Epoxy stick to it? Is this the same stuff cutting boards are made of?

I think I have an old cutting board. Hmmm....[/quote]

Epoxy will easily pry loose from UHMW, but UHMW is not the same stuff as cutting boards. Still, it will not hurt to try a test piece.

Steve
 
I ran into the same problem. I now use a tube that is 1" longer than the finished barrel. I predrill each segment, apply epoxy and slide them onto tube. I have two pieces of wood 2" long turned to 2" dia. with a hole a little larger than the brass tube, with wax paper between segments and these turned wood pieces I slide the turned wood pieces onto each end of exposed tube and but into vise and tighten. Next morning it is ready to turn. Later I might post a drawing of this. Good luck.

Ben
 
There is multiple methods to this.... Several above will work.
Google for: Morning After Tutorial
Ron was great at segmented blanks - I don't always follow his direction on blank segmenting because I often make blanks without knowing what kit they are going on... But his method definitely solves the issue you are describing.
 
The one huge pucker factor that stands out glaringly is the gloves being worn when using the miter saw. That is a huge no-no. Those things get hung up, your fingers are toast. You do not wear gloves especially of that nature around rotating machinery along with loose fitting sleeves. Safety.

While I agree with the method of stack building I do not agree with the glue choice. I prefer epoxy.

Now if you are stack building but not on a tube then I choose med CA. unless the material is all wood then glue choice is Titebond II
 
If you are cutting your blank on your table saw just lower the blade and leave about 1/16" of the blank uncut. This will keep both ends in perfect alignment. I neveer cut segmented blanks into two parts if I can keep them attached. This very thin layer always turns off.

If you are cutting into two parts with a angle at the glue point even clamping will always be tricky. You can take a metal L shaped angle and wrap it in Saran wrap to use as a gluing jig. Clamp one end to the L tightly. Place the insert covered with glue next, place the second blank end in place. Lightly clamp the second end against the L and then place a third clamp end to end on the blank. Slowly tighten this clamp to bring the second part into place. Add a little pressure to the second clamp and finish tightening the third clamp. Perhaps not needed but I then would add two other clamps from above and below to keep the blank in line. The Saran wrap keeps the blank from sticking to the metal and catches any extra runoff of glue.
 
Holz Mechaniker said:
as crazy as this sounds but it works. Sprinkle some salt between those layers... fine table salt. and the salt melts away from the water in the glue. and doesn't cause issues with it either. I never have had issues.
your using epoxy... never mind if you were using regular wood glue then go for the salt
Click to expand...

That is an awesome idea. I have always kept a small jar of sand near my work bench for when i am doing edge glue ups. One grain of sand will keep the boards from slipping. However if you put the grain to close to the edge and ever hit that grain of sand with your hand plane, you will shed a few tears.

I am definitely going to try this in my next glue up.
 
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