Stabilization How to use or prepare into blanks?

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Talltim

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I have obtained an old tool handle from a famous historical individual (verified) and want to turn some pens from it. It has some cracks in the would. What would be the best way to prepare it. This is a rare chance for me for about 10 limited edition pens.


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I do not know about "best" way... I can say what I would do...
I would cut that handle to the length of future blanks and if you will get pieces chipped out due to cracks I would save those. Than stabilized in clear Cactus Juice. After that cut to blanks and cast it to fill those cracks.
Others might go different route, but they will put it here.
 
To TallTim; If you decide to cut without stabilization, wrap the tool handle in a layer or two of (only) painters tape. This will restrain any chips or small pieces from leaving for parts unknown. Just put enough on to hold onto any pieces and cut safely while keeping your fingers away from the saw blade.

An old tool handle is most likely made of hickory. Unless the wood is going soft, I doubt that stabilization will have much effect. I'd just cut it into blanks, and glue any splits back together.

Regards,
Eric
 
To TallTim; If you decide to cut without stabilization, wrap the tool handle in a layer or two of (only) painters tape. This will restrain any chips or small pieces from leaving for parts unknown. Just put enough on to hold onto any pieces and cut safely while keeping your fingers away from the saw blade.



An old tool handle is most likely made of hickory. Unless the wood is going soft, I doubt that stabilization will have much effect. I'd just cut it into blanks, and glue any splits back together.



Regards,

Eric



Thanks for your comments. Should I fill the cracks with CA before turning?



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After cutting close to the size blank you want, you could then cast the blank in Alumilite or colored Alumilite, similar to the way worthless wood is cast.
 
Should I fill the cracks with CA before turning?
If there is a split large enough for the pieces to separate, I'd glue them back together with PVA wood glue. If not, I'd try to wick CA glue into the crack. After drilling, I'd drizzle more thin CA glue into the hole to secure any cracks on the inside (and then ream out the hole again before gluing in a tube). While turning, if I felt uneasy about the integrity of the crack, I'd use more thin CA on the crack(s).

Good luck,
Eric
 
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