How To Glue Tubes

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emtmike

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Just wondering what is the best product to use for gluing tubes in blanks. I now use CA and am not always happy with it. Sometimes the tubes will spin out when I end mill.
 
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Hee Hee... Oh man, this is gonna be good!!

Personaly, I like the gorilla glue. I am not in a huge hurry to have to turn one the same day so I don't mind letting it dry over night. If I was, I would use the epoxy, but I hate mixing the stuff and looking for some scrap wood I can use as a stir stick. CA? I know it's the favorite, but I always seem to get the CA on my fingers and I do not like the gap filling of it.

I have a wood block turned down with the cap stuck in the center of it. The GA will glue the cap in place and keeping it upside down helps the life span. You can glue A LOT of blanks with a small round bottle of GA.

Now, the fun can begin! Eagle?? [}:)]
 
My preference is 30 minute epoxy. I can glue up about 12 tubes before it starts getting too stiff to work with. I use old yoghurt lids to mix it on and a square ended palette knife to mix it. If I only have one or two to glue up, I use Sumo glue. I guess I'm not quick enough for CA because I've had a lot of tubes get stuck before they get all the way in, even with the thickest stuff I could find.

The main thing is too find something that works for you and don't worry about what anyone else says. I know Eagle only uses CA, but that doesn't mean it's the right answer for everyone.
 
I started using CA but had alot of blowouts. I know some of the members don't recommend Sumo for tubes but since using it I haven't had one disaster[:D] That is just my experience I will be the first to tell you I"M NO EXPERT[:p]
 
I'm using 12 minutes epoxy that I mix on a post-it! When you're done just take away the post-it and a new one is right there for you... Beeing a doctor I use a tongue depressor that I split in half with an X-Acto blade. One quick move is all it takes. You can buy tongue depressors by the box at the pharmacy or ask your medical doctor or chiropractor where they get theirs. They are really cheap. [;)]
 
Polyurethane is the best! No, wait. If I'm in a hurry...30 minute epoxy is the best! No, No. That's not always right. If I'm in a big hurry, medium CA is the Best! Hmmm...I think that's right. Well, unless I'm in a stranger than usual mood, then I don't glue tubes in at all!

Oh, and if you spinning the tubes out while squaring the blank, none of the above matters. You either 1) are not getting complete coverage, or 2) you are "French" kissing the tubes, or 3) you are not letting the CA cure. [8D]
 
I like two part epoxy, I plug the tube ends with play-doh so I don't get any inside the tubes and if you use the 5 minute stuff they can be turned in as little as an hour.
 
I have to stand firm on my 5 minute epoxy as first choice, then GG and CA last.

No particular reason other than it's what works best for me [:D]
 
Originally posted by emtmike
<br />Just wondering what is the best product to use for gluing tubes in blanks. I now use CA and am not always happy with it. Sometimes the tubes will spin out when I end mill.
Click to expand...
Perhaps if you told us how you are gluing in your tubes with CA we could ascertain what might improve your method.
I have been using CA exclusively for 2&1/2 years and I can count on one hand how may times I have had the tube spin in the blank.
Not to sound condescending but it sounds like operator error.
You aren't trying to glue them in with thin CA are you?
 
Originally posted by emtmike
<br />yes [:I]
Click to expand...

Try thick[^]
Here is a set of gluing tips I send to those who purchase inlay blanks from me.take a look at it if you wish, it is acompilation of ideas I have read here and some I came up with myself.
Let me start out by relating what happened one afternoon in my shop over a
year ago.
I had been working on a number of glue ups.I cut drilled glued and milled
them and proceeded to put them on the mandrel.IN less than 2 hours I managed
to have all three blow out on the lathe.Needless to say I was pi$$ed.
After speaking with DC and discussing what could be the possible problem I
assessed the cause to be inadequate coverage of adhesive on the blank /tube
in at least part of the area where the blow out occurred.
The following includes what I did to rectify the situation and have not
experienced any blow outs since.
These are SUGGESTIONS.
I realize you have spent your hard earned money on these blanks and your
goal is to make a pen out of them. It is an equal situation with me.I have
put a lot of work into the design of this blank but I don't need a lot of
blanks with inlays in them unless someone else wants them.I enjoy the
woodworking aspect of pen making as much as turning out a finished pen.
It will serve no purpose to either of us if they do not reach
completion.Neither one of us will be happy.If you were standing in the door
of an airplane and the jump master suggests you pull the rip cord on the
parachute after counting to ten, but you choose not to take his suggestion
and you fall to your death
whos'fault is it?(I have always liked that question)
I am sure you are familiar with the kit you intend to put in these blanks.
Scuff the tubes! don't just wipe them I hate to scuff tubes it is a
mindless activity I wish I could get my daughter or wife to do.
I have found a method that surpasses anything else I have tried.I use my
bench sander.I put the tubes on a long handled crew driver that is a loose
fit.I turn on the sander and directing the shaft with the tubes on them
angle them into the direction of the travel of the belt.If you angle them
the other way you will only make that mistake once,(DAMHIKT) The tubes will
literally "bounce" on the shaft of the screw driver It takes a few seconds.I
take them of reverse their position and do it again. DONE in less than 15
seconds.



1. Take a moment to decide where you want the inlay to fall in relation to
the clip.I have made the blanks long enough so that you can play with
that.Cut the blank to length.

2. It is not necessary to drill these on the lathe but do so if you are more
comfortable with that method.I drilled the first one as I would have done 2
years ago when I first started making pens.Bench top Ryobi drill press.
3. Drill to the center of the pattern not the center of the blank.The inlay
should be in the vertical center of the blank but these are not done on a
CNC or laser engraved.I am pretty accurate but not perfect.
The inlay is at least 1/4 inch deep which is 1/3 the thickness of the
blank.drill center and you can put it in any kit other than a B2B
slimline.OR a Panache
(This blank will also fit on a Gent or larger bodied pen but I have a
different procedure for that, write me if you are interested in doing one)

4. This should go without saying but make sure your DP table is
perpendicular to the bit
and the drill bit is sharp.I prefer a split point bit for all drilling,use
what YOU feel comfortable with.
5. After you have drilled for your tube drizzle a little thin CA inside the
hole and let it set.After about 5 minutes give it a shot of accelerant and
wait a minute or two. Clean out the hole by running the bit through it
again.I have found it is not necessary to put it back in the vice. I hold
the blank in my hand and run it up the bit,You have already established the
direction of the hole, putting it in the vice serves no purpose.You can also
chuck up a bit in a Jacobs chuck and ream it out by hand.

GLUING THE TUBE IN
Regardless of what adhesive you use the most important thing to remember is
that you need good glue coverage between the tube and the blank.
I prefer to use thick CA but have used polyurethane on certain materials.I
see benefits of both but since I am impatient by nature and want to start
turning as soon as possible I use CA.
When I made my first pen I noticed the end of the tube acted like a
"Squeegee" when I inserted the glue covered tube into the blank.Remember
that day I had the three blow outs?
There was very little glue in the area the blow outs occurred and the blow
outs predominantly appeared at the ends opposite the end I inserted the
tube from.
This is what I do to cure that situation.

PLUG THE END OF THE TUBE THAT WILL BE INSERTED INTO THE TUBE FIRST.

You can use as some do, a chunk of potato.(potatoes are expensive here in
S.C.,I put them in stew but not my pens)
Some use base plate wax.(I went to Wal Mart on a Sunday afternoon but they
don't carry it.)
I use paraffin though I have read others use regular candle wax,I don't see
any difference than the paraffin I keep in the shop.Either should work.
Scrape the edge of the tube on the wax a few times and you will see it"build
up" to the other end.Find a rod with a square edge like a punch or the back
end of a drill bit that fits in the tube. Place the tube on a hard surface
like a piece of corian or a cutting board or float glass. Using the "rod"
tamp the wax to the bottom of the tube so it is "flush".Here's a little
trick I learned if I am cutting my blanks with little room for error in
length.
Push the wax plug out a 1/16 of an inch so it is proud of the tube.This will
serve as a "depth gauge" when you insert the tube in the blank.When the
waxed end of the tube appears at the opposite end of the blank you have it
in far enough.It works for me use it if you wish.
Glue coverage.
Have you ever noticed that the glue you apply on the tube winds up on the
end of the blank? What I do to alleviate this situation is to put LESS glue
on the tube and put a bead of glue IN the hole around and inside the top
edge.AS I insert the tube it forces the glue into the blank and not drip off
the top edge.I have not had a blow out using this method
I put a piece of wax paper on my bench when I do this.(sometimes)
A little tip for those of you who use CA a lot.Get a cheap plastic cutting
board and a roll of Packing tape.the kind that is about 2 inches wide, the
clear stuff for packages you ship.I use Duck brand for this purpose.Put a
couple of strips on the cutting board and do your glue up over this or use
it as a work surface.CA will harden on it but does not bond to it well,it
can be scraped off with a chisel.The glue residue from the tape can be
wiped off with alcohol.I use this method for a work surface when I am doing
glue ups.
After I insert the tubes I hit the ends with accelerant and set them aside
for a minute or two(remember I use CA and am impatient.) This is where I
light a cigarette and wait a moment
to mill them.Find something to do in the shop like changing the shaft on
your mill.
From this point treat the blank as you would any other.When you turn it,
like with anything you turn you should use sharp tools.
I will not say what particular tool I use because I think you should use the
tool you are most comfortable with.I could say I use such and such chisel
but I may have a different angle on my grind,I may have my tool rest at a
different height.I am completely self taught and from what little I have
seen others actually turning, my technique is unorthodox but it works and it
is too late to teach an OLD EAGLE new tricks.
I do SUGGEST that you stabilize with thin CA as you turn any blank that may
have a glue up in it.(treat it like spalted or a punky blank.I only use
sound wood but I have no control over what I cannot see)
This hardens the surrounding woods .It will also eventually stop any color
transfer as you start sanding.
When you are ready to start sanding give it another thin coat of thin CA.
Again this serves the purpose of sealing the color of the woods in the
blank.
Some might ask why not a sanding sealer?
I have found that if I use a sanding sealer first and sand through it I can
get a color "bleed" .
It is more difficult to sand through a thin coat of Ca than sealer.
After the first sanding by all means use a sanding sealer you are
comfortable with.
That's it!
Finish it with what you feel comfortable with.
I am not a finishing expert and since you invested the money to buy the
blank in the first place you are confident enough in that aspect of pen
crafting to turn out a great looking pen whatever you use for a blank.
I hope these tips help, most of them are things I have read or picked up
along the way.
Any questions you know how to get a hold of me.
There are only two reasons for doing anything in life.One of them is to
learn the other is for entertainment.I hope you enjoy turning a pen from
this blank, and learn something from the experience.
Also remember when in doubt,
PULL THE RIP CORD!
 
The boys and I have been using Eagle's CA method since we first received his cross inlay blanks. We use tea lights (small candles) that we get from the dollar store ($1 for a pack of 12) to plug the ends of the tubes, along with thick CA. We have had great success with the process.
 
Originally posted by NavyDiver
<br /> We use tea lights (small candles) that we get from the dollar store ($1 for a pack of 12) to plug the ends of the tubes, along with thick CA. We have had great success with the process.
Click to expand...

Is that cheaper than the stuff BB sells? I think it's less than 50 cents a sheet and is something that dentists use? You might want to check it out. it also pops out fo the end very easily, hardly anything to clean up, since it's not that thick. I'd think it would clean up easier than candle wax might?
 
Originally posted by Blind_Squirrel
<br />What do you do/use to get the wax residue out of the tube?
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Get seveal different sizes of gun cleaning brushes then twist them in and out until the tubes are cleaned.
 
Originally posted by LanceD
<br />
Originally posted by Blind_Squirrel
<br />What do you do/use to get the wax residue out of the tube?
Click to expand...

Get seveal different sizes of gun cleaning brushes then twist them in and out until the tubes are cleaned.
Click to expand...
I use the ckosest bit that will fit in the tube from the"other" end and "drill" out the wax and any resulting plug.
I have found an exacto knife with"shave" the glue out in one piece.
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />
Originally posted by NavyDiver
<br /> We use tea lights (small candles) that we get from the dollar store ($1 for a pack of 12) to plug the ends of the tubes, along with thick CA. We have had great success with the process.
Click to expand...

Is that cheaper than the stuff BB sells? I think it's less than 50 cents a sheet and is something that dentists use? You might want to check it out. it also pops out fo the end very easily, hardly anything to clean up, since it's not that thick. I'd think it would clean up easier than candle wax might?
Click to expand...
Canning parafin is what I use.
HAndy to have in the shop when working with CA.
 
Originally posted by angboy
<br />
Originally posted by NavyDiver
<br /> We use tea lights (small candles) that we get from the dollar store ($1 for a pack of 12) to plug the ends of the tubes, along with thick CA. We have had great success with the process.
Click to expand...

Is that cheaper than the stuff BB sells? I think it's less than 50 cents a sheet and is something that dentists use? You might want to check it out. it also pops out fo the end very easily, hardly anything to clean up, since it's not that thick. I'd think it would clean up easier than candle wax might?
Click to expand...

I didn't know that BB carried wax. When we got Eagle's instructions, I went scrounging for something to use and found a brand new package of tea lights in my wife's china cabinet. I was sure she wouldn't miss just one [B)] [:p]. Somehow the whole package has migrated to our workshop [;)] [:D]. I'll have to try a sheet or two of BB's wax with our next order.
 
This has to be one of the three most commonly cussed/discussed subjects on penturning forums.
I scour my tubes with 60 grit sandpaper by hand and glue in with 5 min. epoxy. I make sure there is complete coverage. Any excess inside tubes I dig out with a knife point. If I plan on glueing a number of blanks up in one sitting, I'll use 30 min. epoxy.
 
5 min epoxy...sand your tubes first....don't overheat while sanding (heat will soften epoxy).

And come on guys, there cant be anything easier than using a Postit or old library file cards and a finishing nail. Toothpicks can break as can splintersof wood. I have yet to break a nice finishing nail (and they are relatively cheap).
 
Originally posted by ilikewood
<br />And come on guys, there cant be anything easier than using a Postit or old library file cards and a finishing nail. Toothpicks can break as can splintersof wood. I have yet to break a nice finishing nail (and they are relatively cheap).
Click to expand...

Bill,

I fully agree and keep a roll of wax paper and wooden coffee stir sticks in the shop for just that purpose. [:)][:)]
 
What kind of glue is always interesting, but what I wanted to contribute is what I use to plug the tubes to keep glue out. I think I even got this from this forum. I slice potatoes about 1/8" think and just use the tubes to punch out holes in the slice on a piece of glass. The little potato plug keeps excess glue out just fine. Then it dries up and falls out on it's own. Potatoes are cheap!

Now if others read this will it spark a debate on baking vs. red vs. Idaho vs. slice carrots? For the record I use whatever won't be missed when we fix dinner along with Gorilla glue (usually, sometimes two-part epoxy, never CA after a few disasters). However, the suggestions of duct tape and flour/water paster are worth investigating! [;)]
 
Originally posted by woodwish
<br /> For the record I use whatever won't be missed when we fix dinner along with Gorilla glue (usually, sometimes two-part epoxy, never CA after a few disasters). [;)]
Click to expand...

Gorilla glue for dinner? How do you serve it? Baked? Broiled? Uncooked? [:D][:D][}:)][}:)]
 
I like to use q-tips as an applicator. I drop a couple drops of ca onto the tip and hit it with accelerator and I've got just about the perfect size applicator. I use CA mostly because I can't remember to plan ahead.[B)]
I will use epoxy as well as GG depending...
 
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