How to bleach black palm

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mrmartyking

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I saw a stunning pen done in bleached black palm. I am wondering the best way to bleach the wood. I am planning on turning the pen to slightly oversize then bleaching for the right color. Then rinse and dry thoroughly. Anybody have any lessons learned on this topic? Thanks.
 
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Wood is usually bleached with oxylic acid. Depending on the wood, the penetration may not be very deep so be very close to final dimensions and plan on some grain lift.

Have not done black palm, but have bleached wood -- use gloves and eye protection. Rinse with a baking soda solution to make sure acid does not remain behind.
 
I have not tried bleaching black palm. But I did a bleached wenge. Here is link --> Bleached Wenge - A Penturner's Paradise

I saw a stunning pen done in bleached black palm. I am wondering the best way to bleach the wood. I am planning on turning the pen to slightly oversize then bleaching for the right color. Then rinse and dry thoroughly. Anybody have any lessons learned on this topic? Thanks.
 
I have never bleached a really dark wood, or done it for a pen. But when I was in my furniture making days, I made an ash table, and wanted it white (pickled?). I bought wood bleach at the local HomeDepot. It worked really well as a prep prior to the white stain. Motivated me to go through a pickling phase.

I need to dig up a piece of wenge, and give it a try. I know there still is some of the wood bleach in my garage.
 
About 7 years ago I bleached a lot of my wood turnings. I haven't done it since then, so the following is dated:

For bleaching wood, I found using the two part bleaches work much better than chlorox, pool chorine (stonger version of non-scented chloros), or oxalic acid. The two part bleaches are made by the user at time of use by combining lye and peroxide (if I remember correctly). Both at industrial strength. It doesn't have much of a shelf life once you mix the components.

I don't think you will find anybody that will ship two part bleach these days (but I might be wrong). If you have a local woodworking store, ask them about it.

The bleaching effect does not penetrate far into the wood in my experience. Turning oversized, bleaching and then turning to final size may not give you the results you want.

Ed
 
I have not tried bleaching black palm. But I did a bleached wenge. Here is link --> Bleached Wenge - A Penturner's Paradise

I saw a stunning pen done in bleached black palm. I am wondering the best way to bleach the wood. I am planning on turning the pen to slightly oversize then bleaching for the right color. Then rinse and dry thoroughly. Anybody have any lessons learned on this topic? Thanks.

Branden
I really like the way those blanks came out...very unique. Can I ask a few ??'s
Did you use regular laundry bleach?
How much did the grain raise afterwards?
How long did you wait to finish them?
Thanks
Bob
 
I had done this set for a PITH about 2 years ago with both bleached Wenge (right) and bleached Black Palm (left).

2011-12%20PITH%209508%20%28sm%29.jpg


2011-12%20PITH%209510%20%28sm%29.jpg


From my memory, the Black Palm took MUCH longer to bleach than the Wenge. I turn between centers without bushings, and just use digital calipers, so I turn the blanks to close to size, maybe .030 or so over final size, as the bleaching process will swell the wood a bit, so your nice smooth blanks will not be quite so smooth when bleaching is done. Also, the bleach will never penetrate enough to do it with square blanks unless you want to try vacuum or pressure, but you are also going to need to remove the bleach after it's done, which is going to make that difficult.

I just use a small tupperware container, put the blanks in it and add strait laundry bleach until the blanks are covered, and (with the lid on) stir the container every so often so there are no dead spots like where it touches the bottom of the container. The Wenge bleaches nearly completely in about 2 hours, but I think the Black Palm took overnight or maybe even longer. After I take them out of the bleach, I run them under warm water for a few minutes and then sit them on a paper towel on the window sill to dry for a few days. After it is good and dry, drop it back on the lathe and finish it. Remember you've only got a little bit left to take off. The more you have to take off, the more likely you are to take it down beyond the penetration of the bleach. You should be able to take the turning down to within the amount you usually sand to, especially with Black Palm, I generally sand as little as possible as the dark parts are SOOOO dense and the light parts are SOOOOO soft, that too much sanding will cause the soft areas to erode away from the dark areas...

Good luck, and have fun... it is a fantastic look for these interesting woods...
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Your wenge and black palm pens were the ones that I admired and consequently am trying to create something similar.
 
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