How to Attack This?

[vtgaryw]

At my last show before Christmas, one of the other nearby crafters brought me in a nice big chunk from a plum tree. I've made blanks from downed wood before, but it was always either from a very manageable branch or an easily split piece that I could cut up on my 12" band saw.

She said this has been down for 2 months. How should I proceed? Seal the ends and let it dry before I do anything? Try splitting it (doesn't look like it will split too easily?) The heartwood looks like it will have a beautiful coloring to it.

Gary

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

It doesn't appear that it's checked or split. That, plus it is crotch pear wood leads me to thinking it might be a rather nice bowl blank. If you're not into that, it looks like it might be manageable on a band saw, but would probably need some kind of support frame/jig to keep it from twisting.

 

[1080Wayne]

If it has been down for 2 months I suspect sealing it now will not reduce crack formation by much . Splitting it will cost you some of the nice crotch wood . I would try a good crosscut handsaw to halve it , or a friendly neighbour with a chain saw . Then , I would seal the ends .

 

[keithbyrd]

Remember that fruit wood is prone to checking and cracking. As Ted said it could be a good bowl blank from the crotch area. If you wnt to try that there are several options: trim the cut ends off and reseal teh cut ends. ALso I might cut the crotch in half - lengthwise and reseal.
If you don't want to try the bowl route there are lots of options but you could get some really cool pen blanks out of the crotch! But you will want to seal or soak in DNA

 

[vtgaryw]

I do have a chains saw, so that sounds like the best way for an initial attack.

I don't do a lot of bowls, but I have been thinking of making a few lately, so this might be a good piece to get some from.

I hadn't heard of soaking in DNA. What's that do?

Thanks,

Gary

 

[nativewooder]

I would seal both ends twice and put the piece away for a year or two or three.

 

[KenV]

Rule of thumb is to get rid of the pith to minimize cracking. Fruit wood including plum loves to crack. Being a crotch the opportunity to crack goes up. So split it vertical through the pith -- coat the ends (I like the wax emulsions) and wait a bit for the stresses to take the course --

You will likely get splits, but not as many.

Green turned bowls are good -- but once you start - you need to go to completion or you will get cracks. The wood will move as you turn so you cannot go back and redo --

 

[keithbyrd]

DNA is used to force moisture out of the wood and dry quickly. What I do is turn a bowl to say 3/4" thick. Put in in a tub with DNA for 24-48 hours. It forces the water out and the wood absorbs the DNA (DeNatured Alcohol). After 24-48 hours I put the bowl in a paper bag with shavings and let it set for a few days. Check the moisture content by using a moisture meter or weighing it every day or two. When it quits losing weight its dry! Put it back on the lathe and turn again. Be careful because the drying process will undoubtedly allow the wood to move so it won't be perfectly round.
I have done this with pen blanks too but they rarely need it because the moisture evaporates quickly when turned so thin!