How do you do it?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
ladycop322

ladycop322

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2013
Messages
961
Location
South Florida
I was wondering, for those of you who make watch parts pens, what is your method for bending the faces over the brass/painted tubes? I currently use rounded needle nose pliers (something like that) but I end up turning the edges too much and the center, not enough!

Any suggestions on how to make it more 'flat' with the tube?

Thanks all!

Have a wonderful Thursday...

and by the way, I got this tattoo (on a whim) this past week while in Tampa with my honey! We went to the Panthers/Lightening game and while there explored Ybor City. The tattoo represents the infinity symbol with a heart and dog pawprints (for my late dog, China). I miss her terribly.
 

Attachments

  • infinity.jpg
    infinity.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 220
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have not done one yet, but I have seen people do it with a swage block, or a dapper block. It is a block of metal, or wood sometimes, that has different diameter notches on it, that you pound the part into, with a transfer punch.
 
There are many utube videos and also there are many threads on this. You may have to search within the thread to find out some different methods. The basic concept is to have a mold of some sort. Some people just drill a block of wood with the size drill bit used in the kit. Then they cut the block in half. You now have a form. Lay your parts in the form and use one of those transfer punches that are used for disassemble of pens to press the part in the form. You want to use the proper size which would correspond to the size of the drill bit used. If you have a press you can use that or you can use a drill press and just put a block between the transfer punch and the chuck on the DP. Some parts can be bent by hand using this method so a gentle push with your thumb on the punch can work. Others are harder materials.

That is the hardest part of the blank. Then glue your parts on as you see fit. The kit used must have enough shoulder space to accommodate all the part thicknesses when turned so that is important. As I said do a search here and you will get more answers.
 
A swage block is what you need, some times confused with a dapping block. Dapping blocks have dome shapes in them. Its a block of steel with semicircular grooves of different sizes machined in. I use old drill bit shafts or transfer punches to press the parts into the grooves.

Pic shows a combined dapping and swage block.
 

Attachments

  • Swage Block.jpg
    Swage Block.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 234
I have a dapple, but was told I had to 'heat' the faces in order for them to bend..???...??? Then after the heating, I would need to polish. Does this sound right?
 
Them meant you have to heat them hot enough to anneal them,(make them soft), this will discolor them and they will need repolishing before mounting on the blank tube. I dont think you need to do that to make them work. Just bend them as stated above.
 
ladycop322 said:
I have a dapple, but was told I had to 'heat' the faces in order for them to bend..???...??? Then after the heating, I would need to polish. Does this sound right?
Click to expand...

No. They are thin enough. Now if you use ones with enamel or other platings they may crack. Ebay is your friend. Buy a whole bunch of cheap watches and play around. I learned my lesson on a pen I started working on that heat does not play well with painted surfaces. If the numbers are painted on you can kiss that blank good-bye. :) Some of the metal parts in the watch will not bend well. Some maybe too thick also so be careful. The links that someone supplied to utube is a good one. He shows most of what is needed.
 
I use a block of aluminum that I drilled with the bits that exactly match my tubes. I then cut the block in half giving me 2 mold blocks. These hold up a bit better than wood. I use transfer punches as other have mentioned along with a dead blow mallet to form the piece. I only heat the parts that are hardened, usually the shiny silver parts, but not all. I put all my annealed (heated) parts in vibratory case polisher with an aggressive media and liquid compound.
 
The one advantage with hard wood (such as maple), (and I will use UHMW plastics when I start doing mine for this reason) is you do not scratch the face. For what I will be doing it is important.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom