How do I pick a good road bike (the kind you pedal)?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
GouletPens

GouletPens

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
1,449
Location
Ashland, VA
I did mountain biking in college (mountains) and now I live near only roads (not mountains). I really can't mountain bike anymore so I'm looking to sell my bike and get a road bike instead, but they can be WAAAAY pricey. I'm really just looking for something to ride maybe 20-30 miles a week to help keep some pounds off, nothing competitive at all. I'm hoping to sell my mountain bike for $200 or so and maybe get a road bike for $300-400, is that unrealistic? I'm 6'2", all legs and the bikes I've seen on craigslist are all for shorties, not giants like myself.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
You may be able to find a good used Road Bike for that price. But, anymore they sell for $500 to $600 for the basic model. I manage a bike shop for a living. And Road Bike prices have gone through the roof. PM me if you need more help, or just post here.
 
If you are not near any mountains, the market for your bike might be a little limited??

Another possibility would be to buy a set of hybrid tires for your bike and just ride it on the road. You might also need to change a cog or two on your cassette to get a more appropriate gearing; but, then again, you might not.

Another thing you might want to consider is "OFF-ROAD" riding. Many city, county and state parks have off-road trails and there may be some close to you that you don't know about because you just haven'tr inquired.

The Richmond Area Bicycling Association has a P/O. Box for its treasurer in Ashland. maybe you could contact those folks and see what options are available to you. If nothing else, the association might be another market for your bike and a source for a doad bike for you??

http://www.raba.org/Pedalers/PedalerApril05web.pdf
 
Last edited:
I have a Giant FCR-1 which I love. I'm 6'3" and I got the extra tall size. It was about $950 a couple years ago. There are also FCR-2 and FCR-3 models which are less expensive. I ride 30-50 miles a week.
 
The mountain bike I have is a Giant and I've loved it. I posted a wanted thing on CL in Richmond and I got a couple of guys saying they have large road bike frames, but I'd have to build the rest. I'm considering it, but I don't know if I'll have the time (or money?) to build a bike from scratch.
 
I agree with Steve, check your local bike shop bulletin boards for used bikes or consignments through the shop. You'll be able to get much better bang for the buck that way. It went years making bike parts but never had a great bike. I finally just recently got one of the LiquiGas team bikes used in the Tour de France, and holy smokes! what a difference! It was very expensive though. Some of thesame good stuff like brake lever shifting, stiff frame, ergonomic handlebars and other goodies might be able to be found on one of those used bikes.
 
I ride 80 miles per week (if the weather is good) on an $89 MTB that I purchased from K-Mart about 6 years ago.

My "biking snob" friend was snickering at the fact my bike weighed nearly 50 pounds and his weighed 32. I pointed out to him that I was "ONLY" interested in the exercise value of the bike and I could get a lot more exercise value per mile out of my 50 lb. bike that he did out of his 32 lb. bike. The time I save by having to push around a heavier bike and burning more calories per mile can be put to good use in other areas.

He has quite making comments about my "clunker!!":rolleyes:
 
Randy_ said:
I ride 80 miles per week (if the weather is good) on an $89 MTB that I purchased from K-Mart about 6 years ago.

My "biking snob" friend was snickering at the fact my bike weighed nearly 50 pounds and his weighed 32. I pointed out to him that I was "ONLY" interested in the exercise value of the bike and I could get a lot more exercise value per mile out of my 50 lb. bike that he did out of his 32 lb. bike. The time I save by having to push around a heavier bike and burning more calories per mile can be put to good use in other areas.

He has quite making comments about my "clunker!!":rolleyes:
Click to expand...


HA! That's some A+ reasoning!
 
Depends on how you ride. My 15 pound bike works me a lot harder than my old 21 pound bike ever could. Over 95% of the drag on a bike is aerodynamic drag. It's also a cube function so just going a little faster means it takes a lot more energy. I was somewhat surprised when I worked on the Olympic bikes how heavy they were. They weren't worried about weight but aerodynamics were key. They got rid of the top tube and seat stays and had downtubes, seatpost, and handlebars in carbon fiber airfoils. They weighed in at around 17 pounds, which for a track bike was quite a bit.
 
btboone said:
Depends on how you ride. My 15 pound bike works me a lot harder than my old 21 pound bike ever could. Over 95% of the drag on a bike is aerodynamic drag. It's also a cube function so just going a little faster means it takes a lot more energy. I was somewhat surprised when I worked on the Olympic bikes how heavy they were. They weren't worried about weight but aerodynamics were key. They got rid of the top tube and seat stays and had downtubes, seatpost, and handlebars in carbon fiber airfoils. They weighed in at around 17 pounds, which for a track bike was quite a bit.
Click to expand...
I have no doubt that your math is correct, Bruce; but since most of us are not riding at Tour de France speeds the issue of aerodynamics is probably not a major issue. In my particular case, my buddy and I are off-road riders (paved and unpaved) trails so bike weight is much more of a consideration than is aero.

btboone said:
.....I was somewhat surprised when I worked on the Olympic bikes how heavy they were. They weren't worried about weight but aerodynamics were key......They weighed in at around 17 pounds, which for a track bike was quite a bit.
Click to expand...
Saying the Olympic bike builders wern't worried about weight is probably stretching the truth a little. I doubt anyone who is riding a $500 to $1000 road bikes has one that weighs only 17 lbs. Weight "IS" obviously a factor. As I recall, you used to make premium bike parts for a while and made them out of titanium. I'm thinking that use of titanium was for the purpose of saving weight and not because it was more areo than other materials.
 
Last edited:
Personally, I like the single speed. I have a Langster, that has since been converted to a fixed gear and now is just under 15 lbs. But a single speed is really nice, a good workout since you can not go into the super easy gears, and very low mainenance.

As far as weight being factors on high end bikes or racing style. Depends on the need for the bike. The tour de france racers all have seperate bikes for separate parts, like super light bikes for the uphill stretches. If you ever see a TT bike they are anything but light, but all aero so they cut through the air.
 
>Saying the Olympic bike builders wern't worried about weight is probably stretching the truth a little. I doubt anyone who is riding a $500 to $1000 road bikes has one that weighs only 17 lbs. Weight "IS" obviously a factor. As I recall, you used to make premium bike parts for a while and made them out of titanium. I'm thinking that use of titanium was for the purpose of saving weight and not because it was more areo than other materials.
__________________

I'm saying they were not as concerned with weight as I thought they would be. They used steel clamping devices in the seatposts and handlebars, solid aluminum paddle like cranks, a normal leather seat, solid chainring, bulky handlebars, and other stuff where they could have saved a few pounds if they wanted to. They had me make the original bottom brackets from steel, and I convinced them to go with titanium there.

Weight is definitely a factor for me. My bike is all carbon fiber including seatposts and handlebars and pedals and cost several thousand dollars. My point was instead of getting a cheap and heavy bike, I would recommend going with a lighter and higher tech bike if he can find one. Only going a couple miles per hour faster can essentially double the power required, so you have a nice efficient bike when you want to enjoy the ride, or can easily put out the effort for the extra exercise when you want to do that. It doesn't take much of an increase of speed because the aerodynamics (or lack of it on a human body) makes a lot more difference than any other factor. I find that I ride considerably harder on a better built bike. It inspires a lot more confidence, and I just enjoy the bike a lot more. When you want it, it's like getting free energy, but when you want to burn calories, it doesn't take much increase in speed to do 1300 watt sprints.

I say get a better bike and you can enjoy both.
 
I got into cycling a few years back and quickly got hooked on both riding and watching it (some spring Sundays/and the TdF on the VS. channel).

Almost any legitimate road bike built in the last 7 years will be <20lbs. The most important thing is the fit of the bike. You need to make sure you get the right size frame. I would recommend going to your local bike shop to get measured/fitted, and then take that info shopping with you. Generally speaking, you want to stand over the bike and have about 2" between you and top of the top tube. But, there are other important measurements to consider (reach, legs, flexibility). Once you find a bike, have a good shop (if you bought it used) fit you to the bike (seat, stem, etc). It's worth every penny. The right fit will prevent injury, make you more comfortable, and make you more efficient. Fit is key.

I bought an entry level Trek 1000 which has been great (Al frame, carbon fork/seatpost). In the summer, I ride 100+miles a week, and can highly recommend that bike. I know they come in larger frame sizes, too.

I love talking bikes. PM me if you have any questions.
 
cbatzi01 said:
I got into cycling a few years back and quickly got hooked on both riding and watching it (some spring Sundays/and the TdF on the VS. channel).

Almost any legitimate road bike built in the last 7 years will be <20lbs. The most important thing is the fit of the bike. You need to make sure you get the right size frame. I would recommend going to your local bike shop to get measured/fitted, and then take that info shopping with you. Generally speaking, you want to stand over the bike and have about 2" between you and top of the top tube. But, there are other important measurements to consider (reach, legs, flexibility). Once you find a bike, have a good shop (if you bought it used) fit you to the bike (seat, stem, etc). It's worth every penny. The right fit will prevent injury, make you more comfortable, and make you more efficient. Fit is key.

I bought an entry level Trek 1000 which has been great (Al frame, carbon fork/seatpost). In the summer, I ride 100+miles a week, and can highly recommend that bike. I know they come in larger frame sizes, too.

I love talking bikes. PM me if you have any questions.
Click to expand...

There is only one issue with your logic, here. PRICE. He isn't going to find a bike like that for $300 bucks. Raleigh make a road bike that sell for around $500 bucks. Only think is, it is heavy by industry standards, even at that price. Most of the Road bikes I sell are Schwinn and they start at 24 pounds and get lighter from there. Most shops have a Layaway plan. If you want a better bike, then this would be one way to get a better bike and you don't have to shell it out all at once.
 
Well here's my real problem...I'm a big guy! I used to mountain bike in college which worked out well b/c I have a lot of power and my weight helped me going downhill..but in road riding it does me harm. I'm 6'2" and 245lbs....I have huge broad shoulders and a 48" chest. It's like riding a bike with a refridgerator on your back! I'm about as aerodynamic as a mac truck. I pretty much know I don't have a prayer of ever doing any road riding beyond my personal enjoyment, so for me to drop $1000+ on a bike is not only impractical but unrealistic since my wife and I have a baby on the way. I live out in the country and not near any kind of gym....I'm not in a neighborhood so running's not really an option. Pretty much biking is my only option for practical exercise for me. Is there a solution you guys recommend for me to be comfortable riding on the road for maybe 15-20 miles a week that won't break the bank? Keep in mind, I have a mountain bike I could sell for probably $200-250, and maybe $100-200 in cash (if the wife even lets me have that much) is about my limit, no matter what the benefits.

I've considered just changing out my tires for more road-worthy tires since the super-knobby ones I have on there now are about the opposite of what I need! It'd be REALLY great if I could get a spare set of rims and tires so I can easily swap out road tires for knobby tires, but that's going to be hard to work out with the disk brakes and all. Even still, might that be my best option?
 
Brian, I have and older mtn bike ('90 Specialized rock hopper). I put some modifications into it several years ago with v brakes, new shifters and an extra set of rims with road slicks. I love the road slicks! I don't know if you have a good bike shop nearby that would work with you but a couple of those fine pens could grease the way to some good deals on some traded in rims and such. I now have a good bike for both road riding and mtn trail riding by just switching out the tires. Good luck, John
 
Road bike

Brian -

I have an older Specialized road bike that I picked up on eBay for about $200 shipped. It's a triple swaged steel frame and pretty large - they're rated in CM from the crank center to the top of the seat tube if I remember right. I think mine is something like 63 cm. 18 speed, higher end derailleurs, good brakes, good bars. I only replaced the seat and tires.

I think you can still do something like I did - take advantage of the "Kodak effect". You know, products are continually "improved" so your old brownie camera ain't good enough any more and you feel the need to upgrade. There's a point when you really don't need any more pixels.

Think about it - the bike that I have rides the same as it did when it was new. So what if there is a "better" more trick one available now. I'm not racing anybody -

I think it's a good idea to find a good bike shop and have them size a bike for you. Find out what size and style you want and then go shopping on line. There are tons of deals on "vintage" bikes out there.
 
I see $1,000 + bikes for sale on Craigs List every day for $200 and less.

BTW, regarding bike weight, the old saying goes something like - with a 15 pound bike, you'll need a 20 pound lock, a 25 pound bike will require a 5 pound lock and a 40 pound bike needs no lock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom