Hot/Cold Mug Sealer

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w5brw

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We went to the Sherwood Forest Faire:biggrin:, near Austin Texas, over the weekend and I saw some very well crafted mugs. They were turned mugs with what looked like epoxied on handles. I asked several different vendors what the finish was and got several answers. From a 2 part plastic (she told me it was a trade secret and all I needed to know was it was food safe:confused:) to 2 coats of sanding sealer and a coat of varnish.

So I ask all Ye Here...

Anyone make these, and if so what is a good coating for both cold and hot liquid safe? I don't want to mass produce or steal any secrets, but would like to take a crack at making my own design for fun.
 
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I was told once that ANY finish, once it cures is food safe. Not saying it is true, just saying that is what I was told by one of my Woodcraft store guys.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm going to try the 2-part epoxy this weekend and maybe a CA finish. Do the soak in (mineral oil, etc) ever really cure. I was afraid if hot liquid was placed in the mug, it would soften that finish and release some nasty tasting stuff into the brew.
 
nativewooder said:
We have been drinking and eating out of wooden containers for thousands of years.
Click to expand...

True,
But most of those haven't been segmented, glued together with modern glues, and meant to stay pretty for a long time.

If I was turning a solid piece it wouldn't matter near as much...

Buford
 
I've also heard from quite a few people over the years that all finishes are food safe when fully cured. I don't know if this is true or not.

That being said, I use an FDA approved product for use in food contact situations where heat might be an issue. The FDA approval (if you go and read the technical standards) means that all of the individual ingredients are safe for use in food contact and or food preparation usage.

It is an epoxy and it is fairly easy to use, although it is rather viscous (thick) and should be thinned slightly, or the surface must be specially prepared to allow for good adhesion to the surface.

Take a look at this: McMaster-Carr

If anyone wants additional info on using this, let me know and I'll be happy to assist in any way that I can.

Also, since this is a 'trade secret', this posting will self destruct with the force of a small tactical nuclear device after being read.
 
Most modern finishes, when fully cured, are non-toxic. Lots of discussion on this (keeps coming up) with toy makers, rattle turners, and cutting block folks.

Key = "when fully cured"
A lot of modern finishes include 'quickeners' that are toxic (e.g., the 'boiled' in BLO).
So, 2-weeks ? for polyurethane I think
 
Yes, I've used it in the microwave. No problems with occasional use, but I don't know what long term microwave usage might do. It would be a good thing to test. I tell customers that rewarming in the oven is the most they should do.

I buy the one pound size and get pretty good coverage out of it, particularly once it is thinned.

Fibonacci said:
Interesting.

Any idea if it is microwaves safe?

Also, how far for 1.4 ounces go?
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I guess that begs the question if that is 1.4 fluid ounces or 1.4 weight ounces.

How do you apply it? Mix, slather on, dry, polish?
 
It is by weight. I think all commercial/industrial epoxies are sold that way and the instructions typically tell you to weigh it when mixing rather than to use a volume measurement.

To apply it without thinning, I don't sand beyond 220 grit. This allows for some penetration into the surface. (We've all seen de-lamination of the pour on type of epoxy finishes. This is due to it just sitting on top of the surface with little or no penetration.)

My preferred method is to thin the catalyst (after weighing both components to assure that the ratio is correct) with either pure grain alcohol or lacquer thinner by 10 to 15%. Thinning beyond this amount will not yield a good result.

Of course, you can also use the old hot epoxy trick to thin it. Use the microwave a few seconds at a time to heat both components prior to mixing. Don't raise the temperature to the point where it is too hot to hold the container in your hand. Make sure there's good ventilation if you do this. I'd only do this with a dedicated shop microwave, unless you don't mind sleeping on the couch!

The real trick with any really thick finish is getting an even application on vertical surfaces. Gravity tends to be the biggest enemy. So, multiple thin coats works best.

When I get the time and space, I plan to build a rotating drying rig like the Moulthrops use. If you've never seen this, there's a link from their home page to the PBS documentary about them. It's worth the time to see how they work! I'm currently designing a smaller scale system to work for pens. I think it will reduce the amount of final sanding/buffing on my heavy build/high gloss finish.


Fibonacci said:
I guess that begs the question if that is 1.4 fluid ounces or 1.4 weight ounces.

How do you apply it? Mix, slather on, dry, polish?
Click to expand...
 
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