HF pressure pot clamp stripped

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TattooedTurner

TattooedTurner

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Just in time for the holiday rush! I have several blanks to cast and an extra day off, unfortunately one of the clamps stripped and after searching I've found it's a problem with them. I also learned that the part isn't available by itself anymore. I'll be replacing it with a CA technologies, but not until after Christmas. At least I have a small supply of blanks, but only two are large enough for mini bud vases, which are the bulk of what I need to make. I also have a fountain pen to make. I use Silmar so I'll be going to back to using vacuum to degas the resin and hope it works.
 
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Wce274 said:
How long have you had the pressure pot


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I got it in January, so about 10 months of no more than light to moderate use at best.

Wce274 said:
Also how big are the blanks for a mini bud vases


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I normally cast cylindrical blanks, about 2" diameter x 3.5" - 4.5" tall, but have made some with 1 9/16" diameter x 2.5" - 3" tall blanks. They're quick, fun little projects and have been a surprise hit for me.
 
I had one strip out, it took about 4 months on a fast boat from china to get a replacement. Order an extra, you won't ever need it, if you don't you will need it in 5 months.
 
TattooedTurner said:
J I use Silmar so I'll be going to back to using vacuum to degas the resin and hope it works.
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lots of new and experienced casters around but no one ever mentions this: The styrene in polyester resin will boil out at 28 inHg. When I used vacuum to degassing PR I never used over 27inHG for vacuum degassing PR just to be safe. Styrene is a thinning agent so having it boil off will thicken it. May or may not effect casting.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
TattooedTurner said:
Just in time for the holiday rush! I have several blanks to cast and an extra day off, unfortunately one of the clamps stripped and after searching I've found it's a problem with them. I also learned that the part isn't available by itself anymore. I'll be replacing it with a CA technologies, but not until after Christmas. At least I have a small supply of blanks, but only two are large enough for mini bud vases, which are the bulk of what I need to make. I also have a fountain pen to make. I use Silmar so I'll be going to back to using vacuum to degas the resin and hope it works.
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If I understand you correctly, the thread on the wing bolt or the thread on one of the swing arms stripped, right..?

If that is the case, and I have done this, you can cut the head of the wing bolt and get a new bolt slightly bigger than the original one, cut the head of the bold and weld the wing you just cut, this will make a new bolt with a slightly oversized diameter (1 to 2mm max) and then you cut a matching thread on the swing arm housing, I replaced all the 4 bolts and re-thread the housings of my older pressure, that thing worked hard so ware is natural.

It has been 3 or so years and it works perfect still...!

Cheers
George
 
I have a CA Tech pot that I purchased at the factory in Broomfield, CO. Our club set up a "shop tour" at the factory and we were allowed to purchase at dealer prices. Pot works great and is very well constructed, super heavy duty. Added a vacuum gauge and use it for both pressure and vacuum.
 
Replace or re-thread are the only options for you at this point. Thread repair helicoils could work, automotive supply stores or McMaster etc. have them. For all PP users - lightly oil the bolts periodically and do not tighten them past hand tight.
 
I've had this problem over the years and was able to reduce the wear and tear on them by rotating from clamp to clamp as I loosen them one turn at a time. When you remove one all the way it puts extra tension on the others causing them to bite in and rub against the threads more than normal. I gradually loosen them all a little at a time.

Not saying it's a fix because they are still cast metal threads and sometimes you just get a bad one. Usually my seal goes out before my threads. I try to salvage good parts from the old tanks as I replace them so I have backup parts for quick fixes in the future. I usually go through a HF tank every year but I don't mind that since they are affordable and not hundreds of dollars like others. That way I know I have a clean tank, fresh seal and new threads yearly. Maybe someday I'll try a more expensive tank but for now these work just fine and I use the heck out of them. Lol Just my opinion.
 
hanau said:
Couldn't put a nut on the bottom of the clamp and while holding the nut, thread a bolt in from the top and tighten it against the lid?
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I'm not sure there's enough clearance, but it might work. Finding one with the right threads that would fit may be a problem. Thanks for the idea.

JohnU said:
I've had this problem over the years and was able to reduce the wear and tear on them by rotating from clamp to clamp as I loosen them one turn at a time. When you remove one all the way it puts extra tension on the others causing them to bite in and rub against the threads more than normal. I gradually loosen them all a little at a time...
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I tighten and loosen 1/4 - 1/2 turn at a time, going from one to the other directly across from it. I could tell when I bought it the clamps were a weak point. The pot has worked well with no problems. At $80 with the 20% off coupon I can't complain too much, it works out to less than $2/week. I saved a lot more than that by casting my own blanks and I can pull the hardware off since I replaced all stock fittings and put it on the new one, so no extra money spent there.
 
ElMostro said:
Jay, send me a pic of the part you need. I have several decommissioned HF pots that I have kept for parts, I might have the part you need. Send pic to; esoto70431@aol.com
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Mad Scientist said:
I have some new harborfreight pot wing nuts and lid latch if u still need


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Not sure how I missed these replies. Thanks for the generous offer but I just bought a new one so problem solved, and I'll have spare parts for any future mishaps this way too.
 
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