HF Pot

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If the HF pots are scary to use for pressure, can't you use it for vacuum instead?
Will the results be the same, or am I nuts?

Yes, you're nuts...!:)

No, not really to both accounts, the results aren't the same and the pressure pots are only a problem if you do silly things with them, such as removing the pressure valve an then pumping them wit pressures that are far and beyond the factory recommendations...!

Most castings won't require anymore than 25 to 40 PSI, wood and resin are the ones that require the most pressure, only if the wood has plenty of small cracks and holes where pressure will assist the resin to reach them before it sets, apart from that, 25 PSI is sufficient. (exceptions to the rule may apply...!).

The HF fear, is considerably overrated, in my viey...!:wink:

Now, you mention "casting", stabilizing is a different "world", and industrial stabilizing set-ups can reach pressures of 5.000 PSI, pressure pots can stabilize but you would be a lot safer and less "stuffing around" by using our moderator Curtis's system...!

Good luck

Cheers
George
 
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I've found that my vacuum system works very very well when it comes to wood stabilization.
I use a HF pressure pot and fabricated a 1/2" plexiglass lid with three ports, one for the vacuum pump connection, a relief valve and the vacuum gauge. I can pull -30 in.Hg and my first tests resulted in a 3" square punky hunk of cherry fully penetrated by the resin mixture.
I've got another test piece curing right now that I'm going to turn this afternoon.
 
I have never had any issues with my HF pressure pot when using it for vacuum, and I WILL NEVER exceed the printed pressure limits. That label is there for a darned good reason.

Just in case the inexpensive pressure gauge goes bad on any of the lower cost pressure pots, well, my best advice would be to ALSO regulate the amount of air coming from your air compressor. Heck, that way you can do away with the gauge and eliminate the possible source for leaks.

Exceeding the pressure limits of any vessel is like playing with a grenade ... it is just a matter of time my friend. An implosion is an entirely different event than an explosion and depending on the tanks material one may be subject to bodily damage to a lesser degree.

Did you ever see any pictures of where someone left a filled SCUBA tank in their car and out in the hot sun? Not necessarily a brilliant move on their part IF and when the tank "explodes!" Again, it is only a matter of time ... :eek:
 
I've found that my vacuum system works very very well when it comes to wood stabilization.
I use a HF pressure pot and fabricated a 1/2" plexiglass lid with three ports, one for the vacuum pump connection, a relief valve and the vacuum gauge. I can pull -30 in.Hg and my first tests resulted in a 3" square punky hunk of cherry fully penetrated by the resin mixture.
I've got another test piece curing right now that I'm going to turn this afternoon.

How are you measuring your vacuum? Most guages are not accurate above about -28 in.Hg. What kind of vacuum pump are you using?
 
How are you measuring your vacuum? Most guages are not accurate above about -28 in.Hg. What kind of vacuum pump are you using?

This is quite true since it is impossibly to pull a 30" Hg vacuum, even in the perfect laboratory setting! The theoretical maximum vacuum at sea level is 29.92" Hg. However, as you say, typical dial gauges are inaccurate at deeper vacuum. I have one gauge that will display 30" at full, deep vacuum and I am about 1,000' above sea level. For every 1,000', you loose 1" Hg of vacuum so in my location, the maximum theoretical vacuum is 28.92" Hg!
 
Never to be one to go the cheapest route. When I was a race car crew chief the tool box was full of Snap-On hand tools. You can really tell the difference in your hand. All I ever hear about is be careful putting preassure in a HF pot. At work we have a steam boiler that runs at 100 psi all day long without a worry but it is designed to. So getting to my question if you want to do casting and compress the bubbles with preasure where do you buy a device that will do it without without worrying about it?
 
Never to be one to go the cheapest route. When I was a race car crew chief the tool box was full of Snap-On hand tools. You can really tell the difference in your hand. All I ever hear about is be careful putting preassure in a HF pot. At work we have a steam boiler that runs at 100 psi all day long without a worry but it is designed to. So getting to my question if you want to do casting and compress the bubbles with preasure where do you buy a device that will do it without without worrying about it?

Binks 83C-210 A.S.M.E. certified to 80 psi working pressure. It will cost around $450 or so but the extra price is worth it in pace of mind for me, at least.
 
If all you want to do is cast PR, you don't need a PP. I have never used one and I don't get any bubbles.
 
If all you want to do is cast PR, you don't need a PP. I have never used one and I don't get any bubbles.

I've found I can get way more silver and gold leaf in my resin without trapped air in the metal flakes with pressure. Straight colors or swirls don't need it.

Casting cloth, I found it to be nearly impossible without pressure.
 
If all you want to do is cast PR, you don't need a PP. I have never used one and I don't get any bubbles.

I've found I can get way more silver and gold leaf in my resin without trapped air in the metal flakes with pressure. Straight colors or swirls don't need it.

Casting cloth, I found it to be nearly impossible without pressure.


Just a matter of technique...:wink:
 
Thanks Curtis for the recomnedation. $400 bucks is not much when you compair the cost of a serious ER room visit.
 
Sometimes, you can find the Binks pots on Craig's list, E-Bay and yes, even at your local pawn shop for under $100. All of these pots have 80 psi WORKING pressure.

Motorcyclists with worthless heads wear $5 helmets to comply with the law. Smart motorcyclist, who realize that motorcycle riding can be dangerous, buy the very best equipment available.

If you are doing enough casting and stabilization that you "need" a pot, you should think of it as buying a quality tool that will NOT endanger your life when using the tool.
 
If you install a pop of valve so the psi can only get so high get a valve that is set for around 60 psi and if you go over 60 it will pop off.
 
If you install a pop of valve so the psi can only get so high get a valve that is set for around 60 psi and if you go over 60 it will pop off.

While pop-off valves are certainly necessary, please do not fall into a false sense of security with one. They a notorious about getting gummed up, even just from the dust in the shop, and do not always work. If you are going to rely on a pop-off valve as your safety measure, please pull the ring under pressure and test it regularly.

Also, a pop-off valve will work but it will not prevent a catastrophic failure at the pressure below the pop-off valve rating if the pot is of poor quality and decides to go.

I have directly experienced a pressure pot failure and I assure you, it is no fun and will scare the hell out of you if you are lucky enough to not be near it. Fortunately, I was. Granted, my failure was most likely due to some modification I made but it is still a very serious matter and not to be taken lightly.

Every time you pressurize your pot, you are creating a bomb in your shop. Personally, I prefer to trust my bomb to American made and certified instead of Chinese made at the cheapest price and quality possible. Remember the lead paint on children's toys, baby formula, and dog food issues just to mention a few!
 
that binks on ebay went for $225 but it looked new most on ebay look really beat

i ended up returning my hf unit which appeared ok and it did hold pressure for a few hours but i didnt trust it. since then i have been keeping an eye on craigslist and finally found one for $75 which looks good so they are out there if you keep checking craigslist each day

blessings
craig
 
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