Help with Stamp blanks

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Edward Cypher

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Feb 8, 2011
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Denver, Colorado
I have tried to make stamp blanks on sierra tubes and have had nothing but failures. I glue them on with glue stick glue (Elmers) photo quality, then spray with clear UV acrylic spray let dry for a week or longer. Then into Fred's silicone molds, using similar 41 heated in H2O math add catalyst then pour. Pop all bubbles and things look great then leave set when I check in the morning I have a ton of bubbles and bubbles trails that go all the way to the tube on top the bottom of the tube seems to be bubble free. So I have read that some paint the tube with PR before they pour. My question is how do you get under the tube and is this catalyzed PR or uncatalyzed Pr. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I tried to make some Vietnam ribbon stamp blanks for memorial day for the VFW and they all came out crappy to say the least. Lost all the blanks and only have 3 days to get a few done. Help.

Thanks in advance.
 
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The few I have done, I used modge podge as a top coat over the stamps. I let them dry 24 hours before casting, and they came out perfect. With the amount of bubbles you say you're getting, I wonder if the air is escaping from the tube. You might try filling the tube with puddy or play doh to eliminate that possibility.

Good luck. And you can get modge podge from Michaels or most any craft store.
 
My opinion is your bubbles are coming from the paper stamps. When you spray them, it seals the ink from bleeding but it may not seal the edges of the paper stamps, allowing air in the paper to expel as they soak up resin. I've had ok luck with a couple layers of CA after I spray the blank. (with a day of drying between and after the process) I say OK because I've had issues with some stamps smearing from the CA. I now stay clear of that brown moth stamp. Smears every time! Unfortunately I don't make a lot of stamp pens so hopefully others will post more options.
 
I have only done a few, I used PPA (Perfect Paper Adhesive) it was made for US ArtQuest according to the label. I used it to glue the stamps down and as a clear sealant over the top. Since it's virtually all I can get around here I used PR from Michaels.
I put a thin coat of uncatalyzed PR over the tubes then after adding the catalyst to the PR I warmed it in a dish of hot water to thin it out then gently poured it into the mold. I poured it on to the wall between the two tubes allowing the molds to slowly fill from the bottom. I'm not positive why but I think the wet uncatalyzed PR allows the catalyzed PR to stick to the tubes without forming bubbles. No pressure pot or vacuum system used.
Here's a pen showing how it turned out. First pen on the page, just hold your mouse pointer over the image for a larger view. http://www.undergroundwoodworking.ca/sie.html
 
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The raw PR on the stamp will soak in and expel any air from the paper...if given long enough to soak into the paper.

A "trail of bubbles leading to the the tube": I assume you mean to the ends of the tubes. Air coming from the ends of the stamps is a possibility as John mentioned. Also, as the PR cures it gets hot heating the air inside the tubes. Hot air expands. It is possible that air is escaping the tubes. Be sure the silicone plugs are nice and tight in the ends of the tubes and the plugs are still nice and smooth on the surface with no nicks or small cuts.

Sealing with CA as John mentioned is also a good idea but do wait and allow the CA to cure before casting.

Good luck and I hope your problems are solved soon. I HATE failures.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
I paint the tubes with nail polish before applying stamps. A single coat is enough, and may not be necessary, but it is what I do and keeps the brass tube from shining through if I am not perfect in everything else I do.

New stamps with pressure sensitive adhesive I apply directly to the painted tube. I quickly seal with a coat of Walmart yellow and black mini tube CA.

Older "lick and stick" type stamps I use a coat of Mod Podge to glue the stamps on. Glue stick is probably a better alternative - I intend to try it next batch. After allowing time to dry, I seal with CA.

My seal with CA is on the lathe, at about 2000 rpm, same speed I do everything else but drill, as I have a belt swapper, not variable speed. After it has all dried, I will go back and check for loose spots, and glue them down with a mini drop of CA.

A couple hours dry time seems sufficient before casting; a few minutes on any touch-up.

Your trail of bubbles is most likely from the stopper not being tight in the tube, as others have said. Fred has a link to a youtube video he has made on his site, showing how to adjust the stoppers in the mold for use with a pressure pot. Watch the video and d it for every casting, pressure pot or not.

The video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vy5kIr9whWE
 
i used Modge Podge from Michael's then CA glue in past. Glued to blank and also coated the stamps with it. Only did one or two but they came out OK. Biggest mistake was not turning down the wood beyond the bushings to account for the thickness of the Modge Podge and the stamps. I noticed that there is a High Gloss Modge Podge. Might look into that.
 
Thanks to all who commented I will try all of them one at a time. Once again thanks it was just so depressing I was really hoping to have Vietnam ribbon pens for the guys at the VFW. They might have to wait a few weeks but they will get them. Thanks again.
 
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