Need some help with my Chiyogami blanks, specifically with gluing the paper onto the tube.
I tried with Mod Podge. I had problems getting the paper to stick at the seam and ended up working the paper so much it got dull and blurred in places. I also ended up with issues of the paper not being tight to the tube all the way around. I have never used Mod Podge before, so I may be doing something wrong there. The good news is I cast and turned it just for the heck of it and the side of the tube that was not overworked looked great. I want to try another with CA and see if I have better luck.
In the meantime, is anyone willing to share their secrets to gluing the paper to the tube? Also, how do you do the seam? Straight cut? Overlap?
Thanks
I can tell you that this paper has an interesting track record. The biggest problem is this is a high moisture paper; add to the fact this paper is made with water based gum which holds the fibers together; then on top of that it's heat retention properties when using natural materials, if they use artificial materials the retention is not there.
Also I would like to throw in the the makers of Mod Podge states to wait FOUR (4) weeks before doing any casting or top coating, to allow for proper drying time. Mod Podge is a water based product and you are putting that on top of a water based, water retaining material. If you do not believe this then call them and ask.
Contact Plaid Enterprises Customer Service: 1-800-842-4197 M-F 8am - 5pm EST (If anyone is curious then the answer is Yes I did call them about this product, this week in fact.)
How long does it take my Mod Podge project to cure? | Plaid Enterprises
Q: How long does it take my Mod Podge project to cure?
A: With a medium coat of Mod Podge, the project should cure in about 2 to 3 weeks. Allow for longer curing times if applying more or thicker coats.
I was told the FOUR (4) week cure time was under IDEAL conditions and it would not hurt to wait LONGER.
Next I would like to say that this material is very reactive. It does SHIFT when the moisture content changes. So, what does this mean? This means that your glue must be strong enough to hold it in place and prevent it from moving. Standard CA does *NOT* fit the bill, the paper can pull loose esp with the change in moisture content. Agents like anaerobic epoxy's and marine grade epoxy's is likely going to hold better, something in the non-flexible flavors. Also as a top coat over the paper you want something to saturate the paper and hold it, preventing movement. If you are casting over top of this paper and the paper changes state, i.e. lower moisture content, the paper will pull loose from the casting and leave very visible air bubbles. I strongly suspect that E-30CL will be the goto glue for this paper.
You also want some type of sealer for the ends of the tube. That is correct, seal the ends of the tube. This will slow down moisture movement. Also when turning the tube, i.e. cleaning/trimming/dressing/facing the ends, you want to re-seal the ends to prevent this problem. Failure to re-seal the ends can easily result in air pockets between the paper and the casting.
This is what we are dealing with on this paper. As you can see from the layout the wick effect is likely expanded.
As for cutting the paper I see time and time again seams. Regardless of who claims "seamless" it still sticks out like a sore thumb when I look at them. Very rarely do I not see the seam. When rotating the blank the end jumps out at you as there is a shelf. To prevent this tapering the end in a V shape would help greatly, or simply do not over lap the paper. As for cutting in any specific shape that should be left up to the pattern to decide, oh and cut around the pattern as that's one of the biggest problems I see. The pattern gets broken and that alone sticks out like a sore thumb.
